Hello friends,

Lately the cars shifts feel like it wants to jump after every shift / downshift in low gears, I think 1-3. Noticed also putting the car in drive mode while standing with brakes pressed will make the car jump, but without knocks, just jerking forward.

Notes:

Less obvious when car temp is cold.

Full throttle or full brakes while at speed will make the symptoms seem to disappear, only gentle throttling brings the devil.

The fluid was replaced with Valvoline Maxllife ATF 20,000km ago.

After resetting the car for the night it will drive smoothly for like 40km and start making trouble again. Maybe coincidence, didnt try again.



Where should I start from? I read that worn engine / transmission mounts can lead to such problems. Anything else? Hope its not the box dying on me, I will be uber disappointed of this car, had it for 20,000km.


Thanks in advance,

David.

 

Still waiting for hints about this issue... Anyone?

 

Arm, the first thing that I would be checking is the fluid level. An abnormal fluid level and create some interesting monsters. After that, may not be a bad idea to do a fluid change if one has not been done recently (in the last year or so).

If the resetting of the computer causes things to get better, then you are most likely looking at a computer problem, not a tranny problem. I would try resetting the tranny computer again and see if things are repeatable.

Lets see what you have at this point and we can take it from there.

 

I agree with Thermo on this. It sounds as though the fluid level was set with cold oil, so the box behaves when cold but as it warms up the level rises too high and causes your problems. The level should be set as follows:

Make sure J-Gate shift selector is in the Park position (P). With the engine running and the foot brake applied, move the J-Gate shift selector through 'P-R-N-D-4-3-2' and back to the 'P' position to circulate the automatic transmission fluid until the temperature reaches 30 to 40°C (86 to 104°F).
When the automatic transmission fluid temperature reaches 35°C (95°F) check that the selector lever is in the 'P' position, raise the vehicle.

With the engine running, remove the automatic transmission fluid level tube plug. Remove and discard the level plug and sealing washer.

Make sure the automatic transmission fluid temperature does not exceed 40°C (104°F). If the automatic transmission fluid temperature does exceed 40°C (104°F) stop the automatic transmission fluid level check and allow the automatic transmission fluid to cool until the temperature reaches 30 to 40°C (86 to 104°F). Allow the automatic transmission fluid to come out of the automatic transmission fluid level tube until the overflow stops at a temperature of no more than 40°C (104°F).

If when the automatic transmission fluid level plug is first removed and automatic transmission fluid comes out of the automatic transmission fluid level tube, allow the automatic transmission fluid to come out of the automatic transmission fluid level tube until the overflow stops at a temperature of no more than 40°C (104°F).

Install the transmission fluid level plug. Install a new level plug and sealing washer. Tighten to 15 Nm.

 

When you check the level MAKE SURE you remove the CORRECT plug, if you loosen the wrong one you will loose reverse gear and empty tour wallet. There is a thread in this forum to show you which plug and where it is. Just a FYI. If you can't find the thread ASK.There is a section when you first open the forum with all kinds of info.

 

Since this is up, would somebody mind posting a working link or guide to this procedure?

 

If you look in the How To... sticky at the top of the X Type forum page, you'll find a link in the engine section called Draining the Auto Transmission, or something like that! Useful photos as well as description.

 

Thanks for assisting guys.

Noticed now that after restarting the car the problem goes away for few minutes and then comes back again. This is weird.

So fluid level or transmission control unit reset?

 

No data or settings are lost following battery disconnection. However, if the battery is disconnected with the ignition on or shortly after the ignition is switched off, an error code will be flagged (P1603) and stored by the TCM; TCM adaptations could be lost.

The complete transmission drive cycle should reset those adaptations as well as checking out the whole transmission.

1 Engine and transmission at normal operating temperature. Ignition OFF; ensure that SPORT mode is NOT selected.
2 With gear selector in P and the ignition ON. Check gearshift interlock by attempting to move selector without pressing the brake pedal. Verify P state illumination.
3 Press and hold the brake pedal. Move the gear selector to R. Verify R state illumination.
4 Set the parking brake. Press and hold the brake pedal. Attempt to start the engine. The engine should not start.
5 Move the gear selector to N. Verify N state illumination. Start the engine.
6 With the hand brake set and the brake pedal pressed, move the gear selector to the remaining positions in the J Gate (D, 4, 3, 2) for five (5) seconds each. Verify
the state illumination in each position.
7 Move the gear selector back to 4. Verify 4 state illumination.
8 Move the gear selector to D. Verify D state illumination.
9 Move the gear selector to N. Verify N state illumination.
10 Select R, release the brakes and drive the vehicle in Reverse for a short distance.
11 Stop the vehicle.
12 Select 2 and drive the vehicle up to 65 km/h (40 mph). Hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
13 Select 3 and hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
14 Select 4 and hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
15 Select D and accelerate to a minimum speed of 80 km/h (50 mph). Hold 80 – 129 km/h (50 – 80 mph) for a minimum of 1.7 kilometers (1 mile).
16 Stop the vehicle;
17 Scan for any fault codes.

 

Hi astromorg, I appreciate your help.

So basically if go through the procedure you mentioned I will reset the TCM? Should I disconnect the battery first to initiate the procedure?

 

This is either fluid level (low) or solenoids. Rarely a new fluid on an older car with varnish on the solenoids and clutches/bands will experience a sudden cleaning and reduce themselves (literally) in size so they are less thick (by like .0001) and then they will slip when it is cold; less so when it is warm.

 

Sorry to say it but I think you've got the same problem many of us have had. The reverse/high clutch drum is susceptible to cracking and when it's cold the fluid pressure is ok but as it warms up the pressure drops as it seeps out of the crack in the drum causing lots of problems/fault codes and slowly burning up the transmission in the process. It's a common problem with the Jatco transmission in our X-Types and the Mazda MPV. Some people have successfully fixed it without removing the transmission as the clutch pack is under the side cover next to the left front wheel.

 

Is there a thermometer you use to measure the temperature of transmission fluid in the fluid change process? Thanks.