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2004 or 2005?

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Old 02-15-2015, 10:53 AM
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Question 2004 or 2005?

Hi
There are 2 cars that I found in craiglist by private seller and want to check out:
2004 x type, black, 81k miles, $2750
2005 x type, green, 86k miles, $3250

I need suggestion so as to which one should I prefer? Has there been any improvements in 05 model over 04?
Both the sellers say cars are in great condition but wonder why price is cheap. Is there anything that I can/should check out in specific when I go to see the cars?

Thank you very much in advance
 
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:13 AM
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Also I am considering a 2002 s type, 89k @ $3250.
s type looks better than x type but as you know its a rwd..
do you think I should consider it over x type..i really like the look...
i am a newbie , pls help me with ur suggestions
thanks
 
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:02 PM
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debargha, first off, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good information here and tons of people willing to help. But, we ask a small favor from you though. Please stop by the New Member Section and tell us a little bit about yourself. We pride ourselves in being a better car group. As part of this, we like to get to know a little bit about everyone and this also gives you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.

As for your question, there are a few things that I feel play into this decision. First off, on the 2004 X-Type, you will need to look in the driver's door jam at the build sticker that should be there. One of the things there is the build date. Keep this in mind. If the car is built in April 2004 or later, it is the revised version of the X-Type. Earlier than that, it has the original build style. Where this is going to play in is the earlier style had a viscous coupled transfer case, the later ones did not. What this means to you is that the earlier cars will always apply power to atleast 1 front wheel and 1 rear wheel. Where the later cars, that is not the case (more on this in a moment).

The other big thing that I think will make a difference is how you like to drive. Do you like to drive spirited or do you simply go with the flow of traffic. I ask this as the X-Type is not a sports car per se. Yes, it is classified as that, but the motor is not something that I would say makes for a fast car. The other thing to keep in mind is that the transfer cases in these cars are the drivetrains weak link. You drive the car hard, it may fail on you more often then you want it to. You drive sensibly, it will outlast the car. So, how do you want drive. The X-Type will cruise the highways at 80 mph all day long. But, you go light to light to keep up with a Mustang and it may be an expensive car. This is where considering the S-Type would be better.

Ok, back to the subject of the transfer case and the difference between the early and later styles. The earlier cars are fine without DSC (Dynamic Stability Control). The later cars pretty much must have it to be truely AWD. You can tell if the car has DSC or not simply by looking on the center console just below the gear shifter. If there is a black button there with a symbol that looks like a car loosing control, then the car has DSC. If you want to learn how DSC works, there are all sorts of posts here about its workings and what it does for you. In short, when the car thinks a wheel is spinning too fast, it applies the brakes to that wheel to slow it down and therefore transfers power to the slower wheels.

As for the X-Type over the S-Type, this is where you are having to ask how much luxury do you want. The S-Type is going to have a lot more nicities to it than the X-Type. Keep in mind that the X-Type is the introductory Jaguar. It was built around having some luxury, but nothing like what the bigger brothers have. But then the S-Type is only RWD and having AWD may be an important factor for you based on your weather. Each car has its pros and cons. Which things are more important to you.

As for major problems to look out for. With the X-Type, the big things are any drive train noises (normally the transfer case starting to go) and if you look on the A-pillars (around the windshield), if you see rust there, avoid the car like the plague. Should not be a problem on the year cars that you are looking at, but it may be there. In short, the rust here means there is major structural issues with the car and to repair the car will cost more than the car is worth. Any other problems are fairly easy to handle and we can help you out here. The question then becomes how much of a motor head you are to do it yourself or if you will be paying someone to do it for you.

Of the 3 cars that you list, for me, the S-Type would be my first choice (but then, I know how to make a RWD car handle in the snow). Next would be the X-Type with DSC in it (making the assumption that the 2004 is the later style X-Type).
 
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:12 PM
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Welcome to the forums. There is a lot of good information on here that would be invaluable to educate yourself on what to look for in your search. If you haven't, stop by the New Members Section and introduce yourself.

Probably the biggest thing is that sometime in 2004 the transfer case went from a viscous coupling design to an open differential. I'm not sure when that happened, but if you search on here you should be able to find out when it started. With the latter design what happens is when a slipping wheel is detected all the torque is applied there, which could render you almost helpless in the snow if you do not have DSC. To know if you have that look for a small button near the shifter that has an icon of what looks like a slipping car. If it has that you are good. In a snowy climate it is probably best to avoid a car that does not have that.

The other main difference is the steering wheel design changed in 2005. Nothing different, just a different look. I like the look of the latter version, but that is a personal decision.

By 2004 a lot of the early bugs had been worked out on the early cars. If they both were well taken care of I would think either one would be reliable. Quiz both owners to see if they regularly changed fluids (not just the engine oil, but the brake fluid, coolant, transmission, diffs and transfer case). Ask what, if any, problems they had while they owned the cars and why they are selling. Get a comfort level that they are being honest and upfront with you.

Vacuum leaks are common problems, but those are cheap and easy to address most of the time. Also check to see if the rear tires are canted in at the top. If so, the lower rear control arms need replacing. Not a real expensive thing to address, but very common to see.

Another thing is to be aware of what options each has, as common things you might take for granted, like heated seats, are not standard, so a less expensive car might be bare bones and one might be a bit more expensive because it might have things like navigation, a premium stereo and reverse parking sensors.
that
Maybe take an afternoon to surf on here to educate yourself. ANYTHING that is an issue with these cars probably has been discussed on here. I have had mine over 6.5vyears and have over 145K on it and it has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever owned. These cars can be very inexpensive to buy and no more expensive to own as many other cars. But you also have to keep in mind you are buying a 10-11 year old car and there will be things that might need attention.

Good luck with your search and let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 08:38 AM
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>Of the 3 cars that you list, for me, the S-Type would be my first choice

I would question that recommendation, some what...

That S-Type is most likely a pre-face life car and there were many changes made to the later S-Types that corrected problems in the earlier cars. It is also older and more complex than the X-Types. I would take care with that one.

If I'm wrong and it is a post face-lift than is could be good.
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Old 02-16-2015, 10:27 AM
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The viscous coupling was deleted in MY2004 at VIN D56272
Other technical changes for MY2004 update, may not be self-evident, however, significant modifications have been made to the body shell, door and underbody.
Additional changes to the Body area include:
• A bolt-on front-end that: provides a weight reduction; improves repairability and service access.
• A new front bumper to accommodate the bolt-on front-end and front parking aid (where applicable).
• A new trunk-lid finisher.
• A new stack-bracket mounted to the left-hand side of the trunk to accommodate the multimedia modules.
Changes to the Chassis area include:
• A new driveshaft (AWD vehicles only) with sliding spline and sealed CV joints.
Changes to the Powertrain area include:
• The redesign of the fuel system to meet USA Federal LEV 2 emissions requirements:
– New fuel tank.
– New carbon canister (NAS markets only).
– Deletion of the fuel rail ’schraeder’ valve.
– New filler pipe assembly and cap.
Changes to the Electrical area include:
• The battery junction box, which interfaces to the wiring harness via eight connectors instead of being hard-wired.
• Optional front parking aid.
• Minor modifications to the instrument cluster.
• Refinements to the Entertainment System which, where applicable includes the introduction of a remote power amplifier and
new speaker configurations.

Further changes introduced for MY2005 and included on my X Type purchased new in May 2005 are
Improved rear brake calipers (To cure the sticking handbrake problems)
Updated steering wheel with thumb wheel buttons
Organ pedal throttle to replace pendant type
Improved Passenger Restraint system
Introduced Lower Air Bag above driver's legs
As ever in car manufacture some of these features may have been introduced a little earlier in any particular car, but I've tried to list them as published by Jaguar.
Anyway, the list just gives you some extra things to consider when making your choice. As it happens, I'd go for the latest model!
 
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