Hey Jeff, so sorry to hear about the accident. Hope everyone is ok. It’s difficult to tell what damage there is.

 

Yes. that was my thought as well. I am really glad there was no serious injury.

 

drivers side side air bag deployed ( i didnt even know it had one). he spun out , 180 degrees on an exit ramp, wet roads, jumped a curb, struck and broke off a light pole and the pole fell on top of the car striking the top and the hood (directly on the leaper). still runs. im looking for a vanden plas with a bad motor / trans that i can buy and replace with the engine / trans from my wreck. son sustained a concussion, MRI scan shows no damage. They say its wrong to love material things...but... and you guys are right to remind me of the important thing, everyone was able to walk away.

 

Sorry to hear about your son. I hope he recovers quickly.

Until you pointed it out, I didn’t even see the light pole on the drivers side. Wow….

 

Why am I thinking your lad had spotted the 'Trac' button & pushed it shortly before this happened?

 

Replaced the SRS module with a junkyard pull.


The always-fun task of removing the radio in this car. Buried down in there, bolted to the transmission tunnel is the SRS module.

New one in place. Connected the battery back up and powered up the diagnostics box:

That'll work.

No SRS light now. Much better

Phil

 

Great work.

 

Welp, that ain't right.


Applied the electro-sparkle-stick.


Beat the door back into shape, welded it and the A pillar where it had cracked.


Door now does door things again.

Better.

 

Similar issue, similar outcome . . . different method. I can't do the sparky hot stick thingy. Cheers


Busted stay arm


Replacement stay arm with strengthening washers


Looking into the door


A pillar before cowling going on

Fiddly but straightforward enough . . . . and boy . . . . what a difference. No more door cracking on opening or shutting!!!

 

Ultimately what it needed from the outset. That's too much force on the nuts without some method of spreading the load.

 

Since it is my time too to replace fuel pumps on my car because SC pump is jammed. I'm thinking about going with the dual pump way or single aftermarket pump that has same amout flow that both oem 's together. Price wise there is big no difference. Availability is other thing. Aftermarket can be have from the local speed shop. OE style pump is from the England. It seems to that my car is running fine on single pump only. So there is no hurry about this. Works fine even during wot. Fule mixture does not go to lean, not at all.

 

Cleared P0455 again.
I think I need to replace the gas cap seal.


Drove a bunch of miles today without much trouble.
Rear suspension is too soft for these bridges, ends up in a bucking bouncing motion.
New shocks, too.

Phil

 

Drove it to work for the first time since mid-February. Loved it, forgot how powerful this thing is.

 

I just purchased this 19999 Vanden, in great cosmetic shape, 114 K miles for 1000 USD. Timing chain broken, engine damaged. The plan is to move engine and trans from the 2001 xj8 my son wrecked into it. I'm in over my head. Question, are the engine and trans interchangeable between vehicles?

 

Engine swap, minus transmission is the easiest by far. With a few choice words and a bit of a stretch you can swap the engine without even having to take the hood off. Aircon will need regas. Suggest doing the oil gallery seal and rear main when you have the engine out.
Nice looking machine. Good price.

 

I think '99 is after the AJ26-AJ27 change so should be a straight swap. Quickest check I know of, is the AJ26 has a vacuum unit on the TB to control the cruise control & the AJ27 doesn't.

Either way I'd keep the spare gearbox as well, either as a spare & rebuilt with the uprated valve body or to sell on if the one you're using has already been upgraded.

 

I have a late 2000 (October build) with an early '99 engine in. Straight swap on it. Did mine by myself in am afternoon with a Harbor Freight engine crane, a trolley jack and some jackstands.

You'll need an assortment of extension bars for your ratchet wrench but pulling it out doesn't need any special tools other than quick release

Remove the torque converter bolts from underneath, undo, pull engine round, repeat. Undo exhaust downpipes and fixing clamps.
Two long bolts through the front engine mounts come out from underneath.
Remove belt, take power steering pump off and tie it up to the frame rail with zipties or string.
Pipes off, harness off. Suspend engine with straps around the underneath, undo bell housing bolts, wiggle forwards and lift.

Phil

 

THX for the optimism and advice Phil.

I moved the wreck into the garage but I 'm a little nervous to get started.

I'm going to take the transmission out too. Should I separate the engine and trans or remove them as one?

Jeff

 

Unsure, I only swapped the engine on mine.

 

The transmission I’d install is the lower mileage one and keep the other trans as a replacement.

Phil, I’d check the o rings at the hoses on both charcoal canisters. Also check inside the metal tube for any rust as that will certainly keep the solenoid propped open at the canister.