Look here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e2/#post185626 it might shed some light. post #37

 

I added a summary about the Alignment Specs given by Brutal. I did this because several times I've looked up the specs and I've found so many threads with different, varied, or hard to follow information. But I'm sure I got it broke down into simple terms the lay man can tell a tech to get Brutal's specs. Please correct me if I miss interpreted some bits of info.

 

The window fob trick works on my 2000 Lincoln LS. My dealer doesn't think it can be programmed to roll them up though. This "vent" function is on mustangs also.

 

My Mechanic also thought it couldn't be done. plugged in the scanner cable and fired up the software. There it was, large as life, Global Closing" clicked on enable, Save and it worked a treat

 

Thanks a bunch for all the info in this thread! Lots of cool little things to try.

 

Global opening/closing works, too, if you hold down the central locking button on the console...sitting at work w/the windows/sunroof opened and held the lock button and immediately blurted, "This is so effin' cool, I love this car!"

Thank you all for every tip on here!

 

Nice addition jlamboy!

List updated.

 

Was this at the dealer where the mechanic fired up the software?

 

Fantastic thread... Thank you all so much!

 

hi,
your tips and tricks about S-type model are so nice and very useful for every one if they follow .These tips are very important for me.Thanks for shearing the tips ,hints and tricks.

--------------------------------------------------------
2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS

 

I feel late to the party, but nonetheless this might be useful to someone.

On my model, the Global Open works just fine, but the Global Close will only work with the key in the lock of the drivers door. Hold the key in the lock position, and everything will shut.

I'd prefer it worked from the fob, but seeminly this is not the case, guess that's Health and Saftey spoiling it for those not stupid enough to get stuck in the windows they are closing!

 

Great discussion and thread idea! Thanks all.

 

This forum has been a very good tool for me, so I add to it when I can. I have seen very little discussion on changing the Xenon bulbs, so here is my 2 cents from a recent change I performed.

Bulb type is D2S; OEM bulb is Philips, but Orsam/Sylvania will work. No need to replace the ballast or entire assembly as the dealer would recommend (at $285-$360 each no less). I purchased Sylvania bulbs off of Amazon for $45 each. Please buy two bulbs so you not one of "those guys" who cheaped-out and bought only one bulb, making the color spectrum unmatched for each bulb due to age differences.

To access the expired bulbs, the bumper cover will have to be removed. Rick's (JoycesJag) write up here is an excellent source and will get you 95% of the way there.

The remaining 5% is removing the headlight assembly from the frame of the car. 4 10MM bolts hold each side in place. Remove the dust cover on the xenon bulb, and twist out the igniter/power supply; there are instructions printed on the back, and it is very easy to twist off. Remove the green power cord. Un-clip the wire springs, and remove the old bulb.

Place in new bulb (not touching any glass parts), lining up the the socket markings. Re-clip the spring. Now this part is important. DO NOT plug in the green wire before twisting on the igniter/power supply. It should twist on as easily as it came off. If you plug in the green wire first, it will not twist on as there is a small latch that activates once the power cord is plugged in (although it is more logical to plug it in first, and one needs small fingers to plug it in after). Once the igniter/power supply is twisted in, plug in green power cord. Replace dust cover. Rebolt to frame. Replace bumper cover.

Depending on the condition of the undertray bolts to the bumper are, it should not take very long to do this whole procedure. Due to rusted bolts/u-nuts on my car, it took quite awhile to remove mine. It also took me 20 minutes of futzing around with the green power cord before I realized that there was a switch that activates a locking mechanism inside the power supply cartridge when plugged in. Replacing the bumper after install took no longer than 30 minutes. So, ideally, 1.5 hours of your time plus $90 in parts to save $500 to $600, if not more, is time well spent.

 

I searched for a problem I'm having (electronic park break fault) on google and found this forum. This forum and this thread are awsome! I have only had my s-type for a few months but I've learned a ton I didn't know just from this thread alone. Thanks to all! I am going to make myself a regular around here!!!!

 

Awesome hints

 

Well, as I noted there is some logic in the overall behavior of the car, I tried this:

Standing at stop light - activate the park brake while your'e at D position with the gear. No need anymore to push on the brake pedal..
It will auto-release as soon as you touch the acceleration pedal....

Nice feature - I don't know the impact on the pads - but it is working effectively.

 

Nice tricks and tips, want to try the window up and down to see if it works on mine. didn't even know such a feature was available.

will update once i have tried it.

cheers

 

windows go up and down with lock unlock botton on the key, super kool.

 

Have not tried any of the tips yet but I surely will soon when the weather gets better
Brilliant well done !!

 

Could it be that the auto close on the windows is not the default setting? After a battery disconnect you have to reset that.

Close window, hold the button to close position for 2 seconds, release and wait 2 seconds, press the close and again hold for 2 seconds. This has to be done on each window you want to "auto up".

Perhaps this is what is needed to have it work globally.