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Come on Steve, where exactly (and I do not mean where did you lie down)?
Bought a trolley jack.
Jacked the car up.
Crawled under the car and had a lie down.
Released the trolley jack.
May as well, it's frigging killing me anyway!
Further to the question, back end of left side passenger floorpan, behind the seat.
There is a tube that runs through to take the hand brake cable from the lever through the rear bulkhead; depending on market one side or the other should be plugged.
Mine wasn't so over the years the rear wheel had been throwing water through the tube and the rot set in to such an extent that the jacking point got pushed up in to the floor.
But, on a brighter side, I was so pissed off that I did some trawling through the t'interweb, looking for something to cheer me up and came across these little beauties.
Unluckily I was literally walking out the door to go away for the weekend when postie turned up so didn't get to see them until this afternoon.
They are rarer than hen's teeth found in rocking horse poop and I was pant-wettingly excited to see them and (for a change!) I wasn't disappointed.
One of them came in a sealed Jaguar bag wrapped in original Jaguar brown paper; I'll be listing that separately later.
Behold and marvel at my (quite expensive) luck:
Classic rust spot there, and just as likely to have rotted inside to the out. If you feel keen enough, remove the rear seat and you should find a hole in the outer lower corner of the vertical seat panel (the one just behind your shins if you were sitting in the back seat). Some cars have a rubbishy seat belt slider rod in this position. Anyway, get some AquaSteel and using a garden sprayer spray it in the cavity through this hole each side. Wait a day and do the same with an aerosol of wax (Bilt Hamber's Dynax S-50 seems to be the best I have found).
Just in case you get bored with driving it, something else to do.
LOVE the new badges, I am a sucker for that too!
amazingly easy with amazing results... a pleasure job... pure engine tuning stuff - FINALLY...
removed, cleaned throttle bodies AND reset all linkage,,, installed new throttle bushings. they were just FLOATING before - no throttle bushings or even pieces to speak of in there. For now, the plastic ones that I intend to replace with brass - or something. Potentiometer set at .33-.34
she runs completely differently now. idles perfect,,, quiet,,, with jus the slightest hesitation - like when stopped at a light and then hitting the gas to go. the the throttle rotor is moving before the linkage and flaps are. I think I may start a thread asking for help to solve that. any suggestions?
ANY SOURCES ON THROTTLE RETURN SPRINGS - cant find any anywhere!?
Hey Greg... This is what I got,,, broken heart-ed, again. Yesterday, after digging and digging, I found the spring at Terry's. It was odd and I hope I ordered the right thing. In the image it is clear that number 8 is the spring... Then, in the itemization, there are two(2) number "8's"... I was - broken heart-ed - clicking on the first "8" and to find discontinued. Then, clicked on the second and BAM! I ordered four(4)... I really really hope I have receive the right thing. If not, I'm tempted to go to some hardware stores and matching it up...
HELLO SomeDay. I am terrible! One is, I have so much to do on this machine, and so so little time - working FT and until recently a FT student - that I have been HORRIBLE about offering back to the forum and sharing my stuff. Honestly, I feel guilty about it in a way. I take take take and I don't like that I'm not offering anything. Another part O that, os that in many ways these jobs are my first rodeo.... I am focused on the job and getting it right I kinda don't have the mental energy to be doing the documenting.. What i might do is go and add it to the the one with "alternative fuel lines" thread. Or, start a new one... I need to get better at documenting... Yours is a good question. Let me get to it. Honestly, it was a pretty straight forward thing. And, KIRBY PALM and older threads,,,, guided me. It's worth the hours. Basically, just undo everything, and do it all over as guided by the Kirby and the teachers here. It works
Last edited by JayJagJay; Jun 7, 2018 at 09:49 AM.
Got ya! I ordered four(4) because they were so hard to find,,, I almost ordered ten(10). At Terry's they were like $4 bucks each,,, I think. I understand I'll only need two(2)... I went to take the four(4) and did order.
They called me today to tell me that they DON'T have them, they have been DC'd, and they sent me a refund. Unless I can find a source, I think I will just have to go to the HW store and try to match something up... Length and Resistance. Don't want to but what option do I have. Thankfully, I still have the old
Unless I'm missing something - a link to a supplier that HAS the part available didn't show up in your comment... Could be a forum/server malfunction
I looked at the link you DID provide,,, and it says "part no longer available" or something like that. And,,, it looks like it lists/suggests or describes two(2) on each side in the link,,, while the pic ya'd sent in thread shows one(1)....
What gives,,, lol???
Maaaan, I so so appreciate YOU...
Last edited by JayJagJay; Jun 8, 2018 at 07:06 AM.
Rear Diff/Cage renewal complete with KYB shocks, uprated cage mounts, heavyduty poly bushings and new brakes plus a ghetto auxillary fan toggle because my thermal switch is dysfunctional.
Will mount switch in behind ignition on a blank dash faceplate out of the way when I have time. For now this should help with my gridlock overheat issue.
