I've searched the forums until my eyes glazed over have haven't seen this issue addressed, so I hope I'm not asking a redundant question.

I have a 2001 S type 3.0 and I replaced my fuel filter because it was stalling at idle after about 30-45 seconds. When I finished that, I decided to disconnect and reconnect the battery because I read here that it may reset my audio system and correct the fact that it doesn't recognize the cassette in the slot, and won't eject it.

Afterward, when I tried to start the car, it acted like it started for a second or so, then stalled. Same thing over and over, except now it just cranks and cranks but doesn't start even for a second or so.

Not sure which of my actions contributed to this, but I started the car and let it run for several minutes after the filter replacement, but before the battery disconnect/reconnect. It ran fine and didn't stall, so I suspect that disconnecting/reconnecting the battery is the culprit. I depressed the bleeder valve on the fuel line and fuel comes out so it appears to be getting fuel.

Any suggestions/advice would be much appreciated.

 

I would venture to say that you have a fuel issue......check to make sure you are getting fuel........on the fuel rail relief valve press in and see if gas comes out if not then the issue is fuel......check all the fuses, fuel pump reset button.....

 

Somebody else had this.....can't remember whether or not a V6 but I think it was. I recall it was a lady......don't recall what the solution was or even if she ever posted what resolved it. I'll keep a sharp eye out and edit back a link if I find it.


Found it! Don't know if it's any help to you, haven't worked my way all the way thru it yet:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...battery-65354/

 

Thank you both for trying to help. I checked the fuses, and lo and behold, the fuse for the fuel pump was blown. I replaced it and gave a few cranks, but the battery died before it started. Put the charger on it and I'll try it in the morning. Hopefully this solves my problem. Thanks again.
Jim

 

Great news!...well sort of...if you read blondgal's link you'll see Brutal says your blown fuel pump fuse is indicative of a failing pump on it's way out. You should probably change that in your nice warm garage or something sometime soon. It'll beat doing it out on the shoulder of a snow-covered Toledo freeway in a Polar Vortex!


Oh! and if you don't get a start tomorrow with the charged battery, check that fuse again - you could be advanced to the point that it blows 'em as soon as you feed it.

 

Well...I'm at a complete loss now. Tried starting this morning. The engine turns over but won't start. I checked what I guess is called a Shrader valve (never knew that, but read it in the other thread). Contrary to yesterday when I first checked it, there does not appear to be fuel pressure. I believe that what appeared to be fuel pressure yesterday was actually fuel, absent pressure, and that it has bled off.

I checked the inertia switch and it is depressed. I removed and checked every fuse in all three fuse boxes, and all are fine. I switched relays around with like relays to see if that helped; still won't start.

When I insert the key and turn it to the position that illuminates the dash warning lights, I assume I should hear the fuel pump running, but I don't.

I tried using a rechargeable jump starter, and that didn't work either. When I try cranking and the battery/jumpstarter begin to die the alarm sounds and I need to press the unlock button on the fob to turn it off. The PAT turns on for a few seconds when I first turn the key to the second position, then it turns off. When I tried cranking it with and the battery was dead, it just clicked and the parking lights flashed a few times. Don't know if any of this means anything, but it is certainly perplexing.

I also removed both battery cables and touched them together for a few seconds to reboot the computer, as suggested in another thread, but that doesn't seem to have helped either.

I'm kicking myself for ever having disconnected the battery because everything seemed fine after I replaced the fuel filter and let the car idle for 5 or 10 minutes. Apparently disconnecting the battery in a Jag opens up a can of worms I never would have imagined.

Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

What you say about battery/etc "begin to die" strongly suggests the battery is either flat or near (permanently?) dead. A no-start is not a surprise.

But if you have no fuel then it won't start, period. At a guess the fuel filter has stressed the pump to the point it's died. ( Can't be sure, if the battery is as it sounds.)

 

i don't know this vehicle, but did you install the fuel filter backwards? that might stress the fuel pump to the point where it popped the fuse. further stress might have burnt out the pump.

but, at this point with all the cranking flooding or bore wash might be a problem.

additionally, with all the cranking and playing with jump start boxes, you are working with a handicap because it is impossible to reliably diagnose no-start problems on computerised vehicles, and in particular jaguars, without a known good battery at full charge. any diagnostic conclusions made with a weak battery are suspect.

therefore, you have to step back take a breath and start afresh with a fully charged battery.

you are also in ohio. if you are not working in a heated garage, you might not get this going again until it warms up. clearing flooding is very difficult in cold temperatures and cranking speed is going to be lower in cold temperatures.

 

Jim reread post #5. I would put some faith in what Brutal has mentioned about blowing fuses prior to fuel pump failing.


You can access fuel pump relatively easy, its under the rear seat basically, no jacking or getting under the vehicle.

 

plums I thought about the backwards filter as well, but he states after he replaced the fuel filter he started and idled vehicle for 5~10 minutes.

 

If the fuse is blown, you can jump this thing until time comes to an end without results. If the fuse is blown, you can connect the vehicle directly to a nuclear power plan and it still wont start.


Replace the fuel pump, relay and filter. Anything else is just asking for more trouble.

 

Thank all of you SO much for your advice! Here's what has transpired; I read through some other threads and saw a post by, I believe Jagtech, who said that a reset of the computer needs at least 5 minutes of having the battery disconnected. I tried that, as well as locking/unlocking the drivers door with the key a half dozen times, then locking/unlocking with the fob a half dozen times (read those in other threads and figured I'd try anything at that point).

Actually, as soon as I did the 5 minute reset I knew things were different because my CD player started making noise as soon as I reconnected the battery. Got a jump start after leaving the jumper cables from the running car hooked up for a good 10 minutes; voila, she fired up and has been fine ever since. Granted, that's only a few hours, but I've driven and turned her off several times and it fires up like a champ each time The first ride was 20 miles or so on the highway to charge the battery, and no issues so far.


Thanks again to all who offered help and advice. It's really awesome to have this resource. You have saved me countless dollars in towing charges, diagnostic, repair, etc. when a 5 minute reset did the job.


For the record, I'm ordering a new fuel pump, to be proactive and because I respect the experience of those who suggested it is probably on its way out, and if (when, likely!) I have an issue with its replacement, it's comforting to know you're all here to help.


I hope I can return the favor some day.

 

Low battery.

 

You really stressed the battery. Might consider changing it after all that?
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+1 battery

 

Could you explain the 5 minute reset?

 

+1 battery and failing fuel pump...

 

pampurd, the way it was described to me, and the way I did it was to disconnect both battery cables from the battery and touch them together for at least 5 minutes. As long as both aren't connected to the battery there is no harm in them touching, and it allows any current in the electrical system capacitors, etc to drain to ground. After completely draining all current, reconnect the positive, and then the ground cables. The computer should then reset itself. You will need to reprogram any personal settings; radio stations, seats, mirrors etc.

 

Thanks so much for this entire board!

I had the same problem and had the fuel pump replaced by a local mechanic. The car still had almost the same problem (stalling after 35-40 seconds) and I assumed it was the battery (which I bought new only a few months earlier). Since I'd just had the fuel pump replaced I thought it might be the battery. I took the battery and had it fully charged and still had the same problem. The same exact problem before he replaced the pump.

Ended up having it towed back to the mechanic and now he's saying I need a NEW computer @ $1000. Plus he's acting shady and wouldn't give me an estimate until I went up to the shop and got angry because he'd had my car so long. So I'm definitely going to go get my car and try these suggestions.

Can anyone tell me what the warning signs are if the computer does have to be replaced? What should I look for?

 

I am very nearly certain he's wrong, but start by finding WHICH computer as there are about a dozen. My feeling is change to someone who has a clue.