Car has been sitting all winter, but looking to get back on her now that warm weather is here.

She is a 2006 3.oL auto with ABS and DSC and intermittent codes after she warms up.
General consensus is cold solder in the ABS board. I am having trouble finding a replacement locally. WIll try and pull it down for repair.
Car is stuck in limp mode with the red !..
IF I hook up my laptop with the old JLR software to the car can I turn off DSC, or tell the car not to look for it? Basically over ride the error.

The other question would be if I start it up and the lights are not on, can i hold down the dsc button to shut it off prior to it getting hot and throwing the error?

Thanks guys

 

Wheel speed sensors OK? A bad wheel speed sensor can give the ABS warning. If you have 2 wheel speed sensors out the speedo won't work. Those sensor codes are C11xx. Chassis codes and not powertrain codes.

There are plenty of places online that advertise repair for ABS circuit boards. I almost pulled the trigger on using one recently (for a Toyota, not the Jag) but found the correct ABS at a junkyard for less than the repair quote.

 

My suggestion would also be aiming at the wheel spend sensors, but in a different way (yes the sensors themselves could also be buggered, but that's not that likely):
It is likely that the signal from the wheel speed sensors (maybe just not from 1 sensor) does not get thru to the ABS module.
It may be damage wire, or more likely a corroded connector-contact, There is a connector at the sensor, and a well hidden connector behind the wheel arch liner. and then the wires go to the big blue connector on the ABS module. Even there could be a contact problem with the pins (I had than - that was ridiculously difficult to find - I replaced one of the pins in the big blue.)

SEE:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...sensor-199510/

ALSO: You might have cold solder points for the power supply in the ABS module. It is possible - even if quite difficult - to remove that module, to force your way thru to the solder points and re-solder them. There are youtube videos about that.

And another possibility: Dirt in the "trigger-sprocket" for the sensor, but also not that likely.

 

When the used one shows up can I plug it in and ground to chassis before installing and plumbing to see if my traction and red light warning error code is gone?

If it is below 60 degrees the car does not throw an error code in til it warms up, so I am thinking it's a cold solder problem.

On my cold start this morning with no lights, I held the traction control button down for 8-10 seconds, and it shut it off displaying only the traction control light. Once it warmed up though, all lights came on again.

 

Did you find a used ABS assembly? I would not plug in the electrical without doing the plumbing (and preliminary bleeding) first because the ABS sensors will immediately see hydraulic pressure is low and will turn on the ABS pump. That pump could be damaged by running it dry, I think the hydraulic fluid is the lubricant.

 

Is it easier to remove the brain portion of the abs on mine in the car and substitute it with the new to me one? If I remove the brain is there anything I need to worry about falling or popping out?

Or should I install the whole new unit and bleed the brakes?

Thank you so far for all of the good suggestions, here is an update.

I am at the car this week and the used assembly is coming in a few days.

I have replaced all of the wheel sensors and taken a quick look at the rings.

I am leaning towards a cold solder problem as when it is below 60 she runs perfect till she warma up. Also when in limp mode I am getting a communication error, not a failed system error. Any thoughts?

Also prior to 2019, the last owner replace at least the electronic portion as I see junk yard ink

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