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Not necessarily. In aj27 engine, injectors are fired one by one. Not in a row(or batch). It has so called sequential injection. Aj27 ecm can not determine is injector there or not. There is no onboard diagnose for it. It recognizes not firing injector as misfire and shut off corresponding coil.
So when injector if sticking shut or ecm has bad solder joint, result is misfire.
It also threw a P1316, ( Injector Circuit / IDM Code Detected) code along the the P0304, ( Cylinder 4 Misfire) code. Not sure about the P1316 code though. Seems to be running like normal at the moment.
Working on cracks but not splits in driver/s seat. I am using a cream leather upholstery product to fill the cracks and then will tint the area with Cashmere color from a tube. Also, doing the same to the arm rest on the console to restore the finish that has been rubbed off in a spot about 2X3 inches. Expect the work to result in surfaces that are next to new and hard to discern the area of work.
Anybody have experience in doing the same or something similar?
It also threw a P1316, ( Injector Circuit / IDM Code Detected) code along the the P0304, ( Cylinder 4 Misfire) code. Not sure about the P1316 code though. Seems to be running like normal at the moment.
I ran my car without one injector. Ids/sdd did not find any but misfire code. Also I accidentally ran engine without driver side bank injectors. Engine ran on four cyninders. Still no injector codes. I'd say that is your tester fault code interpretation is off or injector is just wrote there as other possibility.
Many forum members have replaced their mast for exactly the same reason.
I keep one "in stock" just in case however lately I have been hand washing
the Duchess, as I have noticed a bit of abrasion on the paint of my other vehicles
that I've run through the automatic.
My radio is connected to a phone system on FM and Sirius radio on another FM channel. The radio does not receive AM channels but FM reception is good. I have Sirius installed in most of my cars and Motorhome. I could have let the antenna alone but li wanted it fixed.
Noticed some rust bubbles at passenger rear corner of rear window at seam. Not a spot of rust anywhere else on car. Cleaned out with dremel, a tiny bit of Bondo and touch up paint. Everyone should lift up the edge of the rubber seal and check as this is a common spot. I guess water sits there.
The opposite corner is one of the areas where I found rust on my 2001 (F35063); current unit does not show any rust, but one very small spot low on the right corner just behind the door. I think I will leave it alone (Bondo and I don't get along) for now.
Well, it was last week when the sun was still out, and not today ....
Gave her an extended wash (dust, dust dust, even in a B2 parking), and conditioned all leather.
That great smell when you enter the car is slowly coming back ....
I'm tracking down a bad misfire. ( restricted performance ,engine light flashing, pulsing rough running especially at idle, gradual onset of symptoms)
1999 Vanden with a 2001 xj engine (same cylinder and trouble code numeration system, right?)
Codes: p0305, p1314, p0355
:Looking through previous threads, I think we've all been here.
Because #5 is specifically coded, it's my suspect.
I'm going to replace all the plugs, clean connectors, and replace #5 coil (with a new looking one from an extra engine I have around).
I removed #5 plug. Its damp and smells like gas but looks ok.
Do you guys think I'm going about this right?
jeff xj8
Yeah, I had a misfire that didn't cause a code to be thrown about faulty coils. The insulation was breaking down between the nose of the coil and the rubber bungy - leaked oil had carbonized and was tracking the spark away. The coil module itself was not faulty otherwise.
New coil, new plug, solved. Definitely worth investigating.
Went through a carwash -- remembered to turn the radio off -- but came off the line with a flat tire with a chunk of metal embedded right into it. I suspect it was part of the "track" on the wash. No response from the carwash, of course. Tire couldn't be repaired and I had to replace it.
Happily the seller I bought this from had kept the car in pristine condition, so the full jack and spare set was ready to go and I was able to change it myself with no issues.
Next job: I have no heat in the vanden plas, and intermittent heat in the xj8.
Its getting cold in Maryland, USA.
Jeff xj8
I managed to improve the heat in my XJ by turning off AUTO and then setting the heat to LO then to HI over and over as I was driving. Exercised the valve enough to clear whatever crystallized trash was stopping it from moving.
Next job: I have no heat in the vanden plas, and intermittent heat in the xj8.
Its getting cold in Maryland, USA.
Jeff xj8
I would suggest taking a look at your auxiliary coolant pump in the engine bay, the brushes wear out in the motor and it stops heat reaching the cabin. Replacement motor units can be expensive but you can buy brushes and replace them yourself if you are handy with a soldering iron or know someone who is.
It’s also worth checking all the hoses are connected in the right order because this too can cause low cabin heat.
Daft question time, should the window switches on the passenger doors, front and rear, be illuminated? mine aren't but it's occurred to me they often are on other cars.
Daft question time, should the window switches on the passenger doors, front and rear, be illuminated? mine aren't but it's occurred to me they often are on other cars.
Mine are, as are all the switches in the switch pack between the rear seats (2001 Daimler Super V8).
