'03 X-Type 2.5L - Lots of weird ABS/Speed/Cruise issues
Been using a X-Type that was given to me way back in 2018 as my daily driver. Replaced quite a bit on it already, so I am not afraid to do work - rotors, pads, starter, a/c compressor, alternator, transmission computer, etc.
Lately, here is what happens:
-start the car, just a typical check engine light for nothing important
-brakes feel like ABS is trying to constantly kick in as the peddle does that vibrating that is typical of ABS
-ABS Light comes on, I can no longer use cruise control
-sometimes, the speedometer gives up/only shows 50% of the speed, but no actual loss to the car
-peddle feels normal
-my fog light indicator comes on when I use my left turn signal OR brake
-if the ABS light is NOT on, I turn on my left turn signal, AND press the brake pedal, the light/sound for turning goes at 3x speed
I have run codes, I get back I believe 2 speed sensor codes and ABS codes. I do not have them immediately on hand. I checked the drop in wheel sensors , all seem fine with good wires and connections.
One thing to note is that sometimes when I am backing up right after park and sometimes forward, I hear a loud metal pop noise that I believe is coming from the rear left end of the vehicle.
Not sure where to go with this information. I REALLY do not want to have to replace axles if I can help it.
Other misc quirks that are not important but nice to haves if they are simple fixes:
I can't recharge the A/C. My pressure gauge shows 60psi that builds immediately after I empty the line. I assume a vacuum/air leak somewhere.
My car makes a loud whine noise when starting to accelerate a low speeds. It could be a bearing in the drive belt area. I do have new alternator and a/c clutch as this point already.
No heat in the winter. I kind of just ignore that fact, just makes the morning commute a bit of a workout as I have to manually clear windows everyday of light snow.
Other than that, car has been good for a freebie. The highway MPG is awful. I think I am hitting MAYBE 22. I don't run and gun. 60MPH is about 2100RPMs. Seems off but I do not have access to a programmer nor is it worth it to take it to a dealer.
Lately, here is what happens:
-start the car, just a typical check engine light for nothing important
-brakes feel like ABS is trying to constantly kick in as the peddle does that vibrating that is typical of ABS
-ABS Light comes on, I can no longer use cruise control
-sometimes, the speedometer gives up/only shows 50% of the speed, but no actual loss to the car
-peddle feels normal
-my fog light indicator comes on when I use my left turn signal OR brake
-if the ABS light is NOT on, I turn on my left turn signal, AND press the brake pedal, the light/sound for turning goes at 3x speed
I have run codes, I get back I believe 2 speed sensor codes and ABS codes. I do not have them immediately on hand. I checked the drop in wheel sensors , all seem fine with good wires and connections.
One thing to note is that sometimes when I am backing up right after park and sometimes forward, I hear a loud metal pop noise that I believe is coming from the rear left end of the vehicle.
Not sure where to go with this information. I REALLY do not want to have to replace axles if I can help it.
Other misc quirks that are not important but nice to haves if they are simple fixes:
I can't recharge the A/C. My pressure gauge shows 60psi that builds immediately after I empty the line. I assume a vacuum/air leak somewhere.
My car makes a loud whine noise when starting to accelerate a low speeds. It could be a bearing in the drive belt area. I do have new alternator and a/c clutch as this point already.
No heat in the winter. I kind of just ignore that fact, just makes the morning commute a bit of a workout as I have to manually clear windows everyday of light snow.
Other than that, car has been good for a freebie. The highway MPG is awful. I think I am hitting MAYBE 22. I don't run and gun. 60MPH is about 2100RPMs. Seems off but I do not have access to a programmer nor is it worth it to take it to a dealer.
That would be very hard to diagnose standing in front of the car and even harder from the distance. I have only one suggestion: Given that so many strange things are happening, which do not make sense, my bet would be either of a short circuit issue or an intermittent ground issue - so either somewhere the insulation of a cable came off and there is a short circuit now, or an intended ground connection has become corroded over time and does not - or does only intermittently - connect to ground. And since you mentioned that you do not have cruise control any more: I created that problem for myself, and next time I find time, I will fix it again: I added LED DTRL (Daytime Running light) to the car and picked some contacts of where to get the required voltages from the fuse-box for ignition on and for low bean on (DTRL needs to be off, when low beam is on, at least in Australia - thus, I have a relay opening, when ignition is on and a second relay, which cuts out, when low bean is on as well). Anyway - this should work, but with low beam on I can no longer engage Cruise control on my 2005 X-Type 2.1. With that I want to say: It is very easy to get all kind of defects and weird stuff, when there are connections, which should not be there, or if there are connections missing...
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Abusing, I would start with replacing the pick-ups on the wheels in question. What I mean by this is if it is the rear wheels, you will end up replacing the rear axles. For the fronts, you will be replacing the front wheel bearings. That is your most likely suspect for something like this. Next, I would be looking at the ABS module. Hearing that the speedo drops to 50% is really weird as the car does not have a failure mode that would cause that. If you lose 2 wheel speed sensors, the car is designed to drop the speedo to zero, not 50%. The only way to get 50% is to have a fault in the ABS module that does not trigger the loss of 2 wheel speed sensors.
If you have issues with a rear wheel, it will be a good idea to look at the wiring. Some people have gotten something into the wheel arch and it has damaged the wiring, which could be causing an intermittent issue.
Wish you luck.
If you have issues with a rear wheel, it will be a good idea to look at the wiring. Some people have gotten something into the wheel arch and it has damaged the wiring, which could be causing an intermittent issue.
Wish you luck.
If you have rear ABS sensor codes you could have broken "tone rings" or "reluctor rings". The hub they sit on swells with rust over time and breaks the teeth in the ring that the sensor is trying to read. If you live in a place with snow you probably have road salt so have rust. They are a bit of work to get to and replace but they are inexpensive to fix. Not going to fix all your ABS problems but might fix enough that the others become clearer?
https://www.welshent.com/Transmissio...tor-Rear-Drive
I too have a strange whine noise when accelerating when the car is just started in the morning (summer or winter), like a sound effect from an old sci-fi movie. The sound goes away by the time I reach the end of my street, maybe 500 feet and I won't hear it again unless the car has been sitting unused for several hours. Been happening long enough and it sounds more plastic than metal so I stopped worrying about it.
Your mileage is typical I think. The EPA rating of the car (3.0L auto) is 16 city 22 highway. I had a dragging brake problem at one point that was subtle and I noticed it because the mileage was going down. After a typical drive you might carefully touch the wheels and see if you have one that is warmer than the others indicating a problem.
https://www.welshent.com/Transmissio...tor-Rear-Drive
I too have a strange whine noise when accelerating when the car is just started in the morning (summer or winter), like a sound effect from an old sci-fi movie. The sound goes away by the time I reach the end of my street, maybe 500 feet and I won't hear it again unless the car has been sitting unused for several hours. Been happening long enough and it sounds more plastic than metal so I stopped worrying about it.
Your mileage is typical I think. The EPA rating of the car (3.0L auto) is 16 city 22 highway. I had a dragging brake problem at one point that was subtle and I noticed it because the mileage was going down. After a typical drive you might carefully touch the wheels and see if you have one that is warmer than the others indicating a problem.
Thank you all for the information. I will be looking into the rings and wiring first. I will try to save axles for last. I've done them before on two other vehicles.
I get them done but I end up very angry at the end of it everytime.
I get them done but I end up very angry at the end of it everytime.
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