Replaced all pads Easy procedure but soft pedal after
Replaced all my brakes a few days ago on a 08 XKR.
Glad I got a cheap caliper compression tool $8 at Orailes, made the job much easier
the rear caliper cylinder can be easily rotated with bi-scripts while using the compression tool, so no special tool is needed as was suggested by some.
Rear have 2x 7mm allen and front have 2x 9mm allen
easy removal and replacement of the pads
After pads installed, did pads burn in procedure as recommended by manufacturer. Now put on 50miles and brake pedal feels a lot softer and brakes dont grip well compared to before replacement.
anyone experience this? are the pads still not quite broken in?
Glad I got a cheap caliper compression tool $8 at Orailes, made the job much easier
the rear caliper cylinder can be easily rotated with bi-scripts while using the compression tool, so no special tool is needed as was suggested by some.
Rear have 2x 7mm allen and front have 2x 9mm allen
easy removal and replacement of the pads
After pads installed, did pads burn in procedure as recommended by manufacturer. Now put on 50miles and brake pedal feels a lot softer and brakes dont grip well compared to before replacement.
anyone experience this? are the pads still not quite broken in?
Do you feel a soft peddle or a softer peddle. Depending on the pad type will determine the peddle feel or grab. I assume you used your old rotors and if so did you scuff them with something like scotch brite pads to get the old brake material off. Also do we assume you didn't open up the bleeder valves during the change and if so did you bleed the system. Spongy peddle is also the result of air in the system. If the brakes worked well before they should work pretty much the same now. What was the break in procedure you used.
I guess its soft braking that im feeling. I put new pads on used rotors , didn't think it was going to be an issue. Did not open or bled the lines at all. Did 4 runs 40-5mph and 4 50-10mph for the break in. So far after few days of driving I do think the braking is improving so hopefully its just the settling of the pads to rotors that was the problem
It is not necessary to open the hydraulic system for the brakes when renewing the pads, unless the fluid is being replaced.
The reason for the 'soft pedal' is the pads not completely conforming to the surface of the brake rotors.
Were the rotor thicknesses checked and run-out measured? As some rotors wear, they develop a slightly concave surface causing the new pads to only touch along the top and bottom edges.
The reason for the 'soft pedal' is the pads not completely conforming to the surface of the brake rotors.
Were the rotor thicknesses checked and run-out measured? As some rotors wear, they develop a slightly concave surface causing the new pads to only touch along the top and bottom edges.
Originally Posted by NBCat
It is not necessary to open the hydraulic system for the brakes when renewing the pads, unless the fluid is being replaced.
The reason for the 'soft pedal' is the pads not completely conforming to the surface of the brake rotors.
Were the rotor thicknesses checked and run-out measured? As some rotors wear, they develop a slightly concave surface causing the new pads to only touch along the top and bottom edges.
The reason for the 'soft pedal' is the pads not completely conforming to the surface of the brake rotors.
Were the rotor thicknesses checked and run-out measured? As some rotors wear, they develop a slightly concave surface causing the new pads to only touch along the top and bottom edges.
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It is not necessary to open the hydraulic system for the brakes when renewing the pads, unless the fluid is being replaced.
The reason for the 'soft pedal' is the pads not completely conforming to the surface of the brake rotors.
Were the rotor thicknesses checked and run-out measured? As some rotors wear, they develop a slightly concave surface causing the new pads to only touch along the top and bottom edges.
The reason for the 'soft pedal' is the pads not completely conforming to the surface of the brake rotors.
Were the rotor thicknesses checked and run-out measured? As some rotors wear, they develop a slightly concave surface causing the new pads to only touch along the top and bottom edges.
I'd check to make sure you don't have a brake fluid leak somewhere near the calipers. If you are leaking fluid on the rotors you will lose a lot of stopping power. And you will have a mushy pedal too.
Govtslug
Govtslug
I had the same experience as you are having on another car. My mechanic said that the pads needed to be bedded in. After a couple of weeks the brake feel came back and it felt good as new. Maybe drive it around for a couple of weeks first and see how it goes before you do anything.
Did you install ceramic pads? If so they do not have the harsh grip like the OEM pads. When you say soft pedal do you mean it keeps going down while pressing the brake at a full stop? Does it remain firm? If it remains firm then that is the way it works.
What you might be experiencing is just the soft initial grip of ceramic pads which takes some getting used to, but once you are the stopping power is not compromised.
What you might be experiencing is just the soft initial grip of ceramic pads which takes some getting used to, but once you are the stopping power is not compromised.
Looks good, Steve.
On the rears, did you just pull the battery and allow the system to reset the handbrake itself, or did you use the SDD/Mongoose tool ?
I can't get Mongoose to work so will likely go the battery/reset route myself
On the rears, did you just pull the battery and allow the system to reset the handbrake itself, or did you use the SDD/Mongoose tool ?
I can't get Mongoose to work so will likely go the battery/reset route myself
No need to pull the battery as the vehicle doesn't automatically engage the electronic handbrake unlike the Citroen I just did recently
Make sure you have a calliper wind back kit handy and after every pad change I apply the brake pedal then move over to the other side
Make sure you have a calliper wind back kit handy and after every pad change I apply the brake pedal then move over to the other side
I somehow missed that you replaced the calipers . That being the case it means you broke open the system and needed to bleed the brakes after reassembly. If you still get a soft peddle I would suggest you may still have air in the system. Do we assume you bled all 4 corners after the replacement.
I somehow missed that you replaced the calipers . That being the case it means you broke open the system and needed to bleed the brakes after reassembly. If you still get a soft peddle I would suggest you may still have air in the system. Do we assume you bled all 4 corners after the replacement.
The OP just replaced the pads and claimed to have a 'spongy pedal' afterwards.
Thank you all for your replies and input.
So after driving for a few hundred miles over the weekend brakes definitely improved, but feel is different I'm assuming to ceramic brakes vs OEM. The brakes feel softer during initial braking but do bite down under harder braking.
Before my weekend trip I went to get wheels rebalance and decided to double check the brakes and rotors and found out that I might of missed that rear rotors have a good size lip and appear pretty thin. I do think now that I should replace the tears. Here is the photos. .
Last edited by AlexJag; May 15, 2016 at 06:24 PM. Reason: pics









I guess fingers crossed that rotors dont get warped and pads confirm
