Magic.

Did you need to do the 'rectification'?

Re the charger, the 20 amp figure came about because when I was working on my XF Sportbrake I was advised some operations cause a battery usage spike of up to 20 amps. This is fine for most batteries, if they are nicely topped up and it's not for too long. Some operations take over an hour with the ignition on (How long did yours take MDZ?) and this makes them weak, hence keeping them topped up whilst the operation is performed. Obviously this is not a scientific prediction, just anecdotal from novices like myself working on these cars. Jaguar dealers (and probably other marques) are advised to have industrial support units for this type of work. They cost $000's.

 

Aye Nigel so, yes I did the rectification process. There was a forum on a guy who went through a similar but more server process because he tried to actually swap ECUs. Mine stemmed from just trying to update my original one, I did not have the correct car battery battery supply for the IDS program to work correctly.. that lead to the failure of the flash and yielding a “Bricked” car people call it. He mentioned answering “No” to the first 2 questions of wanting the program to read the DTC. The questions were “Do you wish to read the configuration of your vehicle” and then a “Do you wish to read DTCs”, he answered No to both of these questions, claiming it would force IDS to retrieve the “As built” information. The forum name was under @Jagman1984 “Unresponsive ECM… etc etc”
He did a great job documenting his progress. I followed the selection of “No”s and with the stable flow of battery power, it asked to begin the rectification procedure since it couldn’t communicate with the ECM. During this process it asks to disconnect the negative battery terminal.. There was documentation (bulletin 1-186 Issue date: 11/04) on Jagmans forum expressing to touch both the negative and positive terminals together during this step, then placing them back to move on to the next step. The “Press Tick, wait 2 seconds and then turn ignition ‘on’ within 10 seconds” step. The update began and it took mine about 30 minutes to update. It completed, cleared the codes and like Jagman said “Viola” I tuned the key and she started. I personally did not have to do any immobilization tactic in the program.
@Jagman1984 Thanks

 

All good then. Reading the config is good IF everything is good to start. There is an option in SSD to do it, and I would urge people to do it prior to any module update. SSD can recover itself if you do as the firmware for each of the working modules is on your laptop.

In my 162 version the whole process is much simplified and if you mess up, it's a one click button to revert to 'as built' and will go to TOPIC for the module firmware if required. Well worth getting hold of a copy if you can.

 

Yea that’s great, I’ll have to look into getting that 162 version.. to make things easier. Currently I’m just dealing with a CATs suspension code because I’m on lowering springs. My mechanic claimed they disconnected the battery when dealing with the Adaptive suspension but I’m not sure a I have that and an ABS light where my traction control is stuck off.

 

ABS is probably a sensor, if it's a temporary code (with the broken link symbol), SSD will tell you which one. Those ones should self clear on replacing and driving off. Traction won't work without it. If it's a permanent code then clear the codes and take the motor for a drive and rescan.
CATs is more problematic. You don't need to remove the battery for normal scanning and diagnostics. Again clear the codes and take the motor for a drive and see what occurs when you rescan, some of these codes may have been set many moons ago.

 

Great feeling to have success on a problem like you had. Yes. Been there done that myself. From gut wrenching to whooooo hoooo. Good job

 

Thank you bro, it really is a miserable feeling. I didn’t go to the gym for 3 days😂😂

 

They were definitely set months ago. I’ll give it another try now that the ECM is updated.. I should have communications with it now to get rid of it. Some people made it seem as if the CAT code was permanent. Actually this is the message, I have a picture

I have 3 different “Circuit” open codes for 3 different shocks but I’ve unplugged and plugged back in every adaptive connector and they seemed just fine.

 

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