This vehicle is in California and cannot pass smog. The. Codes say the O2 sensors have not closed. I replaced the 2 downstream 02 sensors, tuned the car and spent thousand dollars chasing a fix. I’ve been given various written instructions on how to drive the car (there is no “check engine light” lit on the console).

i have followed those various instructions to the letter, but the 02 sensors will not close. I am in Orange County California. Is there a great independent Jag dealership who can fix? The dealer gave me some instructions which also didn’t work. Also, all instructions require driving fast, coasting and then accelerating. I need to find an abandoned airfield to perform these protocols.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Firstly, what are the OBD code(s)

 

My apologies, I mis-spoke. I am not a mechanic. I should have said 02 monitors will not close. There are NO codes but until the O2 sensor monitors close, no smog outfit will pass it. Thanks.

 

Have you checked for OBD codes? How do you know you have none? If you didn't have a code, why change the downstream sensors on both catalytic converters? How do you know the code was downstream? How do you know you changed the correct sensors? Dragging information out is tiresome. A history, problems, corrective action, etc. will get you WAY better help and guidance.

 

Thank you for the generic reply raising rhetorical mechanical questions. The issue remains: can anyone recommend an independent Jaguar dealer in south County who can address the repeated O2 monitor issues? Obviously I relied upon several mechanics who attempted repairs. I am fairly certain there are no codes (having watched the tech this last week who did not charge a cent). But I do need someone with Mode 6 Diagnosis expertise to inspect, diagnose, advise and repair if necessary. Can anyone recommend a REAL smog expert for a 2007 X type Jaguar in south Orange County, California. If you cannot make a recommendation, please do not reply. Many thanks.

 

Just an f.y.I. = Mode "$06" (note the correction) can be done by some higher end user friendly, consumer used OBD readers. The best Jag one is iCarsoft LRII. But you go ahead and throw your little hissy fit. This forum is dedicated to attempting to help members to circumvent taking it to shops if possible. There are times we do tell members to go, but prefer self help.

 

Although I can't recommend a REAL smog expert, I am still replying in an attempt to help you and in a way you can do yourself.

I am guessing that what you were told is that your system is showing P1000, which means all the systems have not completed the needed drive cycle. All have to be completed for it to turn to P1111. If, in fact, what is holding you back is the O2 system, follow the instructions on page 4 of the attached document. If other systems haven't been completed you would have to make sure those have been completed. Read pages 3-6. Should be easy for you to do yourself. If it is something else, we have no way of knowing what your issue is with the limited info, but at least doing this is free, easy and would save you the hassle of taking your car in.

Good luck!

 

I'd also recommend picking up a cheap OBDII code reader, the $10 bluetooth dongles that work with your phone available on eBay/amazon work great. That way you'll know whether you're showing P1000 or P1111.

 

Thanks Alfadude. It finally showed the P-1000 code and that's a start. Thanks again for the manual.

 

You're welcome. Are you saying since the beginning of November until now you were not getting P1000 showing? If so, before now were you getting P1111 or else were you getting some other code numbers? Or you haven't really driven the car since you last posted?

 

gkabekost, here is one more thing to check. Check fuse F36 in he engine bay fuse box. This is one of the fuses that powers the ECU. This fuse is what stores the memory in the ECU. So, if this fuse is blown, it will wipe the memory every time you turn off the car, which will trigger a P1000 code every time you start the car and even though you may finish the drive cycle and get a P1111 code (all checks passed), as soon as you turn off the car, the P1111 goes away and you are left with the P1000 on start up.

 

Thermo and Alfadude, many thanks!

I am a risk manager, not a mechanic. I also take this opportunity to apologize to Dell Gailey and the moderator, as I was a little tart in my 11/02/2019 post due to extreme stress.

The reason I was stressed is that I lost my house in an explosive fire. It’s all gone, house and contents. I have to be careful here what I say due to ongoing litigation. But it was a total loss due to the use by a third party of industrial grade butycellosolve/ether (often times used by mechanics as cleansers, so I have learned).

I was attempting to solve those problems I could as fast as I could. Those which could not be resolved with a “quick fix” were left “as is” for later.

That is the back story with this Jaguar 2007 X Type with 172,000 miles. I just took it to a shop again and had the engine block and head gasket checked. The mechanic denied either were cracked and said the compression was “really good at 12” and there was no problem with cylinder 5 or the coils. I again admit I don’t know the significance of the number “12”.

Alfadude, the vehicle has been driven, but only on country roads and once on the freeway. I have used the “drive cycle” protocol but that P1000 code remains, which prevents me from having it smogged.

Most recently, the check engine and high temperature lights came on. I was real careful in keeping coolant in it until I got it to the shop. In pulling over several times to fill the overflow tank, I noted one of the hoses with a pin hole leak.

At the shop, the mechanic noted the additional codes P1316 (misfire) and P0356 (relating to the coils). He admitted those codes could have been triggered by the lack of coolant? He also told me the ignition coils were not defective?

Alfadude, I insisted he look up all the other ECU codes which have not completed their cycle (I will get those cycles tonight). However, I noted there were quite a few other than P1000. So your manual will come in very handy and I will begin to go thru all other drive cycle protocols.

I have to admit the initial P1000 drive cycle protocol to get it to change to P1111 was done at 3:00 a.m. on a lonely stretch of freeway. This was a 10/10 “pucker factor” drive cycle ride.

Thermo, I will now check that F-36 fuse. Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I am “living” in the “Wet Dawg Motel” and buying clothes as Thrift Shops. But the family is safe and we are eating.

But please allow me to recommend two (2) things to EVERYONE: (1). be very careful with any solvent with contains butycellosolve/ether. The vapor is extremely explosive and unstable; and (2) have a fire drill.

Your life may depend upon it. Regrettably, not everyone in the explosive vapor and resultant back flash fire lived.

Happy New Year’s and best regards. Thanks again and BE SAFE.

2007 X Type Jaguar 6 cyclinder
172,000 miles
Second owner per Carfax
Car has been maintained
Car runs well even when Check Engine lights comes on