Has anyone experienced these symptoms as i am going crazy trying to solve it??
My 2002 S Type v8 has developed a very annoying shudder and vibration mainly felt through the steering wheel.
If i have the engine running and gear in neutral and rev the engine to 2000rpm i feel a bad judder through the wheel (no judder at idle), its also bad as i pull away from 0 - 50 mph and is hardly noticeable at high speeds. Also there is a knocking noise more noticeable over bumpy road surfaces rather than speed humps.

I was thinking the front anti roll / sway bar bushes are needing replaced but because the problem exists when the car is stationary surely this rules that out.

I also suspect the engine / transmission mounts so i had a friend sit in the car, foot on the brake and placed gear into drive, as he reved to about 2000 - 3000 rpm the engine lifted on one side (LH) approx 2 inches. Is this normal or should there be no movement? There was no knocking sound as he did this.

I have changed many parts to attempt this fix including
. new lower ball joints, upper wish bones, upper shock mounts, and lower shock bushes, new discs and pads and if anything the problem is worse.

Today i supported the transmission mount with a trolley jack and this made no difference. Then i moved the jack to front of the gearbox where it attaches to the engine and supported it with the jack, the shudder dissapeared. Now i am confused as this would logically say the engine mounts are worn or am i wrong?? I have a video of the engine moving when the car was placed in drive with my foot on the brake and reved the engine, the LH side of the engine does move about 1-2 inches in an upward direction, no movement though on the RH side.

Also if indeed it is the engine/motor mounts is there a DIY explanation on this as access to remove appears impossible on the LH side.

Can anyone throw some advice my way on this as its starting to become rather expensive.

Thx

 

I know nothing about S types but I'm sure the engine shouldn't move !
Have you downloaded JTIS?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...archive-66031/
It's a bit of a fiddle to set up but an absolute goldmine of info.
I can't find a how-to on the mounts but I'm sure someone who knows can help

 

I'm with Steve.

YES the engine does lift on the LH side under acceleration, but 2" as you are stating is waaaaay too much in my opinion.

I have had one of my V12's lift significantly like that, and the LH engine mount was seperated.

Very hard to detect with the engine weight ON the mount, so the fact it has disappeared with your jack under the "centre point" makes perfect sense to me.

A pair of engine mounts and maybe a trans mount will do NO harm at this age of any car.

 

It does sound like mounts to me. Usually there is no easy way to replace mounts, you are going to have to lift the motor up enough to be able to get to them.

 

Thanks for the input guys, think you are right Grant at this age would be a good change, assuming they are original. Only issue with this is my location as only original parts are available and they are soooo expensive.. Matbe just have to take the hit on this one.

Will keep you all informed and intend to do a step by step DIY on this hopefully will be useful to other members.

 

You are pretty remote to DIY I guess. Maybe order the mounts and wait? I just looked and they are only $40 each from Rock Auto. I am sure they can ship it to you??

It's not been reported much if at all but since they are hard to change stay with new parts.

Here is how the parts go together.



Item 4 goes thru the front cross member. The black arrow is pointing to it.



Here is a mount they all look the same but I think there are internal differences. STR mount shown.



The big cost will be labor. You need to jack the engine up and I don't know if you can get it up high enough to swap the mount. Might need to remove the metal bracket from the block? Not much room to work. Are the mounts leaking?

Can you find another Jaguar and do the same test? Open the hood and lightly load the engine against the brakes while in gear. You can see the engine movement thru the gap in the hood when it's open. All engines will have some movement unless it's mounted solid to the car! Just to check if yours is moving more than normal?

Report back how it got fixed as yours does not seem to be a common problem and you have thrown a lot of parts at it with no change.
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Ian, I had the same "shudder" issue throughout the low end driving range... I purchased a set of engine mounts - finding out I only needed the left side mount replaced. 2" of lift from the left side is way too much. I put my Jag on a lift and I observed from underneath the left mount was almost collapsed and clearly sitting lower than the right side. (These mounts are hydraulic) - If you are interested in the extra mount I have (I purchased from Rock Auto) - PM me - I'll give you a great deal on it cause I don't need it - Thanks.

 

Thanks for the illustrations Clubairth1, The picture of the mount shown is an aftermarket unit i assume as it looks different to the ones i have fitted. The one on my car does not have the dome shape on the top. $40 a piece is very reasonable and i will look into that, thanks.

Just leaves the issue of changing them, i can get access to the upper and lower nuts but unsure if sufficient clearance is available to remove and replace a new unit.

hope to find "how to" on this.

 

Thanks Abonano

Just curious about this as i am pretty sure its the LH i need, Did you change this yourself or get your mechanic to do it.

Was it a bid job or quite straightforward?

Thx

 

Ian - I had my mechanic do it - he told me it was straight forward. I would have tackled myself but don't have much free time with work and all. He did tell me the mount I got from rockauto was easier to install than the OEM mount would have been if that helps. Made a big difference....

 

That is a Jaguar STR factory mount. So I think you have proved that the mounts are similar but vary depending on the model. I would suspect the STR to have stronger mounts as the engine has a good bit more torque to control!!
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Hello tbird6

Am i correct by thinking this unit is different to one i have fitted but is will fit and do the same job?

 

I think it is different and should not be used except in the model it's for (STR).

 

Well a quick update,

Received the two motor mounts from Rock Autos, brilliant service well reccommended.

I fitted them yesterday, not the easiest job to be honest without access to a ramp.

Bad news is its made no difference, so frustrating. Maybe time to have the dealer take a look at it.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.. oh dear.

 

Bugga.

Going waaaaaay off track now, so a stiff drink might help us all.

Some of the earlier Jags (and other makes) with these "electronic" transmissions had an issue with the torque convertor lock up thingy doing dumb things at the strangest times. The most common was the engine stalling when coming to a stop sign etc, but other vibration oddities were also apparent.

I am thinking that the lock up MAY be cycling and causing this vibration?????. Maybe a simple trans fluid/filter change MAY help the situation, and anyway it certainly would not do any harm.

Then my downunder brain is heading for the transmission mount/s, just maybe???.

 

Yes Grant i agree a couple of stiff drinks are needed to help me get through this one
I will change the transmission fluid as you never know, it may just work and it probably is due anyway.
As for the transmission mount this was my initial thought but i went away from this idea as when i support the trans mount with a trolley jack the problem still occurs.
I will take it to the dealer this week hopefully and hopefully get the answer to this one.

 

Important question: is the VIN before M45255?

 

Jagv8

Yes i believe so as the last 6 digits are M43375!!

Is this a known issue with these chasis numbers?

 

Sorry you replaced the mounts with no change. Please report back what the dealer finds. Like I said it's not a common problem so it might be something we don't expect?
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