Hi guys!
I didn't want to start a new thread, but the welcome introduction thread doesn't attract attention over time. That's why I decided to start a new "V6 British racing green" thread, where I will gradually add questions/answers to which I may not have found the right answer on the forum. And maybe in time I will be of use to other F-type owners who are looking for answers.
Here is a link to a video from my first oil service, which I spent time with this week. When the package with the aluminum conversion kit for replacing all plastic cooling parts arrives, I will decide to dismantle the SC and subsequently replace all weak engine parts, the compressor clutch and dismantle the Sympozer. Despite the attempt of the German JLR service center, I still have a small oil leak on the right side of the timing chain cover, which cost the original owner two unnecessary alternator replacements. Hopefully I will have time to make all the major adjustments by spring...


1.​ List of essential tools for onboard the F-type
I would like to know what tools/parts you would recommend for a holiday, for example? I would like to go to Sardinia again...
I have already configured the necessary tools for the XK-8 or Tdi Land Rover Defender (and there are quite a few), but with the limited space available in the F-type convertible boot, I really have to save space. I can fix a lot of things myself... but it's just not possible without a wrench. What would you recommend? Thanks for the ideas and your own experience.




2. Is that okay?
I saw this cable/line/bowden when changing the oil in AT. According to the JLR part number it should be the Keyless Vehicle Module / RFA (Remote Control). I'm a little scared that it almost touches the cardan shaft... It has free movement. Is this correct or is there a mistake somewhere?
Thank you very much for your observations.

 

Hi and congrats on the car!

The line drawings you have are for a vintage Jaguar E type.. (series 1 @1961 through 68 or series 2@ 1968-71) and probably not needed for a modern Jaguar...

1. The F takes its own specialized (for the most part) jack. The car comes with a bottle of white sealant and an air compressor that is supposed to push the sealant in to the problem tire to seal it and hopefully get you to a repair facility. Often the tire sealant has passed its useful date and you then should get a replacement. Amazon has a universal tire sealant (Airman 450 ML unibottle) that fits perfectly in the same foam spot in my 2017 coupe. Besides buying the F jack, I purchased the wheel lug nut socket and a breaker bar that would be needed to remove a wheel. There is ample space in the boot/trunk to store all this.

2. carry fluids that may be needed.. Spec coolant, maybe spec brake fluid and also a good fire extinguisher with EN3-7 or EN3-8 ratings.

3. perhaps some extra fuses in a variety of amperages.

4. Read other threads to decide on buying a OBD reader.. if the car presents with a check engine light, the reader may be able to guide you as to what is going on with the car, and if it is safe to continue driving.

5. A tow/rescue service membership. It may not be safe to try to fix the car where it is... get it and you to a better location.

I'm sure there will be other owners respond, who have done long distance drives in an F and can suggest additional tools/parts.

 

Check and make sure the tow hook is still in the car. It is stored in the trunk near the battery. They tend to go missing.

 

Thanks for your insights gentlemen.
I have been driving Land Rovers and X100s for many years, and I use Mongoose (for X100), Aircarsoft JLR, Dashcommand and Cars Scanner diagnostics).
I carry a small mobile workshop and spare parts as needed.
But I don't have that much space in the trunk of the F-type, so I'm looking for inspiration for what is really necessary.
Thank you very much for your advice! I immediately ordered the Airman Unibottle 450 set, also a tow hook (20 Eur) it wasn't in the car.
I have a fire extinguisher,
I will monitor the fluids and take them with me if necessary.
I will only take simple tools - a screwdriver, battery contact wrenches for resetting after diagnostics - it never sleeps.
I haven't found a small wheel nut wrench, a jack yet. On the Defender I used a special air bag connected to the exhaust - it lifted the car without any problems. But it won't fit here.
I will read the forum again and maybe I will discover other ideas.
If possible, I will repair the car myself.
I don't have a warranty on my F-type and I don't have accident, theft or breakdown insurance. It's very expensive here.
Now I'm going to replace the cooling pipes and e.t.c.

 

There is also a holder for the tow hook as well if you are interested. It is hard to track down as on the parts diagrams it is listed as "foam block". It is literally a block of Styrofoam. The part number for the coupe is T2R13381. It goes next to the battery. I am not sure if it is the same part number for the vert. Maybe someone with a vert can chime in?

 

You made reference to resetting the car if it won't sleep, but I'll post the longer explanation for those that

Do not leave anything plugged into the OBD port. After anything is connected to the OBD port -- emissions check, dealer visit, etc -- disconnect the battery for at least 10 seconds, to reset the car. If you do not, the body control module will not put the car to sleep and it will drain the battery. You can verify whether the car is asleep by closing the door and coming back in about 15 minutes without the key. If the red triangle on the hazard button is still illuminated, the car is awake and will not go to sleep until you reset it. It takes a couple of days on a good, fully charged battery before you start getting a low battery warning on the dash when you get in the car. At four to five days, you will have completely discharged the battery. You will need a charger than can handle a completely dead AGM battery and trickle charge it back to the point where a normal charger cycle works.

This is a bug in the firmware on the body control module. Jaguar hasn't fixed it and based on the rather flowery commentary the last time I chatted with my service writer and the dealership, it won't ever be fixed and it causes no end of problems, even for the dealership.

As far as what to carry in the car? Tow hook, OBD reader, and air pump are all I carry. I don't bother with fluids on the theory that if fluids are good when I leave, and something goes wrong while driving, there is a 99% chance that I won't be able to add fluids to limp home -- cooling line splits, for example. As others have noted, an OBD reader gives you an idea of whether a CEL is an pull over and wait for a tow or reseat the fuel cap and drive on kind of problem. A tire problem, that results in a leak fast enough that you can't pump it up and drive somewhere to get it checked, probably isn't going to be helped by sealant and using sealant is guaranteed to result in buy a new tire (probably two) and a full TPM module. Anything else is going to result in use of the tow hook to load it on a flatbed and get it home or to a shop.

That said, I live in a major metro area and don't regularly drive my F-Type to places where it would be hard to get service. If I live way out in West Texas where it's 100 miles to the nearest town, I might approach things differently.

 

We carry a tire plug kit in our 'Vert. It is stored 'out of sight' below the removable trunk floor panel.
Murphy's Law: by being prepared, we have never needed to use it.

What's the old joke? "All the tools you need are a working cell phone and an AAA card!"

++++++++++++

Does anyone else store an umbrella in the elastic straps in the boot?

 

I also carry a plug kit as well as the standard sealant and compressor. However, plugging a tire while its on the car is difficult at best on a front wheel and nearly impossible on a rear wheel. Therefore, on longer drives away from home and into more remote areas, I also bring a 19mm plastic-sleeved socket, a 1/2" breaker bar, and this jack:


https://jaguar.oempartsonline.com/oe...embly-c2p26068

Sure it takes some space (especially in the vert) but being able to get the tire off the car to either plug it or bring it to a shop to replace/repair is priceless. Plus, the car is so low that most normal jacks won't work (especially if the car has a flat which makes it even lower still.

I drive with the peace of mind knowing that because I have all that I will never get a flat.

 

My hook was under a little door on the battery side of the trunk. Didn't know it was there for 5 years!

 

Matt, I prefer to travel with someone who carries that stuff. I carry a LiIon jump box too.

 

I'd do the check before the battery disconnect since not all things plugged into the OBD port will trigger the drain. None of my dealer (or indie) visits have triggered the drain, so they seem to know what they're doing.

 

Yes, do look for the jack ThunderDump posted. I did find one and tested it out. I had a slow leak in a tire, shop said they could get to it faster if I just brought the wheel in. Don't have a lift anymore, so the jack worked perfectly. The photo showing the jack is a bit blurry, but it measured out to about 3.5 inches. If the car has been lowered, that IS a concern for using this type of jack.
There are little arrow'notches' in the underside of the car to show where the jack should be placed.

This link has some fairly decent photos, go to POST # 20

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...cation-127665/

 

My 2014 F-Type came with a space-saver spare as standard so it also came with the same jack as Valerie shows.
I have used it two or three times on the side of the road and it worked perfectly OK (albeit slow and tedious) even with VAP lowering springs.
But the OEM wheel brace is pretty useless, it's too short to get decent leverage and the socket slips easily on the stock crappy two piece wheel nuts, so one of the first things I did was invest in a collapsible 1/2" breaker bar and a plastic coated 19 mm socket which I store in the rear cubby along with a range of basic tools and equipment.
Also another thing I did early on was to get a set of Gorilla brand one-piece wheel nuts which are waaaay better than the stock nuts and a piece of cake to remove and refit. Also a plug type puncture repair kit, Stop N Go brand, used twice and worked a charm each time, and last but not least a lithium battery tyre inflator (NOCO brand).
With these basics you can fairly easily fix a simple nail/screw puncture on the side of the road yourself.

 

For those with no spare or jack I would create your own kit - scissor jack, plug kit, compressor, breaker bar and socket, tarp to lay on, and LED headlamp. I also have some basic tools, multimeter, and duct tape as well in case other issues arise. Yes it will take up space in the small trunk but being able to address a flat on your own is peace of mind.

My flats occurred late at night and in dangerous situations. Not having a kit and not having the tow truck show up when expected on the AAA app made me vow to never be put in that position again.

You can plug a tire without removing the wheel f you move the car enough to get the right angle to push the plug in. The key with a DIY kit is to do a dry run to make sure everything flows, as you will want to do this quickly when the real thing happens.

 

I got a screw in my left rear tyre and tried to fix it with the Stop N Go kit but couldn't get the screw out! It was deeply embedded and not enough showing to get a good grip on it. So, two new tyres instead, and the pressures don't need topping up every couple of days!

 

Hi guys.
I've had the F-type for six months now and it's time to summarize the technical experiences I've had so far.
Thanks to the information here on the forum, I was already prepared for the most important mandatory tasks immediately after purchase!
So I knew that the purchase price itself would not be the last investment that awaits me.

The F-type that I bought in Germany had only 53 thousand km on the clock, which was great!
Immediately after purchase and arrival home, after a few weeks of getting to know it "on dry land" because winter was starting, I decided to update the water plastic pipes. At the same time, I wanted to replace the SC clutch and during this operation, dismantle and seal the timing cover on the right side, which had already been repaired in a German service, which gradually led to two alternator replacements, on which the leaking oil dripped. And of course, the removal of the symphozer!
I have my own equipped motorcycle/car Garage, so I changed the engine oil, inspected the entire bottom of the car, which confirmed repeated oil leaks from the right timing cover.
I also changed the oil and filter in the automatic transmission and the oil in the differential.
All of this went completely smoothly and I was looking forward to finally getting down to updating the cooling. I ordered almost all of the aluminum pipes on Aliexpress, the aluminum thermostat housing on the Polish Allegro and some other little things like the MPV valve, the compressor clutch on the European Amazon.
Today I know that removing the compressor and replacing the pipes is not difficult, but because I wanted to be sure that I wouldn't break anything, I accepted an offer from my friend, who is a professional JLR mechanic and wanted to help me with the work.

So in April we finally got down to business! All the work went smoothly.
I was very proud of how well it all turned out...but only until I went for a test drive.
After driving about 500 meters and giving it a good gas, the car stalled and the engine started to stutter on 4 cylinders. (V6).
So I drove carefully back to the workshop...and called this news to the mechanic who was on his way home.
He admitted that he probably knew what it was. He said that I should check the ground cable that goes to the timing cover that we had sealed. He said he must have forgotten to tighten it!
Well, and unfortunately he was right! I tightened the cable, cleared the errors with diagnostics and hoped that the matter was settled. But it wasn't! The engine was still stuttering.
And that's when it all went wrong!
The endless search for faults began. Here on the forum I read all related topics, tried all conceivable combinations of swapping spark plugs, inductors and measuring cables.
But it was no use! So I disassembled the entire SC again myself to go through all the possible places that I read about on the forum and where we could screw something up.
Nothing!
My friend arrived, we reassembled everything together...but the engine was still running on 4 cylinders!
By the method of elimination and thinking during sleepless nights, I finally came to the conclusion that probably due to the loose ground on the engine, when adding gas, a larger current flowed elsewhere than the current should go, which led to damage to the engine control unit.
So I put the multimeter into action to check the circuits and when I disconnected the engine control unit and all the values ​​on the cables started to be ok, my assumption was confirmed!
The error comes from the control unit! All the other wiring was fine! We found a company that repairs control units. They tried to fix the unit there...they succeeded a little, but the engine still didn't work as it should! And time is running out!!!

So my friend decided that we wouldn't get anywhere like this! He accepted his mistake and faced the whole thing like a straight man! He ordered a new control unit from AD in the regional capital, including data entry! It won't be cheap, but there is no other option. I wasn't at this event, it would have been unnecessarily stressful for me and I would have been useless there anyway. I preferred to use the time to prepare the XK8. In the evening, the mechanic calls me and says he has two messages for me.
One good, the other bad! Hmmm. I'm curious! The good one was that AD had started the car with the new unit (they also had to replace the damaged injection) and that the engine was already running like a kitten on all cylinders.
And the bad one? Well, that's worse...
During the test drive, he only drove three kilometers and the SC got stuck!!!!
To get back to the workshop, he had to cut the belt... Fortunately, the water pump is on a different belt, so the car continued to cool! He was driving really slowly so that the engine wouldn't suck up any sawdust from the compressor, which could then be sent to the catalytic converter, which would be another disaster! I don't know what I was thinking at that moment, but I definitely want to forget it. However, I kept my cool and that's a good thing...
Since I had paid for the ferry to Sardinia and the planned departure was in four days, the mechanic decided to take another desperate step.
He found an SC in Poland online (I still don't know how much the compressor will cost me - I don't have the bill yet) and went straight to Poland to get it. He took the engine apart, overhauled the compressor, used the original JLR SC spring clutch and installed it in the car. Two days before I left for Italy, he handed me the car. I quickly did a 300km test drive... which went great!
So my wife and I decided to take a chance... and drive in the F-type!

Basically, I didn't believe that the car would last. All the repairs were done at the last minute and the engine with the SC clutch rattled like an old diesel.
But I didn't want to give up and drive the XK8.
So we insured ourselves against all possible cases of malfunctions and repatriations and set off a little scared.
The car ran like clockwork and I was slowly getting used to the SC clutch rattling when idling...so peace reigned. But not for long!

After 5 days of driving around beautiful Sardinia, I smelled the smell of coolant! I will simply never have peace!? After a thorough inspection of the engine, I found that the coolant expansion tank had burst and a thin stream was spraying directly onto the place where the symposer had previously been. The fluid was flowing down all the possible cables to the engine, to the catalytic converters and to the exhausts. That's why the stench!
The water leaks weren't very massive, so I didn't start the repair until the next day, when we were staying right by the sea. I'll work, the others can relax.

I bought some super glue at the China market, dug up some hoses and tubes in the trash can so I could drain the coolant into PET bottles. I sealed the container with PVC patch and glue, and wrapped everything in terrorist tape just to be safe. I let it dry overnight and in the morning I filled and bled the entire system. The repair worked for about three days, but after getting off the boat it failed again. We still had 1200 km to go through Italy and Austria to the Czech Republic. I don't know if the repair failed at the gluing point, but the fluid leak was especially noticeable when I turned off the engine. I added less than half a liter during the whole trip... so it was fine.

Immediately after arrival I ordered a new container - the price was ridiculous, and the replacement took about half an hour.

The car is now waiting for the compressor to be dismantled again, because a package with a new original Eaton clutch for the SC has just arrived from XK store.at. I will do it and hopefully I will have some peace for a while!
And one more piece of information, while I was returning from Trip, the courier delivered a package from Viezu. Over the weekend, my daughter and I played with programming the new map and Yesterday I tested how the 340PS F-type drives with the new 420PS. Perfect for me!

Thanks and for your attention!

Hopefully this thread will help someone who will have a similar problem.

I have not seen a damaged SC yet, but I am determined to have it checked to see why it actually happened! Maybe because of the cheap plastic clutch? I don't know.
If the SC can be repaired, I will definitely keep it as a spare part.

The F-type is a beautiful, charismatic car that I enjoy driving! It makes sense!

And one last thing...

While driving with a temporarily repaired expansion tank, I was driving at 110-130km/h, which resulted in absolutely amazing fuel consumption!
Only 7.4l of 95 Natural!