Have removed all the bell housing bolts, exhaust, harnesses, cooling lines, shift linkage, torque converter bolts, driveline, but not the starter since it doesn't look like it could hang up anything. Jacked up front of engine and have jack under transmission. It won't budge ....any thoughts or do you need additional info?

 

Are you sure you have removed ALL bell housing bolts. I recall reading here that there are a couple bolts that are difficult to see/get to.

Its the only thing that comes to my mind.

 

Yes, the number of bolts (16) matches the number of holes around the bell housing...I know the shop manual says remove the starter, but the starter doesn't even engage the torque converter...might hsve to start really prying on it

 

I just read alldatadiy instructions for removal. From your op you have everything detached correctly other than the starter. IIRC doing a different job on the wife's, the starter should not be a hold up. Some gentle prying may be on order.

Are you on your back or is the vehicle on a lift?

Good luck

 

On my back in the garage...I'll take a few pics up top to check for another bolt since I had to remove the top two blind with 2 ft extension and I'll try some gentle prying ...thanks for the info!

 

Wonder if the spigot bore on the torque converter could be hanging it up...

 

Man I feel for you working on your back, been there done that.


Any luck on getting the tranny dropped?

 

No luck yet it's frustrating as hell...maybe the starter needs to come out

 

There are 2 locating hollow dowels that are STEEL and often CORRODE into the aluminum engine/gearbox (dis-similar metal corrosion). They are on either side (about 3 and 9 o'clock).

I usually spray some penetrating oil and let it set for a while. Then start drifting wedges into the seam to split the bellhousing from the engine block.

Work carefully and slowly so as NOT the break the housing. Usually a few wedges spread out are better than ONE BIG ONE!!!!!!!!!

good luck.

bob gauff

 

Sounds like I need to check that out Bob... I'm trying to figure out where the dowels might be...the two bigger bolt holes at 3 and 9 o'clock on the bell housing? No bolts were in those and it's hard to see if thin? hollow dowels are in there...time for a little Internet research.... Thanks for the great tip!

 

I am about to start this process myself on my S type R. Can you post some pictures of your Process? how did you get to the top bell housing bolts? Those are the ones that have me concerned. Also, How high did you have to raise your car up?

 

I'm no expert cpears but I jacked up the front wheels and put ramps under them, then I jacked up front even more to about 1 or 2 inches above ramp and put jack stands under. I have a floor jack under the transmission and a hydraulic jack under the front edge of the motor to hold the position of the motor once the transmission is removed...For the top four bolts you need a 13mm socket on the end of a 2 or 3 ft extension (Autozone has 20" extension - you can get 30" at other places) to get to the bolts on top from the driveline end....The car has to be up high enough to get the transmission out from the front or sides...maybe 18 to 20"...

 

 

Hydraulic jack supporting front of engine so that it didn't shift down when I removed the transmission, Jackstand behind jack




Lowering the transmission to the floor, needed to get it off the floor jack underneath the car




Jackstand on right




Jackstand on left

 

Finally got the transmission out...yes there were a couple of rusty dowels in the larger holes of the bell housing corroded out...used lots of penetrating oil as well as well as wedges, screwdrivers, putty knives, even a sharp ax!!!

 

Thanks for the great info. I am in the process of gathering the needed supplies. I will order up some long extensions for the job. I think getting the exhaust off and out of the way sounds like the most troublesome part from what I have read up on. I plan on replacing the torque converter so maybe I don't need to completely remove the trans from under the car, just lower it enough onto the ground to remove the converter and install a new one.

 

 

how did you gain access to the three bolts on the torque converter? looks like there were three in a triangular pattern?

 

Also, are you going to replace the rear main seal as preventative maintenance or just leave it alone if you don't have a current leak?

 

I didn't completely remove the exhaust, I just dropped down the two pipes as well as the cross member support and the removed the hanging supports from the rubber sleeves in the far back. Left the middle supports in the rubber sleeves between the exhaust pipe and mufflers in place to hang the exhaust in place.