XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Swap out Spark Plugs on HE

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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 01:59 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by paulyling
Quick question: Setting the spark gap....is there any particular technique or tool to bend the electrode down? I just bought the feeler gauge and figured I could just bend it carefully with a screw driver or something.

I use the handle of a screw diver and tap the electrode gently with the feeler gauge in there.

Good to know about the Magnecore, I'll need new leads for the 6.7L as I have coil packs.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 03:25 AM
  #22  
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As Warren said, and Paul, just TAP that electrode mate, NO FBH here.

Hit it too hard and you WILL damage the centre electrode up inside where you cannot see it.

I strongy suggest PRACTICE on an old plug, then if you make a mess of it, no $$ wasted. Dont be afraid, it is a simple procedure.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 03:56 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
As Warren said, and Paul, just TAP that electrode mate, NO FBH here.

Hit it too hard and you WILL damage the centre electrode up inside where you cannot see it.

I strongy suggest PRACTICE on an old plug, then if you make a mess of it, no $$ wasted. Dont be afraid, it is a simple procedure.
Cheers Grant. And 8mm blue leads are ok as opposed to Red 8.5mm? (I did order the 8mm so hope it is ok)
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 04:06 AM
  #24  
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Good as Gold.

Colour is selective, and I like BLACK, but then as I said yesteray, I am an odd one.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 03:40 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by paulyling


What's this?!?!

What is going on with that new TPS?

Is it really just mounted on the bottom of the old TPS? Can you do this and not have to purchase all those adapters and shafts etc they sell for the new TPS to be used in place of the old style ones?!

Paulyling, was this something you did yourself? If so can you describe how the two shafts are tied together?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 04:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JigJag
What's this?!?!

What is going on with that new TPS?

Is it really just mounted on the bottom of the old TPS? Can you do this and not have to purchase all those adapters and shafts etc they sell for the new TPS to be used in place of the old style ones?!

Paulyling, was this something you did yourself? If so can you describe how the two shafts are tied together?
Heh JigJag....I'm not sure bud as I haven't messed with the TPS on my ole girl yet. I thought the Pot was all one unit, with the red one being the "newer" style, but apart from that I haven't had a need to mess with it as it seems to have worked fine ever since I've bought it.

Grant would most likely be able to give you the answer you need. Here is a close up pick for clarity:

 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 06:26 PM
  #27  
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That's definately a new TPS mounted right underneath the original Bourne TPS. I'l be interested to hear how they are connected if you decide to look to see.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 06:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Remove the distributor cap, the socket extension will be HARD up against it for 3A and 3B, and the cap will crack, and you will be sad.
Grant when you say remove the cap do you meant quite literally the blue cap or the whole mechanism itself? (as pic below)

(Sorry for the silly questions! )

 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Also, while the dizzy cap is off, a drop of fully synthetic on the dizzy spindle and make sure it rotates 15 degrees or so and snaps back on its spring. Also, test the vac capsule holds vac and moves the dizzy innards. All part of the regular plug change routine.
Greg

Greg the dizzy snaps back no problems. Not sure if I would say it moves 15 degrees though, is that still ok? (see pics).

I have some general purpose oil, doesn't say if it is synthetic or not though. Think it would be ok?




 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:15 PM
  #30  
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Guys, the more I look at Paul Lings pictures... the more I think I need to remove my fuel rail, and clean the V and replace all fuel lines.. I'm guessing all fuel lines are 'original'..As well as the plugs.- and possibly leads. (not original).





Thoughts.. Grant..Paul ?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:39 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by PaulRoper
Guys, the more I look at Paul Lings pictures... the more I think I need to remove my fuel rail, and clean the V and replace all fuel lines.. I'm guessing all fuel lines are 'original'..As well as the plugs.- and possibly leads. (not original).





Thoughts.. Grant..Paul ?
Just be aware before you start "just a cleanup in the V" that it will not end there. All kinds of tentacles will reach out from a seemingly simple straightforward job and occupy you for some time.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:57 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by paulyling
Grant when you say remove the cap do you meant quite literally the blue cap or the whole mechanism itself? (as pic below)

(Sorry for the silly questions! )

Just the Blue plastic cap is all you need to remove.

I would NOT use that oil, I would see if James, or someone, has a Synthetic you could get a few drops from. The Mineral based will turn "gooey" with the heat, and cause issues.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 09:14 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by paulyling
Heh JigJag....I'm not sure bud as I haven't messed with the TPS on my ole girl yet. I thought the Pot was all one unit, with the red one being the "newer" style, but apart from that I haven't had a need to mess with it as it seems to have worked fine ever since I've bought it.

Grant would most likely be able to give you the answer you need. Here is a close up pick for clarity:

NAH.

You will need some serious Aussie in ya blood to think as far outside the square as I did on that one, about 10 years ago.

XJ40 TPS, simple. Ironically the same as the "update" for the V12.

Fitting (adaptor to some) Kits, not available at the time, and $360, HAHAHAHA.

Simply gutted the Bourns, used the casing as a mount medium, made up a metal "tube" to adapt to the spindle "D" of the capstan, and flattened the other end to drive the "tang" of the new TPS.

The "new" TPS is spring loaded to idle, soooooooooo, all that lag is GONE, it comes back to idle all by itself, amazing, as apposed to the Bourns, that needs to be "dragged" back to idle.

Wiring is simple enough, and it works a treat.

I did mine differently about 4 years before that.

Here ya go.

Throttle Position Sensor Replacement.doc

Enjoy
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 09:15 PM
  #34  
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Well....end of the first day and six plugs out and six new ones in....setting the gap wasn't too hard however the electrodes are kinda at an angle so you have to slide the feeler gauge in there the same way to set it right. I tapped with a screw driver butt but also used my thumb and forefinger with a large flat blade screw driver and bent mine as well.

The first 6 plugs weren't too bad to get out at all and thank God the previous mechanic used Never Seize. I think he knew what he was doing lol

Thanks also to Greg in France's advice I cleaned out each plug bore just before I removed it as i had also types of gooey things and grit in there.

I also found it helpful to tick off the plugs I did on my workshop manual to remember where I was at after each one.

Looking at the old plugs in my workshop manual chart they look closest to "Carbon Fouling" however the picture doesn't really do it justice. I had suspected I was running rich as I am in the process of trying to troubleshoot another issue which lead me to the plugs (see here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eriods-168508/)











To be continued tomorrow...
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 11:40 PM
  #35  
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Got another sneaky 4 more done...just have to do 1A and 1B on Friday (out tomorrow). That means loosening that Big Ole Chunky A/C Compressor.

My bloody Bunnings Special Air Compressor died too so now I can't blow out the plug bores, so now picking any gunk out with tweezers....

To be continued....


p.s. Grant do you reckon a few drops of Synthetic 10W40 oil for the engine would suffice for the dizzy?
 

Last edited by paulyling; Oct 11, 2016 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 01:41 AM
  #36  
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Hi Bro

You're making me feel a lot better! as there was me thinking that I held the Record for taking 2 days to change all the Spark Plugs.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 02:12 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by paulyling
p.s. Grant do you reckon a few drops of Synthetic 10W40 oil for the engine would suffice for the dizzy?
Paul,
Congrats on progress so far. That plug looks absolutely normal to me, certainly not looking over-rich.
The 10w-40 synthetic will be perfect. Glad the dizzy is snapping back Ok.
Greg
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 02:48 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Paul,
Congrats on progress so far. That plug looks absolutely normal to me, certainly not looking over-rich.
The 10w-40 synthetic will be perfect. Glad the dizzy is snapping back Ok.
Greg
Cheers guys.

Heh Greg not exactly sure where best to lubricate as there isn't really much access to anything without further dismantling the dizzy. Do I just try and get a bit of oil down the shaft below the green triangular arm?

 

Last edited by paulyling; Oct 12, 2016 at 02:50 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 02:49 AM
  #39  
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Hi Bro

If your Compressor is broken, then suck all the Crud out with a nozzle on a Vacuum Cleaner.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 03:40 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by paulyling
Cheers guys.

Heh Greg not exactly sure where best to lubricate as there isn't really much access to anything without further dismantling the dizzy. Do I just try and get a bit of oil down the shaft below the green triangular arm?

Paul
Carefully rock off the rotor arm (place a hand at each end and rock it up and down to loosen it, do NOT just pull it upwards). This reveals the shaft. Put some into the indentation in the top, and allow a little drops to roll down the outside of the shaft. Replace the arm and turn it against the spring and allow it to flick back a few times. Even though free, you can often actually feel it loosen up a bit more when you do this.
Cheers and good luck
Greg
 
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