Unresponsive ECM on a 2003 S-Type 4.2L s/c (Fixed)
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
This is going back a few years for me, but I remember the panic at the time.
On the Diagnostics screen, before clicking on recommendations after doing a scan, are any of the modules showing as the white X on a red background icon?
Have you run the the SDD option to get all of the current module details (forgive me for forgetting its name)? This should list out the version numbers of all of the modules, but it also saves a safe version of the firmware onto your hard drive.
For the car to start all of the ducks have to be lined up. The security information is stored in several parts in different modules and they all have to agree. The important ones are the Door module, dash module and ECM.
If you can can source version 1.6.2 of SDD it's much quicker and can also download the the modules if required. You need to source one that can be run online (unlike the 131). Updating the ECM using 131 on my X350 4.2 took 1.5 hours, so if you kick it off don't quit it. You WILL need to find some way of backing up your battery as you can not run that with the engine running. I used a fully charged spare battery, which was also being trickle charged. I've since purchased one of the these.
On the Diagnostics screen, before clicking on recommendations after doing a scan, are any of the modules showing as the white X on a red background icon?
Have you run the the SDD option to get all of the current module details (forgive me for forgetting its name)? This should list out the version numbers of all of the modules, but it also saves a safe version of the firmware onto your hard drive.
For the car to start all of the ducks have to be lined up. The security information is stored in several parts in different modules and they all have to agree. The important ones are the Door module, dash module and ECM.
If you can can source version 1.6.2 of SDD it's much quicker and can also download the the modules if required. You need to source one that can be run online (unlike the 131). Updating the ECM using 131 on my X350 4.2 took 1.5 hours, so if you kick it off don't quit it. You WILL need to find some way of backing up your battery as you can not run that with the engine running. I used a fully charged spare battery, which was also being trickle charged. I've since purchased one of the these.
my procedure went a bit like this.
I tried to run the reconfiguration process. I followed the steps but failed at the “2 click in under 10 seconds part”.. so the rectification failed. I want able to successfully flash it. It was asking if I wanted to update the ECM because the IDS was not connecting to the ECM. It showed up as communications failure. I did not have enough voltage during this process as now I’m aware I needed much more power to stabilize the car.
I’m asking my mechanic if this is something he can fix. He has Foreign software and can work on foreign cars but he’s not sure if he’s able to reflash ECU/ECM. My car was working fine before I tried to update the ECM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
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Likes: 4
I read the bulletin 1-186 Issue date: 11/04 - Great stuff in here, confirming some of my suspicions about the VID block.
I reinstalled the original ECM. Then checked the VID block - no communications with the ECM.
I started the IDS/SDD (software level DVD128) session with my Mongoose JLR (a SAE J2534 device) disconnected from the vehicle. Then I input the full 17 digit VIN and hit enter, based on the VIN it initiated a Legacy IDS session. I then answered no to the question, "do you wish to read the configuration from the vehicle", this forced IDS to retrieve the "as built" VID from the hard drive (a tip I garnered from the info in the bulletin). I checked the descriptions listed for equipment level and accepted them as correct. The IDS then prompted to read DTCs, I answered no and then at this point connected the IDS/Mongoose JLR to the car.
Now with a charger connected to the car set for 13.0V, I initiated a "Configure Existing Module" routine and selected the Engine Controller. I followed the prompts until communication failed out, and the IDS eventually prompted the "Rectification Procedure". Now I have performed this rectification procedure on this module before with no joy, but thanks to the bulletin when the time came to disconnect the negative battery cable I shorted together the two cables while they were disconnected. After the prompt to reconnect I followed the onscreen prompts as presented and ended up with a reported successful reflash! Still no start though, so I initiated the "Immobilisation Reset", and viola the car fired up! Next I initiated the report on all the vehicle control modules and happily the ECM was reorting the correct VIN. You have no idea how happy that made me!
I then successfully programmed the TCM to address the P0610 code. All I need to do now is perform the Transmission Adaption Routine.
I then repeated the ECM Reflash/Rectification routine on the other locked ECM, and successfully recovered that one too!
So, in closing, I learned that the VID block is very important to get right. That connecting the cables together during the disconnect portion of the "ECM Rectification" is necessary to succeed. Finally I learned never to flash a Transmission Control Module when the VID stored in the ECM is incorrect!
Thanks for your help, I hope my summary makes good reading!
Cheers
Brian
I reinstalled the original ECM. Then checked the VID block - no communications with the ECM.
I started the IDS/SDD (software level DVD128) session with my Mongoose JLR (a SAE J2534 device) disconnected from the vehicle. Then I input the full 17 digit VIN and hit enter, based on the VIN it initiated a Legacy IDS session. I then answered no to the question, "do you wish to read the configuration from the vehicle", this forced IDS to retrieve the "as built" VID from the hard drive (a tip I garnered from the info in the bulletin). I checked the descriptions listed for equipment level and accepted them as correct. The IDS then prompted to read DTCs, I answered no and then at this point connected the IDS/Mongoose JLR to the car.
Now with a charger connected to the car set for 13.0V, I initiated a "Configure Existing Module" routine and selected the Engine Controller. I followed the prompts until communication failed out, and the IDS eventually prompted the "Rectification Procedure". Now I have performed this rectification procedure on this module before with no joy, but thanks to the bulletin when the time came to disconnect the negative battery cable I shorted together the two cables while they were disconnected. After the prompt to reconnect I followed the onscreen prompts as presented and ended up with a reported successful reflash! Still no start though, so I initiated the "Immobilisation Reset", and viola the car fired up! Next I initiated the report on all the vehicle control modules and happily the ECM was reorting the correct VIN. You have no idea how happy that made me!
I then successfully programmed the TCM to address the P0610 code. All I need to do now is perform the Transmission Adaption Routine.
I then repeated the ECM Reflash/Rectification routine on the other locked ECM, and successfully recovered that one too!
So, in closing, I learned that the VID block is very important to get right. That connecting the cables together during the disconnect portion of the "ECM Rectification" is necessary to succeed. Finally I learned never to flash a Transmission Control Module when the VID stored in the ECM is incorrect!
Thanks for your help, I hope my summary makes good reading!
Cheers
Brian
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 28
Likes: 6
From: Stockport
OK. Firstly you need to somehow ensure that when you are doing the reconfig/flash that the voltage does not fall too low. To do that your need to hook up another fully charged battery or use a special charger that has a 'diagnostic battery support' mode like the Sealy I linked to earlier. To fully flash the ECM using 131 takes over an hour, with the ignition on.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
OK. Firstly you need to somehow ensure that when you are doing the reconfig/flash that the voltage does not fall too low. To do that your need to hook up another fully charged battery or use a special charger that has a 'diagnostic battery support' mode like the Sealy I linked to earlier. To fully flash the ECM using 131 takes over an hour, with the ignition on.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
This is the Step I was speaking of
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
OK. Firstly you need to somehow ensure that when you are doing the reconfig/flash that the voltage does not fall too low. To do that your need to hook up another fully charged battery or use a special charger that has a 'diagnostic battery support' mode like the Sealy I linked to earlier. To fully flash the ECM using 131 takes over an hour, with the ignition on.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Crewe
Apologies for the delay, I managed to lock myself out of the forum.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
OK. Firstly you need to somehow ensure that when you are doing the reconfig/flash that the voltage does not fall too low. To do that your need to hook up another fully charged battery or use a special charger that has a 'diagnostic battery support' mode like the Sealy I linked to earlier. To fully flash the ECM using 131 takes over an hour, with the ignition on.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
I can't remember the screen that prompts you to press the green tick in 2 secs, can you post a screen dump?
What happens if you click it as soon as the screen appears?
You can recover your ECM, we just need to ensure that the VID is written correctly and then you can run the immobiliser routine mentioned above and SSD will do the rest.
I do understand that this is a very stressful time, we'll take it ne step at a time and you should be back up and running again soon.
Apologies for the delay, I managed to lock myself out of the forum.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
Is this something that takes a hour? I was told it can take over an hour.. or is the process faster. In the picture below is the battery supporter I bought to ensure the car battery doesn’t drop below 12V? Is this good enough?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
Apologies for the delay, I managed to lock myself out of the forum.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
- If necessary to remove battery from vehicle to charge, always remove grounded terminal from battery first. Make sure all accessories in the vehicle are off, so as not to cause an arc.”
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
Apologies for the delay, I managed to lock myself out of the forum.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
You should be able to to use SSD to do it.
The screen is telling you to click the green tick on the bottom right of the screen, wait 2 seconds before switching on the ignition, to position II. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. You must do all of that within 10 seconds of pressing the original OK.
I hope that makes sense.
”I love that this is a BASIC / standard charger, and NOT a "Smart" charger. I appreciate that this unit has 3 charging modes, from maintainer to Jump start. It also puts out continuous charge on the 2/5 amp setting. This is SO important to have when needing to leave the ignition in the "On/accessory" or "Run" position while working on things, repairing the car, accessing the Engine computer Etc. This charger works GREAT at charging my VERY low batteries.”
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
I do the reconfigure process, to get the rectification step. And then go on from there. This should take around an Hour to complete. Then I do the immobilizing feature after?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Crewe
Once the reconfigure ECM process kicks off for real, it requires that the ignition is left in position II. Once complete it will tell you to switch off etc. Don't do it until complete. IIRC 131 does NOT have a progress bar, so you just have to sit tight.
Once complete, run the 'Immobiliser reset' (can't remember the actual name but you know it when you see it). This rewrites the VID into the correct modules, it may take some time to do this also, and there is much switching to II and removing key steps. If any of those steps fails it will tell you, and you then investigate why (probably another different module reflash)
You may not need the rectification step, SSD will tell you if you do need it (this sounds scary, but is actually a very good check). Running the immobiliser step is the important one to ensure all the modules are happily working with each other again.
If the car does not start after this it will be telling you via the security blinker in the centre on top of the dash, near the windscreen, this is a small black dome. When you turn the ignition on it blinks once and then goes off if ALL the security passes muster. If anything fails the tests it repeats a blinking pattern, until you switch off. IIRC this is called the PID (or similar). You should be able to find what the blink pattern means, it was in my workshop manual for the X350 and may be different for your STR.
Good luck.
I'm in the UK BTW. I'll check in tomorrow around 8am GMT.
Once complete, run the 'Immobiliser reset' (can't remember the actual name but you know it when you see it). This rewrites the VID into the correct modules, it may take some time to do this also, and there is much switching to II and removing key steps. If any of those steps fails it will tell you, and you then investigate why (probably another different module reflash)
You may not need the rectification step, SSD will tell you if you do need it (this sounds scary, but is actually a very good check). Running the immobiliser step is the important one to ensure all the modules are happily working with each other again.
If the car does not start after this it will be telling you via the security blinker in the centre on top of the dash, near the windscreen, this is a small black dome. When you turn the ignition on it blinks once and then goes off if ALL the security passes muster. If anything fails the tests it repeats a blinking pattern, until you switch off. IIRC this is called the PID (or similar). You should be able to find what the blink pattern means, it was in my workshop manual for the X350 and may be different for your STR.
Good luck.
I'm in the UK BTW. I'll check in tomorrow around 8am GMT.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
Once the reconfigure ECM process kicks off for real, it requires that the ignition is left in position II. Once complete it will tell you to switch off etc. Don't do it until complete. IIRC 131 does NOT have a progress bar, so you just have to sit tight.
Once complete, run the 'Immobiliser reset' (can't remember the actual name but you know it when you see it). This rewrites the VID into the correct modules, it may take some time to do this also, and there is much switching to II and removing key steps. If any of those steps fails it will tell you, and you then investigate why (probably another different module reflash)
You may not need the rectification step, SSD will tell you if you do need it (this sounds scary, but is actually a very good check). Running the immobiliser step is the important one to ensure all the modules are happily working with each other again.
If the car does not start after this it will be telling you via the security blinker in the centre on top of the dash, near the windscreen, this is a small black dome. When you turn the ignition on it blinks once and then goes off if ALL the security passes muster. If anything fails the tests it repeats a blinking pattern, until you switch off. IIRC this is called the PID (or similar). You should be able to find what the blink pattern means, it was in my workshop manual for the X350 and may be different for your STR.
Good luck.
I'm in the UK BTW. I'll check in tomorrow around 8am GMT.
Once complete, run the 'Immobiliser reset' (can't remember the actual name but you know it when you see it). This rewrites the VID into the correct modules, it may take some time to do this also, and there is much switching to II and removing key steps. If any of those steps fails it will tell you, and you then investigate why (probably another different module reflash)
You may not need the rectification step, SSD will tell you if you do need it (this sounds scary, but is actually a very good check). Running the immobiliser step is the important one to ensure all the modules are happily working with each other again.
If the car does not start after this it will be telling you via the security blinker in the centre on top of the dash, near the windscreen, this is a small black dome. When you turn the ignition on it blinks once and then goes off if ALL the security passes muster. If anything fails the tests it repeats a blinking pattern, until you switch off. IIRC this is called the PID (or similar). You should be able to find what the blink pattern means, it was in my workshop manual for the X350 and may be different for your STR.
Good luck.
I'm in the UK BTW. I'll check in tomorrow around 8am GMT.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Crewe
No problem, this forum has helped me greatly in the past so it's nice to put something back in. Where are you located? The STR didn't sell well in the states, it's a real sleeper (when it's working) and gives 911's of the same era a proper wake up call.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
Definitely a sleeper for sure. I’m from New York. My Instagram is @HardestSType it’s my car page
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,906
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From: Oregon
I am not well versed in the programming details, but do not think that charger will work. The instructions for that charger can be found here:
https://www.harborfreight.com/21050-...art-59424.html
The 2 and 10 amp settings can be operated continuously. The 50 amp boost mode is limited to only 5 seconds at a time! Wasn’t the magic number 20 amps continuous? Or was it 30? Either way, 10 amps continuous will be inadequate.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
I am not well versed in the programming details, but do not think that charger will work. The instructions for that charger can be found here:
https://www.harborfreight.com/21050-...art-59424.html
The 2 and 10 amp settings can be operated continuously. The 50 amp boost mode is limited to only 5 seconds at a time! Wasn’t the magic number 20 amps continuous? Or was it 30? Either way, 10 amps continuous will be inadequate.
https://www.harborfreight.com/21050-...art-59424.html
The 2 and 10 amp settings can be operated continuously. The 50 amp boost mode is limited to only 5 seconds at a time! Wasn’t the magic number 20 amps continuous? Or was it 30? Either way, 10 amps continuous will be inadequate.
