Maybe the 3k rev cut on the S/C’d cars is because of young whipper snappers from doing neutral drops and shearing off the ring and pinion.

Sadly they still sell plastic impeller water pumps.

 

The fan coming on after parking is a sure clue the thermostat could be due a replacement. The only time I’ve seen a gauge on a 308 go above the middle was when my thermostat failed on My 4.0 Sovereign back in 2010 when I was driving across France on my way home. Each time I parked the car the fans would run on. To try and keep temps low I had to have AC off and the heater on full with windows open.

These cars also have a secondary auxiliary water pump which runs constantly with engine running that pushes coolant through to the heater matrix, these often go overlooked when the brushes wear out on the motor.

May also be worth checking all your hoses are connected correctly around, especially the octopus hose and the plastic lines running to the expansion tank.

 

I know the hoses will be right, they've not been fiddled with in months & this is recent. It's stopped doing it now though, but it's not been on such long trips. I know about the heater pump, I've actually got a spare that came with my old Sov as it turned out not to need it. Being a XJR mines also got the intercooler pump but I know the effect of that not working & it's not the fan running on.

I'll add a thermostat to the big list it's getting booked in for.

 

I have a 99XJ8 that was in storage for over 10 years. Decided to get it back out and use it. Had been in climate control basement and covered entire time. Started on fresh battery and fuel. Began hearing thumping noise coming from trunk. The more I drove the louder the noise became.order shocks and read everything I could find on how to go about changing rear shocks. Today I spend 7.5 hours changing the worn/dry rotted rear shocks. One contributor to this forum said it was one hour per shock and gave much detail in what to be done. I was able to do it in simpler steps but it definitely took a while longer but it sounds and rides great. Now to set my sights on changing the front shocks because on first test drive the thump went from the back to the front.

 

Fronts are likely the shock mounts. Readily available, today. Buy the Mehle brand over Uro if available.

Just replaced the Uro's that have been on mine for two and a half years -- dead quiet up front. Thought the noise in the rear were dried out rear mounts and isolaters: in fact it was the donut retainers for the exhaust pipe (silicone spray quieted).

 

I'm glad it's not just me. 10,000 miles and one of the Üro mounts has disintegrated.

Doesn't help the shock is seized up, though.

 

You guys were all right about this being the thermostat. I used the car today & remembered to stick my dongle on it for live data. Engine temps were sitting 95-102c where as I recall several months ago in hotter weather 85-93c was more typical. I'm planning a bigger intercooler pump to go with a larger pulley when the chains get done. So I'll have to order bits ready for that, I'll probably do the 'stat & pump myself as there easy enough. I don't have the space or tools to do the chains & knowing my back I'd get stuck halfway & unable to work on it, which is annoying as it's a job I know I could do.

 

I wish that our cars were equipped with an "actual" temperature gage
instead of the "dummy" gage currently installed. The Duchess has a
inline temperature gage that I use to check things, but the only problem
is I have to lift the bonnet to check it.

 

I've heard of a kit to change the gauge into a real gauge. I've got a cheap bluetooth OBDII dongle that lives in the car so I plugged it in & put the free Piston app on live data to watch the temps while driving.

I agree though, a lying gauge is no use to anyone.

 

The gauge kit is called Real Gauge and I believe it had its origins on this forum. Way back when I first joined in 2009 there were quite a few guys fitting these kits.

https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xk8--...realgauge.html

 

Yesterday I installed ecm repaired by me back to the car. Engine started up fine but it does not talk to the CAN bus at all. It may be ecm replace time..

 

I think you need someone with the correct Jaguar software configuration system to marry the repaired ECU to the CAN (actually, CAN to ECU).

 

Had a base from a broken office chair and a left over seat.

 

After replacing mine it still runs fans for few minutes so most probably it is normal

 

Nice, now your buddies can properly relax while you suffering under the car

 

Well I'm going to do mine as I'm sure it didn't used to have the fans running on, having thought about it I'm sure I don't remember it before. Why else would I suddenly notice it?

I always think of it as a french trait, because my dad had a Renault 21 when I was a kid & it's the first car I ever noticed doing it.

 

I have had five of these cars over the last 16 years in 3.2, 4.0 and 4.0 SC and not one of them has ever had the fans run on after switch off except on the occasion where my thermostat failed. Even in 35°c+ temperatures the fans don’t run after shutdown and I’m someone who runs AC gear round as well.

My Dad had a Renault 19 16V in the 90s, which was a high performance car in it’s day, and that used to run a water pump to keep coolant pumping round the engine for a few minutes after shutdown to protect it.

 

First I'll look for faults what I may have been done. This is the oe ecm to this car.
If it goes to ecm replace. I have wds and vcm for it.

 

URO upper front mounts on my 01 XJR currently intact, installed on 8/8/2022 at about 125k miles, now reading 181k miles. Plenty of racket from both the front and rear suspension, haven't started digging in yet, can't rule out the front upper mounts but they haven't decompressed like the originals did when they let go.

In my own yesterday/today news, pulled the supercharger belt off to see if the racket I think I'm hearing from the engine that sounds kind of spark-knockish is the bearing on the supercharger tensioner pulley or not. Pulley spins nicely, but it does have a squeak as it rotates. Noise disappeared with the belt off as did most of the oomph the car has. Promptly put the belt back on before the drive into work this morning.

So I think I need to swap the bearing in the pulley, virtually every other rotating thing on the front of the engine has been replaced by now. Off to find the bearing number so I can press a new one in...does anyone know if the retaining torx bolt on this pulley is left or right handed? Its super tight and I snapped a cheap torx bit on it already.

 

Seems I cannot get my 2000 VDP (J2) to just run without throwing codes. ( My other 2000 VDP (J3) never throws a code.) I recently replaced the transmission and solenoids and that fixed the shifting problems. Now I have these codes popping up after a few weeks since the change. I did replace the mass airflow sensor with the one from my other car but the code returned after a week.