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XJRfan, 2003 is the best X308 R out if the bunch. Yours gives me inspiration to get back in the XJR game...but I’d have to move the Saleen to do that. Tough decisions...
I checked my vin on nhtsa.gov , and it reads a sovereign which is kind of cool(I mean my vin starts with SAJDA, which indicates that it was manufactured in a Daimler plant) ,also took a picture at work a few days ago ; also lost my passenger side front fog light, the bulb must have exploded because glass was everywhere, I've got a replacement coming this Friday so its all good. Still needs a paint job, but it looks nice from 30feet , the rain makes a decent clearcoat
- Upper and Lower Ball Joints, both sides.
- Tie Rod ends, both sides.
- Upper Shock Mounts, both sides.
- Front Sway Bar linkage, both sides.
- New Electronic Sport Struts, Rear.
- New cross drilled Rotors and Brembo pads, front.
- Twist In spacers on all four coil springs to get her back to factory height.
(Pic was taken one week before all of this work was done. She was still riding low. She looked Sporty but rode and drove like poo.) And I'll be honest, I didn't want to spend bunches more coin to replace all four coil springs.
- New Space Saver Spare.
She could use a paint job to address some pealing clear coat and a few bubbles of rust.
All in all......she's getting on quite well for a girl of her age and mileage.
Were those new sports struts expensive? Only seen them for £400 each myself. Noticed any improvement afterwards?
Was thinking its about time I changed my upper shock mounts in the front too. Need to get a drill out to get the right diameter though.
A new car wash opened in town and i thought it would be a good idea to take a car with almost no clear coat in for a wash. my chrome and wheels are really really shiny. Can't wait for the respray and ppf later next year (I think june/july would be a nice time to have the work started)
Both rear wheel bearings have gone on me!
After only 10k miles and barely one year, I now need to ascertain whether this is my fault or did I get two dodgy bearings from ebay.
They were Quinton Hazell, so I've ordered NAPA this time.
I've not made any heavy landings, so I'm somewhat perplexed!
Chris, I never knew Napa was out in the uk. My first choice in wheel bearings is SKF & Timken as my second. Both really good quality in my opinion. Do you think you were able to properly tighten the ABS nut on the backside of those front wheel bearings?
This is the rears, but yeah, I'm getting the feeling that buying whatever seemed a reasonable deal from ebay was a bad move. The originals were definitely timken, which I've actually found hard to find here in the UK. Maybe there's just a plethora of no names that makes it difficult.
The nut was on very tight on both sides (both have gone bad) with a new lock nut and red thread lock. Much harder to remove this time round than when I did it last year - after finding the lock nut was loose enough to turn with your fingers! Zero play on one side, but using a stethoscope there's a milling type noise. A little play in the other, with surround sound type noise. And that's when it's on axle stands at turn over.
I'm going to replace with the already ordered ebay sourced NAPA brand [hopefully it is really good quality], swallow my pride and also try and find the correct timken refs for these cars. Hoping That'll give me at least six months of "enjoyment".
I'll stick to your suggestions in future.
Needed to use a hub puller this time round. Although that needed grinding so it would fit. Hub Literally fell out last year.
Last edited by chris-jag; Nov 27, 2020 at 03:59 AM.
Yeah, I reread your post & realized I made a mistake. You said one side didn’t have any play in it? When grabbing the wheel at the 6 and 12 o’clock position, you’re supposed to have a little bit of play on it. Behind one of those wheel bearings is a metal collar which determines your amount of play in it. Make sure there’s one in there.
I bought another xjr 100 3 weeks ago. Trying to decide which one to keep! Both are quite nice. The recently bought one is on the left. I actually use to see it pass by my house when I had my silver XJ sport. Freaked when I saw it. Little did I know i'd end up with that car It has 35k less miles than the one i've had since February. But i've done decent amount of maintenance/repairs on my higher mile one. Or maybe I'll keep both lol.
Brandon, I know what you mean about what to keep and what to ditch. It’s difficult to decide because you did much work on one and then the other one pops up as a deal you can’t pass up. I did the same thing in June. 03’ SV8 that I wasn’t even looking for showed up. The guy called me October 2019 and we talked about it for 45 minutes. So now we have a 00’ XJ8 that’s my wife’s, 98’ XJR that’s mine but is going to be my daughters after this school year and now an 03’ SV8 that I modded. If you have the time, space and money to keep them both, why not?
ECM Versions and Part Number compatibility - Change VIN ?
This weekend I changed my original 2000 XJ8 NA x308 ECM Part Number LNF1410BC/303 with an ECM from a 2002 XJ8 NA Part Number LNG1410BD/503.
I thought I would experiment as I found a cheap ECM on fleabay that I noticed from the sale photos had been repaired by AUTOECU.COM with security tape labels, so a good indicator it had been gone over to at least a very basic inspection level. There were a few dents in the tin cover that I removed and smoothed.
After a very simple Immobilization Setup in IDS v 125, a twist of the key and an instant start and varoom to life, stabile idle after a few seconds, then adjust to normal idle after a short warmup. Throttle response seems instant. So after I complete replacing some cam cover seals, a new pair of upstream O2 sensors, leaking oil pressure switch and some undercarriage cleaning I'll go for a drive, but all seems fine swapping from one PN ECM to an updated and different part number for the same vehicle type and engine type.
After verifying a start/run, I performed an ECM "New Module Configuration" which, again, start-run no problems.
It is nice to see GREENbattery indicator on the SDD/IDS display which with some experimentation on my 40 amp power supply seems to go from YELLOW to GREEN at ~13.2 volts, RED to Yellow at ~12.6 volts.
My thanks to Bob @motorcarman for his expert input.
My new question is when I do an ECM data dump, the VIN is still the original donor car - actually it does not match what the VIN the salvage yard put on their asset tag either but that an be explained because the ECM was from a different vehicle having been repaired by AUTOECM.com so the mismatch, but it would like to change the to my VIN.
Q1. How do I change the VIN in the ECM with IDS? It seems to me that a replacement procedure would program the NEW ECM with the correct VIN.
I also note the vehicle configuration must be stored in a different spot as when I performed an ECM update, it updated the donor ECM to Calibration File V9EZ and instructed to place LNF1410BF on the Campaign label, which is most likely specific to my VIN build requirements.
Q2. I'd like to find some info on the structure of the ECU hex file data dump.
I took a look at possible bike racks, and managed to not find anything that would work. Did the x308 come with a roof rack option?
I've read that people have success with Thule racks on their X308, Thule makes hitch, trunk and roof varieties. Check out this site, scroll down to about the middle of the page and you can select your Jaguar and bring up matches. https://www.thule.com/en-us/bike-rac...ks?q=mMtaKYh8F
It has 35k less miles than the one i've had since February. But i've done decent amount of maintenance/repairs on my higher mile one. Or maybe I'll keep both lol.
ECM Versions and Part Number compatibility - Change VIN ?
