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New forum member here looking for feedback. I looked at a nice 2016 coupe yesterday that the selling dealer said needed a new engine. The car has an excellent service history performed by a Jaguar Dealer. I had them start it for me, besides the knock (see video) it didn't appear to run rough at all and idled down normally. I could not access the passenger side unfortunately. I pulled the oil filler cap, it was clean and peering into the area below with flashlight, nothing was amiss. AFAIK, that knock is was not timing chain or supercharger coupler, but I felt like it was coming from the top of the passenger side. Are these known to some type of sudden failure that would cause such a knock ?. Now, I'm a retired professional mechanic, but have no experience with these cars. I'm interested in buying it because it comes with a substantial price reduction and hoping someone has experience with this type of failure that can be repaired without pulling the engine for perhaps a few thousand in parts. I have posted a YouTube short of the engine knock.
Thanks in Advance.
That's bad!
Definitely not timing chain rattle or SC coupler rattle as such, although the knock is so loud it could be masking one or both of those things.
Sounds awful like rod knock to me, that's the worst case scenario.
Maybe just maybe it's just SC tensioner rattle, could be (very) worn SC shaft/blade rattle, best bet would be to remove the SC drive belt and run the engine briefly and see if that eliminates or at least reduces the racket. If it does then you have narrowed it down to something SC related, if not you need to look elsewhere.
I tend to believe the dealer this time, it's something very serious and the car needs a new engine, I would run away from this one.
I will say, at the dealer we don't do any shortblock repairs, we don't even have the parts available for sale separately, but the aftermarket does support them and I've seen rebuilds be fine. I would count on that one needing the engine out and torn down to verify the extent of the damage first. This does not sound like a simple/cheap fix.
Rod knock. It has lost a rod bearing.
Mine lost one, same knock. I safed my engine, new bearings, new rods and a crankshaft resize. It was very nice job to do. Journal seems good A former rod bearing
Look up Adam's F project. I sure wish there were more like him around. He took an F that most WOULD run away from and not only did the bodywork, but then engine work as well. Maybe in my next life I can get that smart!
Rod knock. It has lost a rod bearing.
Mine lost one, same knock. I safed my engine, new bearings, new rods and a crankshaft resize. It was very nice job to do. Journal seems good A former rod bearing
Ok, Thanks !. Did you pull the engine to perform the repair ?. I'm not sure this can be done under the car, looks like the crossmember gets in the way.
Ok, Thanks !. Did you pull the engine to perform the repair ?. I'm not sure this can be done under the car, looks like the crossmember gets in the way.
Ok, Thanks !. Did you pull the engine to perform the repair ?. I'm not sure this can be done under the car, looks like the crossmember gets in the way.
Yes, best way is by dropping the subframe. It is a total dismantling of the engine. I saw it as a chance to fully build it. These are really nice engines to work on.
Same happened to me last year. Oil changes were recorded each at 4K miles and the big end bearing still went. The engine was built in 2017 and had done only 34K miles. I know this is extremely rare but it can happen. Oil starvation is a thing even on a well maintained car. Mine went while I pulled out of a junction turning left on a slope. 1st gear, 6K RPM. Engine was hot, coolant fine, oil was only a few weeks old.
I put a JLR remanufactured engine with all the updated JLR alloy water pipes, water pump, etc covered by a £500 3rd party warranty. It would've cost me £16,000 so I was very very lucky. JLR gives 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. Mine came with new block, rockers, the works so can't tell the difference between a new a reman engine to be honest.
I now change the oil and filter myself at 3K Miles. Changed first time at 1K miles for good measure and will keep an eye on the lab analysis report to ensure it's all going well. These engines need to be run with oil close to the maximum level to minimise the risk of starvation at the bottom during rapid acceleration especially on an ascend. I wish I knew this sooner! Suffice to say, I no longer do pulls in that scenario. It still hurts every time I drive past that junction coming back from work almost every day 🤬
2016 V6s Engine Knock - Opinions Pls
