i have a set of chrome oem wheels on my 99 XK8 and two of them lose air constantly from around rim. Valve stems are o.k.. . 2 Questions. 1. Any suggestions on remedy. and 2. What year/model Jag wheels are interchangeable?
I am sure there have been other posts but I have not found them. Thanks

 

I had a set of chromed wheels before, and I did some reading. Apparently, in the great eventually, all chrome wheels start leaking air. The chrome separates from the rim where it meets the tire. From that point forward, all fixes are temporary in nature. You can use soapy water and look for bubbles to confirm. Normally, tire shops would be able to do some fixes that can last a while. Maybe calling a wheel repair shop might give you better suggestions. I got the impression that there comes a point where a set of chromed wheels is just done. The chrome separates at the bead, the finish peels off or pits, and they cannot be repaired (barring an expensive full refinishing, and shipping to CA). I ended up selling my set before it got to that point.

For fitment, all Jaguar X100 (XK8/XKR 1997 to 2006) wheels work on an XK8, unless you have fitted the big Brembo XKR brakes. There is a wide range. They are very well cataloged in lots of places, not necessarily expensive if you stay with 18", but availability is spotty at best. I gather they are typically sourced from junk yards and refinished. I have found the "hollander" number to be good for searches. Another option is to take your time and wait for something on the classifieds on this forum. There is always someone wanting to trade up, and a set of basic wheels can turn up.

Outside of that, I am not aware of any other Jaguar wheels that are an exact fit, but there are other options depending on budget and willingness to put in some effort.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

The simple solution is to have the tyres fitted with tubes. I used to work for Michelin and as a staff perk we were allowed a new set of car tyres every 2 years, which were fitted on site, If you had alloys they were always fitted with tubes as standard.

 

I have a Subaru that used to have constantly leaking tyres from where they meet the rim. I just endured it until I changed tyre brands (for no reason other than price and what was available) and the leaking stopped. There was nothing fundamentally different, but I guess the new ones just suited the rim better.

 

clean the bead areas well and apply silicone to beads and reseat tire to rim. that is the easiest fix and what I do to mine that do that on my 95 VDP with the same wheels you have.

 

Many tire shops have a black 'goopy' liquid they use for 'bead-sealer'. I remember that the old Dayton Wire wheels used silicone sealant in the center spoke area.
Brutal's idea is a quick/cheap fix if you break the tire down and slather it on.

bob

 

Thanks to all for your input. I am going to take what I think is the path of least resistance and cost. Have tire removed, clean rim and have tube installed. Not a daily driver so it may take a little while but I will report back on the results.

 

Bead sealer is a way better option than tubes. Tubes in a tubeless tire can heat it up (from the friction) and weaken the tire from the inside.


I'd be really surprised if a tire shop would do this on a speed rated tire. A national chain likely won't do to liability concerns.

 

I'm pretty sure Michelin know what they doing in fitting a tube in a tubeless tire!

 

Michelin might, but Walmart, NTB, Sam's Club, Costco, Discount Tire, Firestone tire centers, Sears, etc. will likely tell you "to go someplace else" if you ask for tubes to be installed in a speed rated tire.
If we had a Michelin store, he would sell you a no air tire, not a tube. Things are probably different in places without lawyers.


I brought tires I purchased from Tire Rack online to my local NTB, and even though NTB is a Tire Rack certified installer, they wouldn't install them, because they only install Tire Rack tires shipped directly to them, so they can ensure they weren't "damaged in shipment". - Like somehow the UPS driver is going to damage them worse than me autocrossing them.

 

i think you have answered your own question there, go to a proper tyre shop if you want expert advice. Anyone who says a tubeless tyre cant be fitted with a tube is an idiot and doesn't know what they are talking about. I've scanned the net and there are loads so called expert tyre websites and they are talking compete bull. If you want the definitive answer look on the manufacturers sites. They will say its not required generally (we know that anyway) and there are some drawbacks but its useful in some circumstances to fit them. Thats from the Avon site, other manufacturers will say the same. Go to sites like piston heads and the idiots there will tell you its illegal, you will fail your MOT, blah, blah, utter garbage. the main drawback is a drop of one letter in the speed rating. Well to be honest if you are pushing your car that much you need to have you licence taken away, for the safety of all of us. Another is a reduction in ride quality as it stiffens the side walls, but is that an acceptable issue compared to having to put air in you tyres every couple of days, its certainly safer. Its your choice, I've given you away out that is legal, safe and fairly cheap.

 

I can testify to the bead sealer working, and it will be a cheaper fix than tubes. I went to tire shop and had them pull the tire off a wheel that was leaking when I bought the car, I suspected corrosion after testing with soapy water and had bubbles in several places. Once off I used a battery operated drill with a abrasive brush, and some sand paper to get it as smooth as possible along the inside edge. The tire guy put a nice coat of bead sealer and then popped the tire back on. That was about a year ago, and I haven't had a leak since.