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I was getting P0333, bank 2 (USA driver,s side correct?) knock sensor. No other codes.
I installed a cheaper , rock auto, replacement, above pictured. The terminals did not match. I soldered the original terminal onto it and installed. Immediate restricted performance and p0333 again with big intermittent loss of power.
I soldered and reinstalled the original. So far so good but I know it's going to give p0333 again sometime. I guess I should get an OEM $$ nock sensor. Is there any way to test the knock sensor itself?
I also broke up the breather tube it was cold and brittle. I'm in a worse position than when I started but a least I'm cruising, before they salt the roads.
Concerning the knock sensor, a new oem knock sensor is right at 202,000 ohms for an X308 car. Since there is no ohm check on this according to the workshop manual, it is my opinion that a used KS measuring 199,000 ohms or less is no good. However, if you went by the above posted ohms, keep in mind not every DVOM will read exactly the same so take that into consideration when measuring ohms. Those numbers are what was displayed on my meter.
Also, if you’re talking about the part load breather tube on the B bank (or bank 2), then it’s not terribly difficult to attach a new breather tube to the old broken one via duct tape and fish it through on a N/A engine. No need to R&R the intake manifold for that job. Don’t repair that plastic tube, replace.
Last edited by Addicted2boost; Dec 9, 2020 at 06:09 AM.
I took a look at possible bike racks, and managed to not find anything that would work. Did the x308 come with a roof rack option?
@Xanzar
Several companies make a custom made, bolt in trailer hitch. I purchased mine through AutoZone via mail order It cost me about $180 USD with installation parts included, took all of about an hour for me to install drilling 6 holes in the trunk sideframe rails, (7 if you include a hole for a wire harness) and it is all but invisible except the square connection tightly up under the bottom bumper cover.
That was on my 2000 Xj8 to tow a 1100 pound single axle trailer. You might use that to mount a trailer hitch type bike rack..
Note if you have backup sensors, you will need to mount the bikes high enough so that the bike wheels are not detected by the sensors.
Last edited by StagByTriumph; Dec 9, 2020 at 09:14 AM.
....
Also, if you’re talking about the part load breather tube on the B bank (or bank 2), then it’s not terribly difficult to attach a new breather tube to the old broken one via duct tape and fish it through on a N/A engine. No need to R&R the intake manifold for that job. Don’t repair that plastic tube, replace.
@Addicted2boost
I agree you do not need to remove the intake to replace the part load hose. However, I replaced the flex crinkle lengths with rubber vacuum hose with new connectors - which I have new spares for those OEM connectors cheap, $5 each plus post and you need three.
I understand what you mean and it sounds like a good fix. The only caveat to where I live is that it’s hot here and using a rubber hose mixed with a pretty significant amount of oil flowing through that rubber hose means it’ll expand and will sweat oil through the hose itself. I know different parts of the world tend to experience different situations than others but that’s my experience. 🙂 This thread reminds me that I need to install an oil catch can like my 98’ XJR has but on my 03’ SV8.
I understand what you mean and it sounds like a good fix. The only caveat to where I live is that it’s hot here and using a rubber hose mixed with a pretty significant amount of oil flowing through that rubber hose means it’ll expand and will sweat oil through the hose itself. I know different parts of the world tend to experience different situations than others but that’s my experience. 🙂 This thread reminds me that I need to install an oil catch can like my 98’ XJR has but on my 03’ SV8.
@Addicted2boost Automotive quality vacuum hose is reinforced and is chemically resistant to fuel and oils and it is vacuum (air) tight, so it will not sweat out oils as oils are larger particles than air, and vacuum lines are designed to seal air. The OE corrugated vacuum lines just dry out in hot environments, harden and deteriorate as they are ABS plastic not automotive grade rubber. JLR went to the corrugated lines to save on both weight and cost, not longevity.
The thought of the oil catcher is interesting because these engines do seem to move a lot of oil through the crankcase connections certainly when the valve stem seals start to deteriorate - root cause. But having said that, when I refreshed all the coolant hoses on my x350 including new intake manifold gaskets, the intake manifold had about 6-8 oz of dirty oil settled in the low points that I swabbed out with rags. The engine had only completed 68k miles. I've had that oil in both of my x308's intake manifolds, but later in miles - over $100k.
Spent the better part of a fortnight either on my back or on my knees swapping out the old diff for the replacement diff of no particular mileage and also changing both wheel bearings. My old diff had been on its way out for some time, but decided to give up the ghost just as winter set in. Started a-shouting and a-wailing.
Never removed the rear end before, so this was one hell of a learning curve for me. Getting at those exhaust hangers.... My oh my! And in the rain outside too. Phew!
Out with the old, in with the less old but not screaming diff
@chris-jag While you are in there and have all that extra room, change your fuel filter and top damper rubbers, and of course, all your rear suspension bushings, check both sides evaporative emissions piping for cracks / breaks. Some of that "while you are in there" stuff.
@chris-jag While you are in there and have all that extra room, change your fuel filter and top damper rubbers, and of course, all your rear suspension bushings, check both sides evaporative emissions piping for cracks / breaks. Some of that "while you are in there" stuff.
I was just trying to achieve the basic swap in this instance. More than enough for my nerves :-) Might try all that stuff when the weather has improved. Don't fancy spending any longer than necessary at this time of year! Unfortunately for me, I had changed the fuel filter only a couple of weeks back! I did put new springs in though. Needed compressors for those.
One thing you should definitely do while the diff is out is inspect the breather on top and make sure it's clean and clear
It's usually quite hard to get to otherwise
Sorry for delay in getting back and thanks for the input. I've been distracted by non Jaguar stuff.
Now I"m getting P0174 and P0171, system lean bank one and two. Probably its because I'm driving around with a broken off breather tube and it's sucking in too much air. Still no P0333. So far so good with the reinstalled knock sensor.
The replacement , wrong, KS was the above from Advanced Auto. I found the one on Rock Auto and its in my cart.
I ordered a new breather tube, above picture. The one on the car is fragile as the wings of a butterfly. I'll NOT remove the intake manifold but I will have remove some stuff to get to it. It's going to be a tight.
I'm going to try to read / understand the resistance readings.
Chris, I did the same job, bearings too, except not outdoors.
The exhaust hangers on top of the dif were the hardest part. I didn't re mount them until the yoke on the left side axle started banging on the exhaust pipe. I could not bend the U bracket around the rubber mount to line up the bolt and had to rig one side with a heater hose clamp.
I wish I had changed the shocks while I had it out. I had to go back and do that later.
Bosch
Knock Sensor Part No. 261231185 Warranty: LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENTDiscount 3GX3BX -$8.75
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Carnival Kid and Addicted to Boost,
Sorry for delay in getting back and thanks for the input. I've been distracted by non Jaguar stuff.
Now I"m getting P0174 and P0171, system lean bank one and two. Probably its because I'm driving around with a broken off breather tube and it's sucking in too much air. Still no P0333. So far so good with the reinstalled knock sensor.
The replacement , wrong, KS was the above from Advanced Auto. I found the one on Rock Auto and its in my cart.
I ordered a new breather tube, above picture. The one on the car is fragile as the wings of a butterfly. I'll NOT remove the intake manifold but I will have remove some stuff to get to it. It's going to be a tight.
I'm going to try to read / understand the resistance readings.
Thanks and Merry Christmas to All, Jeff xj8
@ Jeff XJ8
I used a wire coat hanger carefully inserted front to back while bending to keep above the knock sensors wiring, then drew the replacement hose carefully back to front taping the hook edge pretty easy actually. Knock sensor can be done with some finesse, long reach tools and tape, but you will be swearing alot. If you have vacuum leak issues, just pull the intake and redo the gaskets while you are in there
Last edited by StagByTriumph; Dec 15, 2020 at 12:03 PM.
New to me receivers arrived today, I'm gonna ceramic coat before install & be ahead of the game. Curious to what's involved with install I hope I don't have to remove entire seats lol.
Pre-coating
Comparison
Finished
They look great w/ natural lighting much richer to the eyes not camera optics, well pleased.
Swapped out a slightly buckled alloy wheel for an eBay sourced equivalent. Wow, what a difference that makes on the motorway. Now if only I had noticed that a few years ago!
Guess you've got to keep your eyes open for these things.
Almost had my car binned by a speeding camaro, what can I do to increase throttle response without adding nos. I back ordered 17" wheels and p zero tires for the summer.
Almost had my car binned by a speeding camaro, what can I do to increase throttle response without adding nos. I back ordered 17" wheels and p zero tires for the summer.