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damn i want to do this... do you have any video clips demonstrating?
where'd you mount the toggle switch
No video because is really wouldn't show the full capability of the system. It is so variable what would I show you? Just imagine going from stock, luxury car quiet to full out race car with straight pipes in about 3 seconds, you can also open them any amount in between for a little growl or a more aggressive sound.
I mounted momentary contact toggle the switch where the ashtray used to be in the center console.
Vector
Today I SUCCESSFULLY got the JTIS software working on my laptop! I tried last Summer and got really frustrated; gave up. I figured "hey, if you are capable of replacing all of the timing gear on a Jaguar, surely you can get a silly piece of software to work". So, I tried again this morning...
Victory. Hopefully this will mean I ask a lot fewer questions for the veteran members to deal with.
I work as a Software Engineer and my specialty is legacy systems and legacy porting and it took longer to get it going than I'd like to admit lol.
I have to say that I like the Jaguar JTIS procedures than the garbage I've printed out from my Bentley manual for my Audi A8. Best still goes to Suzuki for my GSXR1100 manual; easily the best written and illustrated FSM I've ever used. It doesn't hurt that I can do almost everything on that thing with simple hand tools.
Pulled SC and inlets and associated paraphernalia on the way to pulling the heads to hopefully only do head gasket, and slight refresh if possible, else it's a parts car.
If you've looked under the hood of JTIS and IDS,
you'll realise that it is some of the worst design
and implementations ever conceived by amateurs.
I'm okay with mystery! I learned at work that the more old code I work with, especially written by contractors without code review, the more I'm ok with keeping the decrepit man behind the curtain actually behind the curtain.
I'm okay with mystery! I learned at work that the more old code I work with, especially written by contractors without code review, the more I'm ok with keeping the decrepit man behind the curtain actually behind the curtain.
As long as it's paid work at consultant rates on a
time and materials basis, then yes.
But when it's stuff you use for unpaid work .... grrr!
And the new stuff churned out by "software engineers"
using "integrated development environments" ... OMFG.
Well, after a few more incidents of ASC track unavailable and its inevitable (and major PITA) limp-home mode and after cleaning, inspecting and testing the wheel speed sensors without much success, I've finally taken her back to Nigel, here at British Eurotech, after about three years since he worked on this same problem last.
Positive responses from various members who claim not having had such bad experiences with this issue kind of give me hope to stay and not to divorce her after all... I want this car, what can I say? I sure hope that Nigel can kill those gremlins so I can continue progress with a few upgrades.
If things work out, the tired, but not damaged, paint will get either a nice buffing, or better yet, get wet-sanded in a similar fashion as my XJS show car was achieved (although that was on new paint). Man, that Zircon paint would probably look absolutely phenomenal. Also getting the sagging headliner taken care of and just maybe new leather on the front seats, probably not cheap. BTW, how much should I pay for the new leather seats?
Pulled the fue..... errr petrol tank and replaced both fuel pumps with a pair of HFP-382's from Amazon. Half the price of the Delphi units and seemed to be of the same quality, no noise whatsoever.
Finally got the tools and opportunity to do primary and secondary chains, tensioners, related gaskets, etc. Pulled the front cover (after spending an hour fighting a rounded bolt head).
Discovered the cause of the rattle was not just worn tensioners, but that there was about 4 inches of one of the primary guides completely gone. Bolts on the corresponding primary tensioner were not even finger-tight, and i believe one of the bolts snapped off inside the block...
bolt snapped in the block?
Something is missing here..
Buttoned it all back up loosely, now to wait for a day without rain or work to play operation with that broken bolt.
Finally got the tools and opportunity to do primary and secondary chains, tensioners, related gaskets, etc. Pulled the front cover (after spending an hour fighting a rounded bolt head).
Discovered the cause of the rattle was not just worn tensioners, but that there was about 4 inches of one of the primary guides completely gone. Bolts on the corresponding primary tensioner were not even finger-tight, and i believe one of the bolts snapped off inside the block...
Begs me to ask....how long have you had the car and how many mile son it?
Has this car had worked performed previously?
98k mi. Got the car as a mechanic's special a few weeks ago, the previous owner garaged it a few years back when it started to rattle. He started it once to show it ran and drove (which is kind of surprising with this damage), and I started it once for about 30 secs to test the alt and verify noise was coming from tensioners.
As for work done previously, I'd assume not with the tensioners. Previous owner mentioned the whole top end of the motor was rebuilt, but I'm pretty doubtful of that. The SC, V8 plate, and intercoolers are all showroom clean, with what looks like a fairly poor repaint with factory or close to factory color.
Sounds like a reasonable explanation. In that case I'll replace both bolts for that tensioner, and maybe the other primary, since I think my kit only came with bolts for the secondaries. Is there a special bolt needed, or just any bolt with the correct thread and length?
