when I got the car in march we put a new battery and a new air filter. I also changed the engine oil and put in fresh coolant. the original coolant tank had a leak and would leak all the coolant out in one trip. the engine is also not the original one. the original engine had blown head gaskets. we had to put a used engine in it. Did not have any issues except for a o2 sensor. It runs fine, just the issue when starting it.

 

Have you tried key play? Turn key so pump runs and builds pressure a couple times then try to start. To narrow down the issue?

 

You can smoke-test your intake vacuum with the engine hot, just make sure the fans are off. Turn off the A/C so it does'nt cycle the fan. Personally, I have been known to disconnect the fan connectors to perform this test, but if you do not monitor the engine temperature you can overheat it. Many vehicles have a separate cooling fan relay which can be temporarily removed to cancel the fan operation but the X-Type has its relays integrated into the fan temp controller.

 

ok guys, I am back with my findings. I checked out the spark plus on the first bank and they all looked good and the gap was good too. Now after that I set my eyes on the fuel pump driver module. I pulled up a wiring diagram and got to work, but then i found a used module for $30 and thought it cant hurt to plug it on and try it. I plugged the new module on and still the same problem. The service manual has some tests to help with diagnosing and when i got to pinpoint test d4, it asks to check the resistance between ground and pin 4 on the CA105 connector. now if the resistance is less than 5ohms its good, but i am getting like 6 to ohms. Now it says to repair the circuit between pin 4 and ground. Should i be looking for a broken ground wire somewhere? or the wire at pin 4?. On the diagram it shows that that black with green cable goes all the way up to the ecm.

 

If it were me I'd keep looking. When it comes to recommended ohm readings, especially those relating to confirming a good ground. one or two ohms isn't going to make that much of a difference. The probes from your meter can introduce that much error. a single ohm difference in resistance is practically meaningless. Now if you jiggle the wiring while taking your reading, and the resistance varies widely, then you have found something like a broken wire, or a loose connection, that can work perfectly then all of a sudden, not work, only to work again moments water. Intermittent electrical issues are perhaps the very worst of all to track down, with the exception of a bolted short to ground. In both cases everything is suspect.

 

thats what i found, the reading comes at 6 ohms and other times its like -1 or i even saw -10. that's what I don't understand here.

 

A negative ohm reading is an invalid measurement. Back in the day of analog meters, one had to beware of trying to measure ohms on a circuit that had power to it, as this would immediately peg the meter, blow the fuse, and/or smoke the meter all together. A -ohms reading indicates there is power there somehow. A broken ground connection may exhibit this reading, as voltages that are supposed to go to ground undetected, seek another path creating a measurable voltage across the test points. A bad ground wreaks indescribable havoc as stray voltages find paths back thru things like high beam filaments, running lights, or anything that provides a path to ground with less than near infinite resistance. Electricity will seek the path of least resistance, even if it has to go clear to the other end of the car to find it, and it WILL find it.
When I suspect a broken ground, I provide a ground jumper, and test with the jumper in place, to see if the readings change, or if the problem goes away. Divide and conquer.

 

here are the directions to this test which i am suspecting is the problem:
1.Turn the ignition switch to the CRANK position.
2.Measure the resistance between electrical connector CA105 pin 4 (BG) and ground.
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to D4
.
No
REPAIR the circuit between electrical connector CA105 pin 4 (BG) and GROUND. For additional information, refer to
wiring diagrams. CLEAR the DTC. TEST the system for normal operation.

How would I go about conducting this test? I think If i disconnect the connector at the fpdm and hook it to ground and take the connector off the ecm, look for that wire and do a ohm reading there we should have 5ohms or less right?

 

Somewhere in the manual before step 1, it should tell you which connector(s) to remove prior to testing.
But you are correct pretty much, they want you to isolate the wire to check for a draw or a leak.

 

Can someone tell me how to post a new thread

 

Go to the main page in the X-Type Forum and look on the upper left side of the page there is a button to start a new thread. Click on that and have at it.

 

Can anyone tell me how to flush my radiator on the 2004 x type I myself am about to use blue devil but before you do your supposed to flush the system multiple time

 

And I can't find the button to start a new thread

 

Choose the forum.
Then click on Post New Thread.

 

See the blue circled area.

 

Yes i see that but this is what mine looks lile

 

It looks like you're viewing on a smart phone. If so, 2 options, If Android = click the 3 horizontal dots in the right side of the "address bar" to bring down the menu, select "request desktop view". The other option is scroll completely to the bottom of the page and select "view full site". In either case, you then click (or hover over) forums, then select Jaguar models (modern), then X Type (X400).