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Edit to add, as far as I know the second charcoal canister your diagram shows just connects to the output of the first one so the system before them is identical.
In totally unrelated news that shows how observant I am...
I got told on a FB group the other day the Jag badge in the bootlid handle is a button to unlock the boot. I'd never noticed it even pressed in or feels like a switch when you do. It doesn't work though, should it?
It is probably just dirty; a little WD 40 or equivalent and work it; key slot should get a shot too and work it. So simple with the FOB until the battery dies.
It would be wise to test the keyhole next to the rear emblem to
ensure you can access the battery should it need a charge,
Just note that you have to turn the key with enough force past about 45° of turn that your feel like the metal part of the key is rotating in the plastic. Then clunk, it'll open.
Jag badge moves about an eighth of an inch, just a springy button.
Just note that you have to turn the key with enough force past about 45° of turn that your feel like the metal part of the key is rotating in the plastic. Then clunk, it'll open.
Jag badge moves about an eighth of an inch, just a springy button.
Phil
My key only gets used to open the trunk often enough to make sure it works if the fob or the battery does fail. It doesn't require any more effort to use it than it does to use it in one of the door locks. My guess is yours must be "gummed up" somewhere - either the lock or the latch itself - or the bar between the lock and the latch (I'm presuming there's a bar or something making that lnk - must be rubbing against something?
My key only gets used to open the trunk often enough to make sure it works if the fob or the battery does fail. It doesn't require any more effort to use it than it does to use it in one of the door locks. My guess is yours must be "gummed up" somewhere - either the lock or the latch itself - or the bar between the lock and the latch (I'm presuming there's a bar or something making that lnk - must be rubbing against something?
Yup, that amount of force on a Tibbe key is always fear inducing. Mine only gets used for the ignition.
It’s funny this mention of the boot lock. Whilst I was aware the boot lid on my parts car was from another car as the paint doesn’t quite match, I discovered the lock wasn’t swapped from the original. What led me to this discovery was when I wanted one of my empty boxes out the boot only to find the battery has gone flat. Oh well, I’ll just power it from the engine bay when I get back to the workshop, I found another box to use in my actual XJ.
Why have I got all these boxes? To store the parts in when I strip the cars down in the spring for the restoration of my 3.2 Sport. During a restoration project it makes life so much easier if your parts are correctly stored in boxes with a list of contents written on the outside, it really helps speed things up during the rebuilding process. It’s also good for your stored spare parts for quick reference, especially when you need something in a hurry.
I’m looking forward to getting stuck into this restoration, I just need to get my current behemoth of a project done.
Why have I got all these boxes? To store the parts in when I strip the cars down in the spring for the restoration of my 3.2 Sport. During a restoration project it makes life so much easier if your parts are correctly stored in boxes with a list of contents written on the outside, it really helps speed things up during the rebuilding process. It’s also good for your stored spare parts for quick reference, especially when you need something in a hurry.
It's a lovely theory.
I had a load of sealed bags labelled for each bit of the old Bonnie I'm rebuilding, I know everything went in them as I stripped it down. Yet I open the still sealed bags & have to order various small bits that have just vanished while stored.
The key thing to do when taking anything apart is put the screw or bolt back in the hole it came from or tape it to the part it fits to. I tend to stay very organised when doing these restorations, it’s why I’m able to do reassembly so quickly. Everything is meticulously labelled and stored in a dedicated steel cabinet or on racking until I need it again.
I also save fittings like screws and bolts for later uses, I actually have one of those large screw organiser cases which is full of small X308 bits like screws, bolts, nuts, switch bulbs, fir tree clips and more. Most of these came from my first two X308s as the first one was written off in an accident and the second succumbed to chronic rust issues, so they were both stripped for parts and the fittings saved. When I take this parts car apart I’ll have even more!
Electric door look worked intermittently. From outside would have to open with key. From inside when acting up couldn’t lift stem and handle does nothing. Had to roll down window and use key. This part had lost it spring.
In today's episode of "just when you think you've fixed nearly everything..."
My XJR has started making a horrible metal whirring noise from the supercharger, not the nose either but the main section. I know I've seen on here before that it'll be the bearings, but I can't recall if it's a simple enough job of swapping them or if it needs special tools & the like. I don't plan to touch it for a month or two when the weather improves, just thinking ahead of what I'd need to do.
In a totally unrelated question... do I remember right the supercharger off a 4.2 bolts straight on & is superior as it's gas flowed a lot better?
Big main bearings are basically not replaceable items. They are placed inside the housing casting. But snout bearings and rear bearings are cheap to buy.
4.2 sc swap needs only intake elbow seal from 4.2 because that is different. This is what I recall of reading.
