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What kind of compound did you try, how did you prep for it, and how did you apply it?
I only used a small bit of polishing compound in a small portion of the trim to see if I'd get immediate results. I didn't see anything, so I didn't bother going further.
First off, you're sure the rocker panel has not been repainted? Did you get any white paint transfer onto the polishing pad you were using? If you didn't get any white paint residue, then it would be safe to say it has a clear coat.
I would imagine the approach you used was not aggressive enough to take the yellowing out, but it is good you began with that, as the number one rule to paint correction is to start with the least aggressive method you think will correct the problem, as to not overdo it and destroy the clear coat. Polishing by hand is not only tedious, it can be extremely difficult and sometimes impossible to take out paint imperfections. I used to do it by hand, but have converted to machine polishing as it does a far superior job in less time.
If it is bad enough, you will probably need to wet sand the panel. What I would do is first, thoroughly wash and clay bar the panel. Then, depending on how bad it is (which from what you stated, is probably bad enough), take a more aggressive compound such as Meguiars M105 with a medium to coarse pad, and machine polish the area. If you're not too familiar with them, I'd start with a random orbital buffer (Porter Cable 7424's are pretty popular for this). Do not try a rotary buffer first thing, as you can burn through the paint pretty easy. After the appropriate number of passes on it, assess to see whether it needs more. If it does, you can either make another number of passes on it with more compound, or even drop back to wetsanding. After you have compounded it, then machine polish with your product of choice, and then seal it. If the area is prone to yellowing (which it looks like it is), either up your number of waxes per year for the area, or use a more durable, synthetic based sealant.
If you don't have a machine polisher, you can try the steps above by hand, but with how hard clearcoats are nowadays, it is extremely difficult to get it corrected.
You can check out autogeek or autopia forums online, they are a wealth of information for paint correction.
First off, you're sure the rocker panel has not been repainted? Did you get any white paint transfer onto the polishing pad you were using? If you didn't get any white paint residue, then it would be safe to say it has a clear coat.
I would imagine the approach you used was not aggressive enough to take the yellowing out, but it is good you began with that, as the number one rule to paint correction is to start with the least aggressive method you think will correct the problem, as to not overdo it and destroy the clear coat. Polishing by hand is not only tedious, it can be extremely difficult and sometimes impossible to take out paint imperfections. I used to do it by hand, but have converted to machine polishing as it does a far superior job in less time.
If it is bad enough, you will probably need to wet sand the panel. What I would do is first, thoroughly wash and clay bar the panel. Then, depending on how bad it is (which from what you stated, is probably bad enough), take a more aggressive compound such as Meguiars M105 with a medium to coarse pad, and machine polish the area. If you're not too familiar with them, I'd start with a random orbital buffer (Porter Cable 7424's are pretty popular for this). Do not try a rotary buffer first thing, as you can burn through the paint pretty easy. After the appropriate number of passes on it, assess to see whether it needs more. If it does, you can either make another number of passes on it with more compound, or even drop back to wetsanding. After you have compounded it, then machine polish with your product of choice, and then seal it. If the area is prone to yellowing (which it looks like it is), either up your number of waxes per year for the area, or use a more durable, synthetic based sealant.
If you don't have a machine polisher, you can try the steps above by hand, but with how hard clearcoats are nowadays, it is extremely difficult to get it corrected.
You can check out autogeek or autopia forums online, they are a wealth of information for paint correction.
HTH
Wow, the members on this forum continue to impress. All such wonderful people indeed.
I'll play with it and see if i get any results. I have the Porter Cable. I'll pick up the Meguires M105 and some sanding sheets.
If I'm not happy with the results (if any), I'll see how much a local body shop would change me.
First off, you're sure the rocker panel has not been repainted? Did you get any white paint transfer onto the polishing pad you were using? If you didn't get any white paint residue, then it would be safe to say it has a clear coat.
I would imagine the approach you used was not aggressive enough to take the yellowing out, but it is good you began with that, as the number one rule to paint correction is to start with the least aggressive method you think will correct the problem, as to not overdo it and destroy the clear coat. Polishing by hand is not only tedious, it can be extremely difficult and sometimes impossible to take out paint imperfections. I used to do it by hand, but have converted to machine polishing as it does a far superior job in less time.
If it is bad enough, you will probably need to wet sand the panel. What I would do is first, thoroughly wash and clay bar the panel. Then, depending on how bad it is (which from what you stated, is probably bad enough), take a more aggressive compound such as Meguiars M105 with a medium to coarse pad, and machine polish the area. If you're not too familiar with them, I'd start with a random orbital buffer (Porter Cable 7424's are pretty popular for this). Do not try a rotary buffer first thing, as you can burn through the paint pretty easy. After the appropriate number of passes on it, assess to see whether it needs more. If it does, you can either make another number of passes on it with more compound, or even drop back to wetsanding. After you have compounded it, then machine polish with your product of choice, and then seal it. If the area is prone to yellowing (which it looks like it is), either up your number of waxes per year for the area, or use a more durable, synthetic based sealant.
If you don't have a machine polisher, you can try the steps above by hand, but with how hard clearcoats are nowadays, it is extremely difficult to get it corrected.
You can check out autogeek or autopia forums online, they are a wealth of information for paint correction.
HTH
The above advice is not necessarily good for the area of concern, as the sill is painted with a textured finish then polishing/wet sanding will result in a spotty finish as you take of the tops of the bumps.
I would guess that a previous owner had this area resprayed and a poor quality clear coat was used.
I would go a to a paint shop and ask their advice.
Good suggestion to watch out for, RaceDiagnostics. Textured panels are not neccessarily good candidates for wetsanding, depending on the texture and how much clear coat you are playing with. Obviously be aware of your surroundings and what is going on with the paint.
Though I will note, on my XK the rocker panels are not textured. Perhaps the earlier models were..?
On second thought, I just checked my panels. It appears I may have an extra guard on mine, which overlays the rocker panel and is painted smooth. I cannot fully tell in the OP's picture, but it may be that the extra piece is not affixed.
Last edited by chillyphilly; Feb 13, 2017 at 08:52 AM.
Ironically, I checked the service records and the passenger side rocker was changed about 7 years ago after the PO ran over a piece of metal and chipped. He adored this car and had the rocker panel changed and properly painted.
It's the factory one that faded.. Go figure .
I have a similar issue on my white XKR. I think it may have something to do with the chemical composition of stonechip finish under the paint and is most noticable on the white cars. I have not attempted any correction to date.
Also, on past cars I have noticed that paint on plastic/composite surfaces like molded bumpers end up looking a bit different than on metal surfaces, especially as it ages.
I have a similar issue on my white XKR. I think it may have something to do with the chemical composition of stonechip finish under the paint and is most noticable on the white cars.
Anthony, that's where I was heading but my question wasn't well posed.
"Yellowed" body trim.. need suggestions
