Let me start first by Saying Hi to all the veterans of this forum. Problems with a recent purchase has brought me to the community.


I recently purchased my first Jaguar <2003 X type 2.5> Silver

The day after I purchased the car I took it out for a spin to get some time in it. After roughly 30 minutes of driving, I accelerated hard at 70 ish MPH and the car went into limp mode. Before that it ran drove and sounded great. However the battery was dead and it had to be jump started. And continues to need a jumpstart to get it running. I Have checked the appropriate relays and fuses aswell as most of the hoses. The dash indicates No Cruise Available with a yellow light, which I assume is the CEL.

The transmission shifts well.
The oil is clean and at proper level.
I have checked the PVC hose, it is the upgraded version from jaguar.
The Maf sensor appears factory but looks very clean

I feel like its the battery since that has been the weakest link since I Purchased the car.

I will go to the parts store early AM for a scan.

Thanks All

 

A bad or marginal battery, in almost any Jaguar will cause it to spit out codes, go into limp mode, indicate a transmission failure, etc.

Since you just bought the car, there are a few things you have to do post haste. Fill the transfer case!! Change the transmission fluid because Jaguar had some off the wall selling campaign where the transmission was filled for life, and we all know it would be the life of the trans, and hopefully not yours. Do the transmission fluid change a number of times. All it will cost you is the price of the fluid. I use Castrol import automatic transmission fluid. It works great, and only costs $20 for 5 liters). If your car has some miles on it, a half bottle of Lucas trans additive(NOT FLUSH) helps out in many ways. You will not need to change a pan gasket or filter, because the filter requires disassembly of the trans.

Grease everything you see, that can be greased. The transfer case has some weird method to change the fluid, because it doesn't drain all the way, and it doesn't fill all the way, if you use the factory plugs. Mine has a self made drain plug and fill plug on it, because it is supposed to have between 600 to 750 ml in it, depending on who you talk to. The transfer case fluid is 90w/140w gearlube, that you can also buy at a mass marketer, like Autozone, or Advance.

If you want to remain in love with any Jaguar, don't go to the dealer, for parts, or service, if you can help it. They will give you coffee and cookies, and at least around here will charge you $170 flat rate time, or any time they please, if it is a slow day.

Ford shares a few parts with Jaguars, such as the brakes on yours. These cars will use tires a little faster than a rear or front wheel drive, because the AWD is on all the time, thus scrubbing the tires a little more than usual.

This forum has more information, than you will ever need(I HOPE), and the people here are very smart, and come from all over the world, mostly the USA, Great Britain, and Australia. There are also copies of repair manuals on the forums, so you won't be left swingin in the rain......Welcome aboard.......Be cool.....Mike

 

Thank you for such a quick reply. I can tell this will be a great community, And that alone gives me more confidence in my new purchase.. Thank You!

Sorry for the delay i got called into work at the end of the week and got 30 hours in 3 days..

I am back now and actively working on the jag. I have purchased a new battery and installed it.

The car no longer shows gearbox fault. The CEL and ABS lights remain lit when the car is started and running. The start seem to be a bit ruff and it revs very slowly. There is no smoke. it feels as its not firing on all 6 cylinders. The car is very sluggish. Hardly excelerating to 30 mph. When the throttle is to the floor it occasionally skips the cel lights go off for a brief second and the car runs fine for that surge. It seems like it wants to go but something is keeping 3 cylinders from firing i assume.

I have not had the codes scanned yet however I plan on getting that done in the next couple hours. And I will return with the results.

 

Will the car stay in limp mode if the codes arent cleared after repair?

 

Ok back from the parts store with lots of codes, most i have seen on here before browsing threads...

P0171
P0301
P0305
P1316
P1033
P1053
P0333
P0335
P0442
P0603

C1165

I saw alot of misfires as well as knock sensor/ 02 sensor

 

Based on what you've presented, your car is begging for a new battery. I wouldn't even drive it till that's replaced.

 

I did buy a new battery yesterday and put it in the car before I drove it down to have the codes scanned.

I was going to check the imt o rings since the pvc is the new one from jaguar.

 

Did you clear the codes? If not, I'd clear them, whack those known common vacuum leaks, then rescan after a few drive cycles, now that you have a new battery.

 

Best thing to do is go buy yourself a code reader for autozone. Clear all the codes. Then recheck them after a few drive cycles. A lot of the codes are from a bad battery. and the misfires could be a bad coil or 2 p0301 and p0305 are coils 1 and 5. Back side of engine. I would change the imt rings and as long as you have the intake off change out the upper and lower intake o rings. You can get them cheap. tell autozone you have a 2004 Lincoln ls 3.0. The coils and o rings are the same.


Let us know what happens.


ps the c1165 is the right rear wheel speed sensor. It could be the sensor or a bad ring that the sensor reads. that's what your abs light is on.

Good luck,
The Dr!

 

Ok...

I wasnt sure if the codes needed to be cleared after the new battery. Could this be the reason why the car is still in limp mode???

it is also throwing the code for coil 3 P0303 aswell as the others.

I will run it back to the parts store this afternoon and have the codes cleared.
I am also getting the imt o rings aswell for now.

 

The codes will stay in there until they are cleared. However, it will have no bearing on the Limp Mode. It will stay in Limp Mode until the situation that is/was causing it is fixed or no longer present. That is why it is a good idea to clear the codes if you see a long list of them as a number might be very old and no longer relevant to your current situation. Start fresh and see what you have and you will get pointed in teh right direction on how to fix quickly.

 

Ok The pvc hose, check valve, and o rings have been replaced.

The vehicle still starts sluggish rough idle
The vehicle remains in limp mode

I guess it is time for another scan back to the parts store..... again.. I had two choices I picked this car over a cadillac and I am starting to think I made a mistake. Caddy 200k miles more reliable than jag with 130k? I cant believe a cadillac is made to a higher standard. Both cars owned and serviced by the same individual and not on a budget.

 

Turns out all 14 codes it had are all cleared. There is 1 remaining p0335
Crankshaft position sensor.

 

One bad cps will cause 14 codes to show up. If you need one I have a used one.30 bucks shipped to your door. Pm me and let me know. Thanks
The Dr!

 

Update.. The jag is now fully repaired.

She isnt throwing any codes. (except the wheel sensor)

The connector to the cps was completely gone leaving 2 wires bare near the cv axle. I purchased the connector from o reilly for $25 and wired it up. The car immediately realized all was well. The dash lights went off and the rpms go right past 3k and it sounds good.

Thank you to this website... The helpful info took me in the right direction and I couldnt ask for more. I am so glad i didnt get the cadillac now...

THANKS EVERYONE... I literally finished this up 10 minutes ago...