So the right tie rod end link bent slightly due to a pot hole and I have been needing to replace the bushings and ball joints.
Couple options out there.
Power flex sells polyurethane replacements which I'm considering. But the ride may be a little more stiff.
Jaguar XK - XKR - X150 (2006+) Performance Suspension Bushings
and used factory replacement ball joints.

The other option is replacement with OEM spec replacements such as this.
UPPER + LOWER CONTROL ARMS BALL JOINTS TOE LINK JAGUAR XK XKR SUSPENSION KIT 22

Such as the kit above on eBay.

Anyone run into such a decision or replace with polyurethanes?

Thanks

 

Browse thru this thread, may help. Maybe AJ will chime in too...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-173715/page2/

 

I've read a few threads from those who've replaced OEM with Poly and all say pretty much the same thing. Tighter ride but much harsher (or firmer) and considerably louder.

Read the same on the MB forums as well. No personal experience with poly bushes.

 

Thanks guys. Very helpful. I too feel stock bushings are the way to go. I don't drive it much but the fear of a loud ride in such a nice car brings back memories of driving an unreliable mustang/drag car back and forth to school.

I think I'll swap the front out and do the rear when I drop it for the differential swap. Seems that it will be much easier to swap bushings when the rear end is out of the car.

 

The ride with the Poly bushings is not really noticeably more harsh, but the noise is very very noticeable. The squeaks and groans are unsettling until you get used to them (or turn the radio up), and the hitting expansion joints sounds like popping a balloon.

To me the decision came down to mileage. If you don't think you are going to put enough miles to justify more replacements again soon, then stock is the way to go. But I put about 20K a year on my car (lots of interstate drives back home), so I didn't want to be doing this again in 2 years. It was worth the noise to me.

 

Unfortunately it is not just mileage but time as well. I drive less than 2K miles per year and ready for my third set of suspension links due to all of the rubber rotting. I wish we could source an all rubber bushing (non-greased filled) like what Porsche uses. My Porsche friends have no issues with their suspension all rubber bushings.

 

I'm with everyone else. Drive a car with poly bushes on the road for a week ...
Is it just me or does anyone else find the pricing of the suspension kit on ebay obnoxious. Why not just replace the bushings and the matching arms??
Incidentally, I don't see sway bar bushings in that picture.
Cheers.

 

Have used poly bushings on another car with good quiet results. I did add grease fittings, first a metal grease nipple on the outside of the bushing housing; and the 1-2 drilled holes through the poly bushing itself so as to allow grease to flow between metal and poly. Once I greased it never had to do it again in 40K miles.

 

I would not fit Deutsche Parts period

 

I'm torn between what to do. I may consider pressing out old ball-joints and bushings and installing new. Considering doing the Poly bushings 80a durometer and tap arms for added grease fitting. (Which would probably be a better ride than the existing shot bushings)
I just need to locate good quality ball joints. I think I saw a post somewhere with the factory Bushing/Ball joint part numbers were specified. Hopefully they are not too much of a headache to press out.

 

You can buy the bushings from Lemforder ( ZF ) - not sure about the ball joints though

 

Fricke, try this Canadian supplier? Granted this link is for an XJ ball joint. I was actually on there looking at Tranny Pan/filter kit and came across these.
Decent prices too when you consider the exchange rate! ( take 25% off the CAD price) URO seem good quality.. just put new Upper C/A's in from them.
Good luck.. Geo G


https://www.autopartsway.ca/partdeta...ion-ball-joint

 

 

Thanks guys.
Has anyone had luck with locating good quality ball joints for the upper front arms?

I've decided to do the polybushings up front, and add in grease fittings on the factory arms.
As an engineer I'm wary of the materials used by some of the after market arms. I simply can't justify the cost of a factory arm.
Thus finding a happy medium and keep the factory arm in place gives me comfort.

 

Front upper Ball Joints aren't sold separately. You need to buy the whole control arm.

 

They are only like $150 from Rock Auto.

 

Thanks guys. That's what I'm noticing. I was just skeptical of other manufacturers. Not too familiar with some of them.