Ignoring the maths error you would be pretty close, but my understanding of the whole temp check procedure is that pretty close is not close enough.

I'd imagine that most people will choose to drop the pan and replace it with a new one c/w filter bringing in another element along with the dripping that Brutal mentioned.

As for an IR target I'd favour the pan as the heat transfer through the plastic may be better than through the case.

 

Good info

Thanks, Guys.

 

Once again another good write up. I am going to change mine, I have 51000 on my 2004 STR thanks Paul

 

Take a look at this; Most easiest explanation there is.

 

I'm still a newbie sorta also lol, just to b sure, this is something I can do to my 2000 s-type 4.0 correct?

 

Welcome. And: No. You don't have the ZF 6HP26. Yours is the Ford 5R55N. (The FAQs and Search will get you good threads.)

 

Ok thanks!!! Yeah I'm trying to get use to the abundance of info here lol a lot of great stuff, a little overwhelming, but degjnately great stuff!

 

I would have to disagree with the 7.5L amount.


After letting the fluid drain for 24 hours I removed 4.9L and refilled 5.4L at 41 Degree's on a perfectly level vehicle.

I'm sure thats why the kit only comes with 6L

 

This guy did his own transmission pan/filter change on his xk8 him self and put it on you tube. Don't know if he did it right but check the video out.

Jaguar XK8 Transmission Fluid/Pan Change - YouTube

 

at first I thought it was an advertisement for harbor freight. I think I'll pass on putting the MERCON®SP fluid in my trans.

 

Its NOT 7.5L, its 7.5 US Quarts!

The kit from www.thectsc.com comes with 6 liters, that is all you need for a pan drop and fill. If you were to let set over night you would need to order a liter or 2 extra!

1 Liter = 1.05668821 Quarts [US] or
6 Liter = 6.34012926 Quarts [US]

 

No need for extra fluid, 6L is good enough. I'm assuming you had the car lifted incorrectly which caused extra fluid to drain from the converter and ect.

 

03, I don't think you get what I am saying........

Trust me the first vehicle, Joyces Jag was done on a lift perfectly level. I choose to use Castrol Multi Import ATF that came in US QUARTS, I let drain over night and filled with approx. 7.5 US QUARTS in the morning, 12 hour drain time. I rechecked the level 1 week later on the same lift and the level was correct and still is.

2nd vehicle, Joels 2003 S Type, I did in my garage and again the vehicle was perfectly level. I used the kit from thectsc which came with 6 LITERS and pan/filter. I let drain, oh about 10 minutes while I replaced the electrical sleeve, installed new pan/filter and added just shy of 6 LITERS back in to proper level. Joel had it checked about a week later at a transmission shop where he lives (3 hours away from myself) and the level was correct and still is.

 

So it's something like air gradually getting into the torque convertor or the lines up to the oil cooler and the extra fluid gradually draining out, but only if you leave it draining overnight?

 

Apparently so.

 

The factory fills the gear box at 40c and i have seen some issues regarding shift quality even on newer xf/xk/xj, filling the gear box at exactly 30c yo can add up to 500-800ml of fluid, this temp is being monitored with the factory SDD tool. I have found the infrared tool to be not as accurate, but can get you by

 

So, I have drained and dropped the pan to do a 110k mile service. The old oil was dark and the new oil is obviously clear and honey colored. The pan had just a slight amount of material on the magnets so I hope not a great amount of wear after the 110k miles.
Pan had the T30 larger size torx bolts and the date code on the pan said 2004 so I guess it might be the original "sealed for life" material. No leaks or other issues getting bolts out.

I drained 5+liters of oil out and got 5+ liters back in at ~40C.

The question though I have is what is 'level'.
The door sill?
The base of the transmission pan? (this is angled quite a bit)
The sealing edge of the pan (measuring with a level on the head of the pan bolts)

I am sure the angle of the car would have as much effect as the temperature.
I leveled the mounting level of the pan measured in the pan bolt heads.
This has the front low compared to the base of pan level and font high compared to the door sill.

I think it better to measure level based on the transmission as the suspension could give some different value of level if using the door sill.

I thought I should have got 5.5 to 6L back in, but was closer to 5.2L.

So, what should be level where when letting the fluid out.

Thanks

 

That is an excellent question. I believe most of us assume "level" is based upon getting the car in the air using jack stands that show four equal measurements of the distance between the concrete floor and where the top of each jack stand contacts the metal support piece of the underside of the car. If you're using a hydraulic lift at a shop, you're at the mercy of the lift apparatus being level since I doubt if there would be any "tilt" controls that you could manipulate - that would be dangerous and would add a significant degree of liability to the entire process....

 

I find it hard to believe that the fairly small angular difference can matter since the box has to work at far bigger angles. Bear in mind, too, that its fill amount must have a max and min even if we don't know what they are.