Ta. I'll take a look at a parts diagram to see what bulbs should be in there then.

 

Yup, as are the overhead console switches. They aren't too hard to replace.

Little grain of wheat bulbs mounted with the leads through a rubber block, pushed onto two pegs on the switch PCB (rubber dome/carbon pad contacts) with a small blue condom over the bulb to give it that pale blue color. No soldering required, they make contact by the leads being held against the metal peg in the black rubber block.

Quite easy to change, tools required small screwdriver and a craft knife or spudger.





Basically everything that has a white symbol on a switch in the car should light up, barring the steering wheel buttons and stalks.

Phil

 

Service manual says "change switch for a new one"

Search #8111 bulbs. 14V 0.91W. T-1 shape, wire terminal base. They work well for all the buttons and small illuminated things like the gear shifter, AC buttons, window switches etc.

 

Thanks Phil.
The overhead console works, I'd just never thought about the door switches before. But the other week a passenger asked where the window switch was & I noticed they don't light up.

I'll get some bulbs ordered & when the car comes home I'll sort it out. I dropped it at the garage this morning for timing chains, front end clonk, crusty bit behind NSF shock, MOT & a bigger bottom pulley & larger intercooler pump while they're in there. I don't like paying for such things, but I'm past doing jobs that size on a rough drive in 2-3C temps & not being able to walk for a week when my back objects.

 

Yeah, know that feeling. That's why I've not started the front suspension on mine.
Hardest part of doing the switches is taking the entire @&$# door card apart and off each door just to remove the switch pack.

 

THX - Stu 1986.

Regarding my no cabin heat , I've only been achieving frustration and wasted time so far.

Coolant topped off. Fuses good.

I suspected the water control valve. I removed many hoses in a very tight space and removed the valve. I jumped 12 volts to it and it seems to open and close fine.

With human lung pressure, I blew through the heater core (AKA: matrix). all clear.

As Stu says, I gonna check the heater water pump.

Question: Is there a way to test the pump other than jumping 12 Volts to it? I did that on an extra pump I have and it just sparked. I'm afraid to try it on my good pump.

THX jeff xj8

 

They seem to either run or not run. Idle car, set heat to HI, fan to max. Compare from not running, place fingers against it and you should be able to feel it running. They have a gentle buzzing vibration when they're spinning.

 

Hmm, I might leave it for summer then! Half tempted by better speakers one day, so could do them together.

Bulbs ordered anyway, plus a pair of microswitches from another thread to fix my old brakelight switch.

 

Absolutely a pair of tasks to couple together.
Gives time to find replacement door card retaining clips.

 

To test the pump you can literally just touch it when the engine is running, or it may operate with just the ignition on but I can’t recall just now. It’s supposed to run at all times to circulate the coolant, so even in summer months it should run. It’s an easy fix, it’s worth sorting out.

Door card removal takes mere moments, just be careful not to chew up the screw cover on the door handle recess. It’s nice to have all the switches illuminated, I’ve got piles of bulbs and switches for that very reason!

 

THX Stu and Phil,

I ran the engine till hot, and turned heat on and I felt no vibration of the water pump and the hoses at the pump were not hot either.

I removed and jumped 12 volts from a car battery to the pump (and to an extra pump I have). Neither ran, but sparked when I touched contact.

I can't tell if the motor brushes are good or not, pls see photo.

Parts Geek price for new motor is 400 USD. and I'm not sure that will solve my problem.

Anyone have any ideas?

jeff xj8

 

Those bushes are worn out. A new bush would have the copper braided cable near the top of the slot it's coming out of. As the bush wears, the top part where the cable attaches moves down the slot.

 

THX Hooli,

Hopefully we've found the problem. Would this condition result in it sparking at the terminals when 12 V is applied?

 

You can buy new brushes and solder them in yourself or have someone do it, I bought a pack of 10 them for around £15 a few years ago which is a lot less than the cost of a whole new unit.

Give it a good clean and fit new brushes and it’ll go on working.

 

At a guess yes,as it'll be conducting some electric hence the spark. But not well enough to run the motor.

 

Eureka! I've got 12V at the connection to the cabin heat water pump. (and I did not before).

The water pump (and the spare one I had too) were so fried they produce a short circuit and blew their fuse (14 in box B)

Previous mechanic, removed the relay for the pump (R-1 in box A), isolating the problem. (Car was located in South Carolina, a warm place)

I confirmed by continuity checks from the pump terminal to the relay tabs and 12V at one of the relay tabs to ground.

Plugged in a relay, ran the engine, heat switch on, and got 12V at the terminal to the pump. (did not connect to the pump, until I get a new one.

I've got a used pump (50 $USD) ordered, from Peter in Alllentown, PA.

I'm stoked., jeffxj8

 

Also, Happy Thanksgiving to you, wherever in the world you are.

So, much to be grateful for.

 

Result, previous bodges always make fault finding so much more fun.

 

Happy Thanksgiving and a warm cabin for winter!

 

I didn't do it, but I got a phone call from the garage to say my XJR is ready having passed it's MOT along with new timing chains & a powerhouse bottom pulley fitted. I can't get to pick it up till tomorrow though.

I'm rather shocked that the only failure on the MOT was the front plate delaminating so it's hard to read. Most years it needs £1k or more of welding! (I'll say this quietly but it might be running out of rot).