My Dad owns a 2005 X-Type 3.0L all wheel drive. He wanted me to do some research.

When he's driving slow in 2nd gear... there is a noise that is coming from the transmission (he thinks). He also told me that when the outside temp. is above 100 deg. F... the noise goes away. He had a mechanic check under the car and there are no leaks from the transmission. Is there a dipstick for the tranny?

I will also do a tune-up on the car... replace spark plugs, and replace the O2 sensor. Is there anything else that I should do? I think the car has 110K miles on it. Sorry for the uncertainty... my Dad lives in Maine and I'm in PA so I don't have access to the car... I will go up to see him later this month to help him out.

Do you think resetting the computer would help? How do I reset the computer? I read that disconnecting the batter for 15 min. and touching the POS and NEG cables should do a "hard reset"... is that true? Sorry... I'm a noob when it comes to Jaguars.

Thank you all in advance for any help... I really want to figure out this 2nd gear noise... but I have a feeling that my Dad will need to take it to a mechanic... but I wanted to check the forum first... maybe someone had this issue.

Sincerely,
Max

 

Actually my Dad said that the noise is there when he's driving slow in second gear and the temperature on the outside thermometer is around 50-60 deg. When the outside is showing high (80 or higher) then the noise goes away. Also the 4 gear makes noise too. He said if he's accelerating then there is no noise... only when he's cruising slowly.

 

Max, without more specific information I think it will be really hard for anyone to chime in with a possible diagnosis. Nothing in your posts suggest anything specific to me. Is it an automatic or a manual transmission? Is it a vibration kind of noise or rotational that changes pitch with speed? Any other issues with the car? Are there any check engine lights on, and if so, can you post the codes here or do a search on here? Pretty much anything that can go wrong on these cars has been discussed on here through the years and there are a bunch of knowledgeable and helpful people. Just need some more to go by before someone can point in you in the right direction.

You might want to consider changing the fluids in the transmission, differentials and transfer case if they have never been done. Plenty of info on here on how to do that. Also, the IMT O rings, the PCV breather hose if it is not the ribbed one and also change the brake booster check valve. Maybe the upper and lower intake gaskets as well. Lots of info on that as well.

Just curious, why are you going to change the oxygen sensor(s)? Is there a code being thrown? There are 4 of them and two aren't particularly easy to get to.

I wish you luck and do not be afraid to ask or search on here if you run into issues.

 

Hi Alfadude, thanks for the info. It's automatic transmission. I will try to find out more when I go to see my Dad. He just told me some of this stuff over Skype so I won't know for sure until I'm in front of the car. I will be also replacing the front shock top mount. Hopefully that is not too difficult... I have a set of spring compressors so I hope they work. As far as the oxygen sensor, he told me the engine light is ON, I will try to get the code from Autozone, they have those error code readers.

Thanks,
Max
2005 X-Type Auto 3.0

 

Max: A few thoughts....

1) When changing the spark plugs, look for oil in the wells. This can cause misfires. If you see oil, remove the valve covers and replace the valve cover gaskets. Inspect the coil boots and clean off any oil with a little isopropyl alcohol, or replace coils with damaged boots. You'll find many thread on this topic.

2) After removing the upper intake manifold to access the firewall spark plugs, replace the O-ring seals under the IMT valves. This is a common source of vacuum leaks - you'll find many threads on this topic. You can change these anytime, but the lower IMT valve is a little easier to access with the upper intake off the engine.

3) When replacing the strut mounts, also replace the strut bearings. The strut mounts absorb shocks; strut bearings allow the entire strut to pivot to turn the front wheels. Both wear out after miles of potholes and sewer grates.

4) Replacing X-Types struts is not particularly difficult. You have spring compressors, so you sound familiar with the process. AutoZone will loan spring compressors, if that's easier than bringing yours to Maine.

One step can be very difficult or very easy - you won't know until you work on your Dad's car. You'll need to lower the front subframe slightly, one side at a time, to unload the strut springs before you remove & reinstall them. 4 bolts hold the subframe to the unibody. The 2 front bolts are behind the bumper, where they're protected from the elements, and easy to loosen. But the 2 rear bolts are exposed to the elements, and can rust to a captive bolt, which unfortunately is difficult to reach inside the unibody. You won't know if this step is difficult or easy until you attempt to loosen these 2 rear bolts on your dad's X-Type.

Fortunately, PaulC732 provides an ingenious solution, that you may want to prepare for:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-free-113243/

Good luck, and ask plenty of questions. You'll find a lot of help here.

 

Thanks dwclapp. I appreciate your help. My Dad told me that a shop replaced his one strut but they didn't replace the bearing... So my Dad has the bearing and wanted me to replace it. He told me that the bolts should be broken-free since they worked on it recently. Looks like I need two o-rings for IMT valves, correct? If they look good and are pliable, and not damaged, should I replace them anyway? My Dad told me he has some gaskets (valve cover, I think) but I'll have to call him to find out for sure.

 

Max: It's a shame the shop didn't replace the strut bearing when they replaced the strut. Anytime you remove a strut, it's minimal effort and $'s to install a new strut mount and strut bearing. But the good news is the shop recently loosened the rear subframe bolt for you.

Did they really place only one strut? That would be unusual - they wear out in pairs. Yes, the curbside strut wears out sooner (more potholes and sewer grates on that side of the road) but it's rare to change only one strut. Hopefully your dad will know if both struts were replaced. If both were replaced, then both subframe rear bolts were recently loosened.

Regarding the IMT O-rings, yes, you'll need 2. Here's an eBay listing 2 for $20 w/ S&H. If check with a local repair shop specializing in European cars. I found 2 for ~$10 at a local shop.
O Ring Gasket for Jaguar IMT Intake Manifold Air Valve PK of 2 Ships Fast | eBay
If the old O-rings are yellow, definitely replace both with new green O-rings - they green O-rings are thicker and less prone to vacuum leaks than thinner yellow O-rings. Even if the old O-rings are green and pliable, I'd suggest replacing them, since you've already made the trip to Maine, removed the IMT valve, and have the new O-rings in your hand.

While your at it, inspect the bottom of the PCV hose for cracks. It's another common source of vacuum leaks, particularly on older, smooth PCV hoses. Your dad's 2005 likely has the newer, ribbed PCV hose, which is less prone to vacuum leaks. Also, consider replacing the PCV valve if it's old. They're only $12-15, and an old PCV valve can allow oil and excess air into the intake manifold.

Ask away - people here will surely give you good advise.