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Ever since I bought the car a few weeks ago, none of the license plate lights or interior trunk lights were working. Got an autel version of the power probe which helped give me a direction. The voltage changing with the trunk going up and down was the giveaway. Thankfully it was only 4 wires easy to access and solder. I'm a little worried it will happen again over time with the wiring showing its age. If it does, I'll have to replace all the wiring in that section.
Yep.....that particular wiring loom has been the cause of many a Jaguar owners
source of various issues. The designers did not seem to be too worried about
longevity in their design. On the Duchess, I have a low-tension spring which
keeps it out of harm's way.
The replacement kit came with two different types of chains. The secondaries , short chains, left in photo, were good. The primaries, right in photo, would not fit on gears. Are there jags that use two different types on the same motor, or jags that use the type on the right? Can anyone think of an explanation other than I ordered or Euro Cars sent, the wrong primary chains? (I reinstalled the old primaries BTW) Jeffxj8
If my memory serves me right; from 2003 and the 4.2L engines, the primary chains are of the new, tougher type and the secondarys still of the "old" type.
The main concern if that its the case, is still the secondary chains (between the cams on each cylinderbank) if they are of the old plastic/old improved plastic type tensioners.
The replacement kit came with two different types of chains. The secondaries , short chains, left in photo, were good. The primaries, right in photo, would not fit on gears. Are there jags that use two different types on the same motor, or jags that use the type on the right? Can anyone think of an explanation other than I ordered or Euro Cars sent, the wrong primary chains? (I reinstalled the old primaries BTW) Jeffxj8
Two types of chain. The later type of the multi link. The tensioners for the single link don't fit the multi link and vice versa. Single link is fine but gets noisy as it ages and stretches (100k+).
You have the later "updated" chains in that kit. You need the earlier chain set, or get the updated gearset to fit the multilink. The updated set uses the single link chains between the camshafts.
There's some non mix-n-match items you've put together there.
TL;DR:- you got the wrong chain and tensioner kit.
Edit: I went look in the box I kept behind from doing mine.
I've got a new single link chain and sliders if you want them, my kit had both types in (mine uses multi link). Might fit in a $11 flat rate box, I think. If not it'll go in a medium which I think is $16
Phil
Last edited by Philip_A; May 15, 2025 at 03:55 PM.
Installed my 100% Aliexpress 3.5 inch intake. Still have to install my catch can and plumb in the recirculation (which was already broken and venting to atmosphere anyway). It sounds great and I think it feels quicker but that might be placebo. It's a fun project and it only cost me €115 in total, including the catch can and plumbing for it.
Installed my 100% Aliexpress 3.5 inch intake. Still have to install my catch can and plumb in the recirculation (which was already broken and venting to atmosphere anyway). It sounds great and I think it feels quicker but that might be placebo. It's a fun project and it only cost me €115 in total, including the catch can and plumbing for it.
Colour me intrigued. Do you have a link for this (or should I just go searching... there can't be many X308 intakes on AliExpress)
Dug out mystery switch and led which was installed by previous owner and i never had a chance to understand what for
Resulted it was anti radar
The thing went to trash, we have better tools for that purpose today
Finally im at peace
Yes, this switch was irritating me for years and getting rid of it took me whole 15 minutes, lazy me
But nothing really wrong with modding looms, I've used cd changer cable to wire parking camera and audio amp signal between the cabin and the boot, still have few lines left for the future use
Took the driver's side cam cover off and added RTV along the lower half because I kept getting the "fake bacon" of burning oil; something changed because I now no longer get that smell, just "hot engine oil" so it's not on the manifold any more but it's maybe still leaking. Possibly is just leftovers because I've only done about 30 miles since I added the sealant. (The cam covers are slightly warped, stupid plastic nonsense).
Shall see if that continues, that leaves only the front cover or a leaking head gasket. Passenger side was fixed by sealant on the cam cover.
This talk of random switches reminds me. There's a random power cable poked up the side of my dash to the driver's corner of the windscreen, I've always had a suspicion it's linked to a rattle under the dash over bumps. I should really have a look one day, as I've been saying since 2019 when I got the car.