Um, before you try scratching that itch, have you verified the actual fuel pressure using a mechanical gauge? I'd certainly want to make sure that is good before worrying about individual injectors.

 

If you want i have the 5000 page + shop manual on cd i can send you...it is very thorough...just pm me with your address...it is genuine jaguar...

 

- I have not verified the fuel pressure, which is a great idea. We will be doing that, and a compression test before any major work gets started. Thanks for the advice.

- I would love the CD manual! I will PM you ASAP. Thanks!

The weather warmed up some today so I got under the hood and started looking at it. Also got to reading posts that discuss pretty much everything around the fuel rail. I can see the fuel rail and the injectors, living snugly under the intercoolers (IC). So it seems the ICs need to come off. Based on what I can find, it looks like removing the IC means also removing the supercharger (SC) to get to some of the hex screws. I base this notion on threads like this: jaghelp.com: 2006 S-type supercharger removal which includes a picture of the engine with the S.C. removed. Thus exposing the otherwise blocked view of what appears to be two hex screws on the central part of the IC.



Pic of SC removed in referenced post. Suspect hex bolts circled in yellow.


So while I PM about getting the thorough repair manual, the question is:
I do need to remove the SC to remove the IC, correct?

I have a good friend/excellent mechanic who I am looking to task this job to, based on the other things that should be done while we are in there. Great guy, the “referred by a mutual friend” type of awesome mechanic. So I feel fortunate. But even he isn’t the most familiar with Jags, so I seriously appreciate the advice you all give!

 

 

Hold on!

Why are you talking about such major work? So far you seem to have had ordinary faults which don't appear to need it.

BTW make sure you have the better OBD tool and that you know which cylinder is which as it changed - yours is the ISO kind.

 

Thanks, but there's no need to state that I was right. That's just a given.

All seriousness aside, before digging too deep, have you run the engine after replacing the battery? Perhaps those codes were all caused by low battery voltage, and not necessarily caused by other actual faults. Just a thought...

 

 

 

What codes have you now got?

What are the fuel trims?

What makes you think you've not put a bad new part in?

Why make that assumption about cyl 1?

 

 

You'll have to forgive me. I've lost track of exactly what has and has not been accomplished so far, and in what order. Specifically, did you have a new AND fully charged battery installed when all this trouble was going on?

Ordinarily swapping injectors would be a reasonable next step, but I had no idea access was so poor due to the supercharger. On most cars, it's pretty simple to get to those little buggers. My apologies, I didn't mean for you to have to field strip the poor engine almost down to the bare block. If it's easier to get to the spark plugs, a compression test may have been a better option for the moment, but I guess it's now a moot point.

 

So that leaves:
1. swapped the wrong coil due to not realising where cyl 2 is
2. bad new coil
3. one of the other known causes listed by Jaguar such as wiring or spark plug

An injector fault is on the list but I'd go for the easier ones first.

 

I just wanted to update all who had stuck through this lengthy thread and update you all.
Im sure you have been losing sleep lol
Anyway,
I parked the car for the winter. And now that it is warmer I got her in to see my mechanic. Turns out she was burning through coils. He said, “When you have a high performance machine like this, you don’t put mid level coils in it. I have heard of Cars like yours burning through coils, so spend the money and get top end stuff. In normal cars, these coils would have been fine.” He installed top end coils and the problem is resolved. Didn’t cost me anywhere close to what I was thinking either.
Very glad to report no need for SC removal and fuel injector replacement.
Thank you to all of you who have advice and tried problem solving here in the forum.
You are all very appreciated!

 

Well you need to have the correct coil installed but no there is no such thing as a top end coil.
You can put in MSD or ACCEL coils but just plain stock ones are fine.

Glad you got it fixed! Good Job!
Coils are a wear item and with the age of the car it's not unusual to need them replaced.
Hopefully all 8 were changed?

To answer you other question up thread. What you circled are the knock sensors and they have 1 hex bolt holding them down.
.
.
.

 

Thanks for the update!

What brand coils fixed the problem?

Earlier in this thread, you had mentioned installing Spectra Premium coils, from Rock Auto. I like Rock Auto, especially for research, as they typically list multiple brands for any application. Even better, they often break it down into Economy, Standard, and Premium categories, priced accordingly. I just noticed Spectra pulled a sneaky trick, calling their coils "Spectra Premium" but Rock Auto put them in the economy category. I guess "Premium" meant different things in this case. I suspect Spectra sold you some Chinese coils with a fancy label on the box.

That's why I'm curious what brand your mechanic installed. I'm not sure how many gradients of quality actually exist. In my overrated opinion, I thought it was just cheap Chinese junk or OEM quality such as Denso, NGK, Motorcraft, etc. The Chinese junk is often no-name, but it gets confusing when some economy aftermarket brands put their name on the box.

 

Yes, all eight were replaced. With the cheaper ones in place I would have been super nervous and awaiting another misfire lol

I will confirm the brand installed when I talk with my mechanic, and advise 😎

 

Replaced all eight with NGK Coils