I recently removed the inlet manifold to replace a rear oxygen sensor. Upon starting the motor, I have experienced a P1108 error code. It was 'pending' for awhile, but now is steady. The electrical plug that plugs into the MAP sensor became damaged somehow during manifold removal and the top is broken. I seem to have it plugged in as far as it goes and put a dob of silicone on it to keep it in place. The light remains on, but also my cruise control fails to set 'on'. I have check fuse F18 and it is okay. I have also ordered a new plug and will try to replace that (when it arrives from overseas). In the meantime, I would love some advice on whether I am on the right track. I am considering buying a new MAP sensor as well.

 

My chart states:

P1108 Concerns with the MAP Sensor.
Map Sensor
MAP sensor circuits.

That's it, then a long "pinpoint" of tracking I have not read.

 

@Yorta2:
According to your post above the MAP sensor worked before you removed the intake.
So I would think that the sensor itself is not damaged. But you wrote you damaged the connector.
Are all the pins in the male and female connector still in their place? And the pins cannot move out of their position as soon as you connect the plug?
Do the pins look good/clean or are they corroded? Can you clean them with a wire brush?
Do you have CRC 2.26 electrical contact spray to spray onto the pins? If not, at least WD40?
Yes. A blob of silicone is one way - but another is a cable tie...

And I know: P1108 is the MAP sensor code, but just in case, better check as well, if you have reconnected the MAF sensor, too - cause that one is easy to forget...

 

Thanks for the replies. Peter, the damage was that the locking clip on the plug broke off. I have since seen that even with the silicon sealant dry the plug moves slightly our after it is pushed right in (if you can see what I mean). Maybe the force that is normally required to get the connector to lock in, i n't there and it isa not making full contact. I'll probably have to wait until I get the new connector.
Still don't know why the Cruise doesn't work. There is no other sign that it is inoperable other than the fact it does not operate. When I operate the 'roller' button upwards, there is an indication that cruise is on, but it isn't. When I push the 'Resume' button there is an indication cruise is engaged as well, but it isn't. When I then push the 'Cancel' button, there is an indication that cruise is cancelled, even though it hasn't engaged. Cruise operated normally before the engine light illuminated.

 

So if the MAP connector is not all the way in, there is no proper contact.
This is why I mentioned above the cable tie. With a cable tie you can force the connector to remain in its intended position.

PS: The cruise control on the X-Type I bought most recently also does not work. I have not figured that one out yet. First step is obviously to check all related fuses. Mine were OK. Next step is to check, if the switch at the brake pedal is working as intended... I have not done that yet.

PS2: Obviously checking the cruise control switches in the steering wheel is also an idea - I skipped that step for now, as I swapped the whole steering wheel and not change to the non operational cruise control.

 

Thanks again, Peter. However there isn't any way I can fit a cable tie around the MAP sensor and attach it to the manifold (or other). On the bright side, I think I may have solved the Cruise problem. A cable to the throttle mechanism appeared to be correctly attached, but when I wriggled it (as a final check) it came off. I reckon that is the culprit - so bloody easy. I utilised a large pair of vice grips to compress the plug into the MAP sensor (not too tightly, but enough to pul the two together firmly) and I was surprised just how far it moved. I cleared the fault light and on first 2 startups the light hasn't returned, so I added more silicon and am hoping when it dries I can remove the vice grips and await my new part. I sourced the connector from New Zealand for much cheaper than getting one from USA (mainly due to postage charges). Just hope the light stays away in the meantime, but I doubt it - very snug.

 

Yorta2,

Mine doesn't have that feature but because the 2.1 V6 engine is not "drive by wire", instead employing a manual throttle cable, the cruise control is a separate mechanism that has a secondary throttle cable attaching to the throttle spindle.

I imagine you would have disconnected that secondary throttle cable when you removed the manifold, did it get refitted (attaches to the outrigger cable point of the throttle spindle).
Grabbed an online picture some time ago that showed cruise control attachment point.

 

I would not force a connector in place with pliers - danger of causing damage.
I looked at my MAP sensor and I can't see why you can't wrap a cable tie around sensor and connector - or even electrical tape.
So your cruise problem only started after working on the intake? I did miss that - yes, cable makes sense then.

And an idea, which might be helpful in your case: I know, you cannot use black heat glue instead of silicone, due to the heat in the engine compartment - BUT:
You can position the connector correctly with a little bit of black heat glue, which gets solid quite fast, and THEN you can put the silicone around, and then the silicone has a lot of time to dry, and you don't have to worry that the connector moves out while the silicone is drying.

And where were you able to order that connector?

 

The integrated water seal in the connectors makes them feel spongy when you try to first insert them due to trapped air compressing.
If you pres sit in fully and hold for a few seconds the air eventually releases and the plug tends to stay put as now it needs to create a vacuum to disengage....hence the popping sound when you release one.
I have a number of failed clips on plugs, and have used fine cable ties to secure them where possible in lieu of replacing the failed plug.

 

Peter, I ordered the plug from a company named NZEFI Ltd, in Christchurch, NZ.