The fact that it's a rwd v8, and if I'm at a stop on dry pavement - she will NOT screech/spin the tires/peel rubber. I do have good all seasons but I find it odd that it just won't spin the rear tires for fun. I'll save on tires I guess
Lol - the last thing I would call the S-type is something with "space", maybe compared to an old Nissan Sentra...sure. But that is not anything that bothers me. I like it's interior and exterior dimensions.
I actually really like the car, just thought it was really odd it can't spin the rear tires on dry pavement. Not something I need to go change the car I drive over...
The servo bore wear is what I was talking about.
The alignment of the bores is such that the application force to the band is not quite tangential, and it puts a side load on the servo pin. This is a major contributing factor toward bore wear, the other being the lack of a bushing. When the bore wears enough, there is sufficient fluid leakage (forceful spray) through the gap that the hydraulic pump cannot deliver enough pressure to the servo to fully actuate the band. Then the transmission slips, and this happens well before the pin would break from the info that I have found.
In the future, I will avoid any vehicle that has any version of the 5R55 transmission.
You are partially correct in that the servo bore wear causes a drop in line pressure to move the servo piston, but the TCM compensates by raising the line pressure, thus causing the harsh impact of the servo pin on the band. The servo pin is not what breaks, but the end of the band breaks just before the friction material.
The non-synchronised version of the 5R55 gearbox used in the S-Type is quite robust, but must be overhauled by a Technician knowing what modifications to make so it can then have a service life most likely well beyond the vehicle it's in.
The reason Jaguar went with the ZF 6HP26/28 is due to the need for increased fuel economy.
On a tangent of this issue, my low mile 07 occasionally has the windows reverse their closing trip and re-open when about 1/2 way up. It must be sensing restriction. What's the best way to lube the windows-in their rubber tacks with some dry or silicone lube?
One more thing to try: Run the window up with the door open and see if the operation is any better. If so, the door may be slightly out of adjustment. When closed, it puts some outward pressure on the window tracks and causes binding. When the door is open, pressure on the tracks is relieved.
