As the lines are under no great pressure swaged connectors are way over the top. As suggested a suitable fix would be a length of hose connected to both metal pipes at either end. I know the pipe coming from the transmission is 12.7mm ie 0.5 inch OD. There are plenty of places to cut this pipework.
The radiator ends are somewhat more difficult I think. The top connector can't be seen and I assume pipework is same size. The bottom connector looks to be the problem, namely access to it.

 

Can you cut the pipes with one of those compact plumbing pipe cutters?
I wouldn't use a saw unless you can remove the assembly and clean it after cutting.

It's odd to me that these swaged fittings are failing like this.

 

I would assume a standard plumbers pipe cutter (wheel type) would work far better than a hack saw.

 

They make much more compact ones than that. More of a tubing cutter about 1.5" cube shaped. That's a lot easier to spin around the pipe when it's in place but will it cut the plated steel pipe used on these hoses?

 

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I like where this thread is going! Anytime we can construct a reliable work-around to a problem, all the better.

After playing around with trying to remove the lines, I believe that this could be easily done as long as the new joints are in the right location.

Bogart, as for the bottom connector, once the splash shield is off, there is a little gap within the subframes that perfectly allows access for a 3/4" wrench to turn the bottom connector off. Took a while & a few swears to find, but once I did, it was a cinch.

I found a mini tube cutter & flaring tool kit (pic below), that if the tubes were bubble flared then sleeved with a hose, we should have a properly reconstructed line.

If anyone is bored, here is the manual to the flaring kit.

Also, I saw a used set of lines on ebay #140344795984, that someone could try with. They don't ship up north, so I can't buy these.

Note: Joycesjag, thanks for getting this talk started, I was done beating my head under the car trying to come up with an idea.

 

Right on!!! I have been beating my head against the wall trying to figure an actual short route that does not become a long route. Mostly saving serious cash along the way.

Someone who attempts this, please post pics and follow ups.

 

I'm putting it down purely to vibration. The joint should be supported either side, but it isn't.

 

Something like this is a suitable cutter ie like the one depicted earlier. The one where you constantly have to manually tighten it onto the pipe is not suitable as there is insufficient room to get it in place.

 

Agreed - a hacksaw is not the way to go, but the compact pipe cutter probably is.

I've used them a few times on steel pipe with success. Probably blunted the cutter but it worked and they're cheap (about £3 i.e. $5).

 

Count your blessings. You could have a Lexus. I subscribe to a trade
publication that lists TSBs and other service suggestions. The recent
issue had 4, count 'em 4, service difficulties ranging from height system
control faults to various rattles. But the best was this: it appears Lexus
installed a vent line on some of their trannys that does, over a period
of time, allow water, etc. to enter the tranny and contaminate the fluid.
The bulletin describes the new vent system to be installed along with
INSTALLATION OF THE NEW TRANSMISSION! Yeah, that's right. By the
time the owner discovers the problem, the tranny is toast.

Finally; there is NO WAY you guys are going to get those lines off
without dropping the subframe unless your hands are the size of a 3 year
olds, triple jointed, and 20 inch arms. Not going to happen. As I mentioned earlier, my local dealer charged me about $680, parts, labor,
and fluid, to change the lines. An independent wanted $1,000 plus.
If I have the time, I would have taken the original line to an aircraft
repair facility (someplace like Sacramento Skyranch) and had them replace
the rubber parts with stainless braided lines.