This is my first Jaguar.





I picked this XJS a little over a month ago, and I have found that I have become obsessed with it.

The only issue it originally had was the check engine light was on. This problem was easily remedied by replacing the coolant temperature sensor as the fault code indicated.

I immediately had the car in for a tranny flush and an oil change and then performed a coolant flush at home. I deleted the cruise control, the smog pump, the air rails, and the AC pump while awaiting the arrival of the plugs and wires and the distributor cap and rotor.

Now as I am cleaning all the gunk and birdseed out of the V and the surrounding vicinity, I decided to clean off the yellow fan - only to find it full of cracks. I pulled the fan off to not only discover that the tensioner was on the brink of self destruction, but also find the clutch is completely fried.

Now I am into the car this deep I might as well replace all the V belts (the three that remain from eliminating the AC and Smog Pump) Figure, might as well inspect that small electric fan. Lo and behold- it barely spins because it is rubbing against its own housing. One can only assume that it is fried or close to it, so now the whole fan housing is pulled out. I ordered a Spal 1463 cfm fan to replace the 11 inch fan- which should be a good improvement.

With all that stuff out of the way, the decision has been made to replace all the coolant hoses. As I await those to show up, I get around to pulling out the dryer and condenser. Now stairing me in the face, is about the only thing remaining, the radiator. This was never the plan, but more-so, the natural progression of things. So now it is out of the car.

Man, am I glad that I chose to do this.







see the cigarette?

The question: On my Cadillacs, there is a mesh that covers the front of the radiator. Now that I am not reinstalling the Aircon components, would it be advisable to fashion something such as that so it could be removed like a dirty filter?

 

Very wise to get stuck in and fix everything. Good for you. Ensure you change all the small hoses to/from the heater and the ones on the crosspipe in front of the engine. new thermostats not a bad idea either. Assuming it is the 1992 car in your signature? I say: forget any filter, airflow is vital and there is enough stuff in front of the water rad as it is. I believe from personal "before and after" experience that the debris is sucked up from below, it does not go through the matrixes. Once I dispensed with the foams round the water radiator the problem was reduced hugely.
There are huge differences of opinion on this latter point, but I followed the advice of the Great XJS Prophet Grant Francis, aka "The Wizard of Oz" who will be along soon, no doubt. Without the foams lots more air enters the engine bay and the low pressure spot between the condenser and the water rad is eliminated. Cooling is improved, not impaired.
Do get the rad checked and pressure tested before you reinstall it though. Spal fan to replace the OEM one a really good mod. The cars are absolutely wonderful when sorted, and they do, as you have found out, get under your skin!
Greg

 

The only problem I could see with removing the foam ( technically they are called seals) around the radiator is then not all the air entering the engine bay is going through the radiator. Air into the engine bay isn't the objective, passing it through the radiator is. Air bypassing the rad can't cool the coolant, so is rather useless.

That being said I have never removed the foam to see the effect, but the logic makes sense since air will always take the path of least resistance.

 

Quite understand your point JB. My guess is that there is such a huge excess of airflow available at speeds above which the fan is superfluous, that the limiting factor on the system is the amount of air that can get through the rad stack. If this is the case, then the air that goes through the max 1 inch max gap at the sides of the rad does not impair the cooling, as there is plenty to go round. But, the excess air does have a very beneficial effect on the under bonnet temps.
Greg

 

That's why there are the rubber flaps on the fan shroud - to allow air to bypass the fan ( but not the rad!) at speed.

Also the reason the engine air intakes are behind the radiator is to consume the air behind the radiator, and that creates a greater pressure differential across the fan and more flow at highway speeds. The engine bay temps stabilize at about 45C at highway cruise, which is decent for power, and around 70C at urban speeds for better economy.

 

Biggest issue with the real engined cars is the air "getting out" of the engine bay.

As Greg has said, most of that crud is "sucked up" by the engine driven fan, and not via the front intake. If it were via the front intakes, the a/c condensor would be clogged, and I have never seen one of them clogged in that way.

The exit air from the engine bay is generally restricted by the thick foam pad that is up on top of the transmission, and originally glued to the tunnel, but that glue has long given up.

I have not had the radiator seals/foam fitted to any of my V12's since about 1994, and the temps are stable in any weather, even our 45+C summers.

AHA. but I run E Fans on them all in lieu of the factory engine driven fan/s.

Also still have the a/con fitted and working.

Those rubber flaps in the factory shroud did do as you described. a very long time ago, but most (and yours may not be obviously) are hard and bent towards the engine and do not close at idle as designed.

I also have "cold air" intakes that collect air from down under the front bumper bar.
Those factory snorkel trumpets are sucking HOT air from the radiator system, and that is OK for economy, but COLD air is OK for power. I wanted the power, and the economy has not suffered at all, 11.2L/100KM generally on interstate runs.

My grille set up, that I made myself.

 

You are right Grant, I did notice that the condenser was not clogged. I was intending on putting the foam seal back in place, but now I am inclined not to.

I have new thermostats (82 degree), and I am taking the radiator in to have it professionally sorted. The inside of the radiator seems pretty clean. Hopefully, a good flushing is all it will require.

In the future, I see switching over to two electric fans, but right now I don't want to be in over my head while all this other sorting is going on.

I like the look of swapping out the modern lenses for the classic style headlight setup. Doing that swap would allow me to replace one of the lamps with an intake on each side. If only the paint was bad, then I would spring to have the hood louvered.

 

I am liking these vents. These seem to fit the style of the car well.

 

Free gift for you: this is your xjs bible: Kirby Palm's Jaguar XJ-S Help Book

 

welcome to jaguar ownership I also Have a 1992 and did my radiator also....
yours look more clogged than mine was...

 

Thanks. I guess that means I win!

 

Just be careful as not all electric fans are equal. The PO of my car took out the belt driven fan and put in electric. Cooling was marginal when it was warmer than 25C outside, and I certainly wouldn't want the AC on or to be stuck in traffic. I pulled the electric out, put in the OEM setup and now the temp gauge is rock solid, never moves part thermostat temp. I am not seeing the heat that Grant sees in Australia, but it my climate the OEM system works great.

 

I like those vents also. I would buy a set but I just found a guy that will punch louvers for $2 each inc layout. I think he charges to little but won't tell so until after I pay him. Lol

 

Wow.

Quite jealous.

 

I took the radiator into the shop and when the guy visually inspected it, he was pretty sure a recore was in order. After testing it over the weekend he has confirmed that a recore is the way to go. I am just glad that I found a local fellow to do this, and one with 30 years of experience who take his work seriously. It is a bummer that he has to wait for parts to be shipped to him so he can do the job.

 

Yeah, a recore is the better way, for you and the shop. Boiling or rodding out of an old core can open a ton of leaks. You are unhappy, he is unhappy. But, there are cores and there are cores. make sure you get a good one.


I like the PCM controlled Efans on my "lump". Although the clime around here is usually mild, it can get hot. We are seeing 90 F's this week. We will probably see 100 F for a days or so later. The LT1 likes
about 200 F as a running number. When in motion, the fans are quiet. Only when in traffic or idling for a spell do they kick in.


Oh, because of a mishap, my lump got an electric water pump. It runs whenever the engine runs. No sophisticated control. So far, great...


Carl

 

One of the benefits of a front hinged hood/bonnet is that it can be
partly opened in extra hot days or even as a standard practice after a drive to allow engine bay heat an easy way out.


Yeah, when my car was was "luimped" the transmission "blanket" was omitted. No ill effects as far as I know?


Carl
or

 

yeah, I thought is was cool to remove the safety latch on the bonnet to be able to just nudge it open. It will probably be reattached because gaping it open is a simple and available aid in releasing the trapped heat.

 

That is a great color and the vents look excellent. If I had a 12, I would do this, both paint and vents.

 

I have done a little looking, but have not been able to locate those specific vents. If I were painting my car, gold would be my color of choice.