Your pic's hard for me to decipher the length measurements but these look like them correct ?!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Oval...4/251705162207

While my car's down & apart I'm gung-ho on replacing all the little nuances I've noticed but just didn't want to bother with due to difficult access lol.

 

KC, those will look cheap as they seem to be open design --> you will look through them at certain angles.
Better double check.

 

Yes I noticed that as well. These eBay guys' have no uniformity in descriptive listing for these lol. I've messaged CK's seller as to when they will be back in stock.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-2-to-3-...l/263570519773

These have very similar specs w/ the 6" length,3.5" outlet but the inlet range is 2-3".




I'm now officially down the eBay exhaust tip rabbit hole lol.

 

Those are not the same, similar, but not the same. A larger inlet size, and look to be of a "cheaper", thinner material.


Boy do I hear you , I have spent hours searching the internet, trying to decipher the actual inlet/outlet/length size of exhaust tips. It is so hard to find a true 2" inlet, with a 3 1/2"+ outlet in the style you want, that isn't too wide for the x308 rear bumper cutouts This seller's items looked too good to be true, and I took a chance thinking at only $17 bucks it was worth a try, and they turned out to be even better than I thought they would be. It's disappointing the seller doesn't have more.

 

What do you think about these?

 

I think they look good, but are the dimensions suitable. i.e. a 2" inlet and no wider than 5".

That inlet stub is very short, so it would only go on the existing pipe a short way, making the item very long, most likely too long. Could always cut the existing pipe shorter to compensate, but then you get into not being able to revert to stock if needed.

 

Car knows it's being replaced, I'm certain of it. Went to get gas last night, and the filler area had filled and frozen with water, must be drain blocked or something. So this morning, took a bucket of warm water out - it was minus 6 at the house. And used that to thaw, and a towel to soak, and finally get it freed up. And then the right front tire went out a half mile down the road. No reason I can see, not off the bead, no belts or wear through anywhere. So, a little late to work on the spare once again. I just need to make it home tonight... one more drive. That's all I ask!

 

My wife has been having to add a pint of water a day to the reservoir of the 98XJ8 for the past week. Saturday was my first chance to see where the leak was.
I used a pressure tester and found a leak in the resovior itself. There was about an inch crack on the side of it.
I took the reservoir off the XJR project and installed it on the 98XJ8. Refilled the tank, did a pressure and all is good to go.

I have a couple of other issues to work on.
The drivers door window doesn't work. But if I do a hard reset it will work normally for a short time and then fail to operate.
The car will sometimes stumble upon acceleration, but if I disable the ASC it will accelerate normally. Also if I do a hard reset it will accelerate normally for a few hours.

I need to work on the 2000 XK8 today. I will research the issues with the 98XJ8 and see if I can find the cause or causes of the issues.

 

Progression

 

Wow, a lot of work.....should look fantastic when done!

 

Oddly enough it won't start now ?! I'm wondering if the immobilizer or impact sensors have been triggered in disassembly as the battery's topped off & newer, it presents no codes etc. I guess I'll send him the hard reset instructions seems whenever someone not a Jaguar owner hears them they make a curious expression lol.

 

Now that it's finally quit raining here in northern CA I can drag my car out and get some better pics of the new exhaust tips. I love these, a huge improvement over the smaller stock variety.

 

He performed the hard reset it did nothing but rolled down all windows ?! Not sure if that's part of the process or if he did the reset incorrectly. I sent the inertia switch schematics etc. hopefully that'll be the end of it. Nothing is simple w/ these cars lol when you think something is cut & dry easy, like say an exterior paint job, BAM let's make it complicated & refuse to start.

 

The neverending saga of "car pulls/drifts left" continues! I took it to the shop I bought tires from to try and warranty them. They basically wasted my time, probably just looked at the car and said "oh the bumper is slightly off, must be a frame misalignment causing the pull." Charged me for a "misc inspection" and didn't even bother to check tire pressure, so who knows how much work they actually did... Anyway I just took it to a frame repair shop recommended by coworkers, to have them measure the frame for misalignment. Results are in, the frame is not bent! Which is obviously great, if the frame was bent after all the work I've put into this car I'd be pretty screwed.

I guess now I get to hassle the tire shop again with this info and see what happens.

Other than that, I put in new door clips and bushes in my driver's side inner door panel. Much quieter now when closing the door, almost as quiet as the rarely used rear doors. One rattle down! Now I need to address a rattle in the back (maybe center stop light), top dash/windshield area rattle, and something with the cupholder area. Slow but steady progress in silence.

 

now let's do the washing of the injection system but the problem remains (when from the hot gases with running cars the revs drop off until no more) no light on this petrol 100 octane plus LPG additives works well, changed fuel filter, spark NGK, changed fuel pressure regulator, better ignition on petrol than on LPG idle speed ok in parking speed up to 6000rpm ok what should I check according to you? help me after a year with gasoline always problems

 

Imperial Goodies Arrived : Direct from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, authentic Emperor Haile Selassie era imperial guard badge. 50+ years it's still mint. Going to mount on the mesh grill.





It's aluminum so I may clear coat it, haven't decided yet.

 

changed the engine oil with liqui moly 5w40 full synthetic oil engine run smoother

 

Yep, my car runs much better, smoother, and quieter when I wash and wax it too!

 

Ok there's pressure @ the rail(wasn't measured as of yet), inertia switch reset(wasn't tripped) he has the plugs out letting them air out as the repeated cranking attempts may have flooded it/bore wash ?! I've never experienced bore wash with this car but I sent him the BW protocol anyways. If he can't get it started up tomorrow I'm calling a mobile service, & deducting it from the paint job. I gave him clear instructions to keep it on the tender while there.

 

Paint Deconstruction Revelation :

Over the last year I've replaced all shocks,mounts,bump stops,tires,wheel bearings,exhaust hangers,lubed springs etc. But could never find one lone noise, a knock rear driver side that presented itself w/ uneven road conditions. Well today during my bore wash ordeal the paint guy showed me that some of the rear bumper support guides/brackets were broken where the rivet mounts therefor giving it play w/ bumps. I think I've finally found my damn noise lol. Safe to say I just ordered all new pieces.