Hi guys,
I posted this as a solution to a previous thread that I started on a limp mode problem I had, it was driving me nuts since last November as I had three different mechanics giving me ever-worsening symptoms, causes and estimates! I decided to post as a new thread as it was lost as a reply and I'm hoping that the advice will be seen and used by many more members on this post.

I was ready to give up, and realised that I had nothing to lose by attempting a repair myself, which I did and was 100% successful and I really want to share the info with you guys. I know that this isn't anything new, that the Mondeo crowd have been doing this for years but I haven't found any similar posts here on Jaguarforums.com and it could really save us from shelling out hundreds for new turbo actuators and turbos.

Below is the text from my original post, I would be happy to answer any questions or queries or help in any way that I can.

I was on the points of getting rid of my beloved x type and buying a Toyota corolla or such. Since I started this thread, I had brought the car to an injector specialist who assured me that three injectors needed rebuilding in order to clear the flashing glow plug problem, (after I first posted about the problem here it had become a daily issue). this cost me a total of 400€. The car ran ok for less than 24 hours and all of a sudden the glow plug started winking at me again, I brought it back to him and he said that the fuel pressure sensor was at fault, he sourced a second hand one for me for 40€ and I drove off again, apprehensively happy to have finally resolved the situation. on the way home the light started flashing again and all power was lost. At my wits end I phoned him once again and was told to come back in the next day to plug it in to the computer. This time he informed me that it was the Turbo at fault. needless to say I was irate, 440€ spent and the problem was still there, getting progressively worse.
I limped home and started looking up Peugeots and Toyotas on the net while quietly rollicking everything Jaguarish. I then decided to check out a possible turbo replacement or repair and came across the ford forums.


The code that was being thrown out was the P132B, which led me to believe that it was a sticking turbo. I read that this can be solved by dismantling the turbo and cleaning it with Mr Muscle oven cleaner. I also read that there are two codes normally associated with the turbo fault, P132A and P132B being the actuator and turbo itself respectively. I decided to attack the turbo yesterday, first removing the actuator and to my surprise, the turbo arm was loose and smooth as it should be (a dirty turbo will offer resistance to movement, hence the error code) I decided to go for broke and dismantle the actuator housing, just six small clips holding it together, and what I found was this:







Old broken solder joints


The connections (top middle of the circuit board) had been previously repaired and apart from being shoddily done, the solder appeared to have loosened and blackened over time. I cleaned and resoldered the joints as can be seen here:




After resoldering


I then refitted everything and drove for miles with no recurrence of the limp mode.
I was ecstatic, I have been limping around the country since the start of November, have spent over 400€ on repairs (admitted, the injectors did need the rebuild) and I have had constant headaches as to what might be wrong with the Jag, all it took in the end was 30 minutes and a soldering iron and the problem is solved.



Its also important to note that the P132B code isn't always associated with the actual turbo itself, it has been widely published on the forums that P132A is a problem with the actuator and that P132B is the turbo mechanism, sticking vanes, etc. in my case, the P132B was an actuator issue and the turbo mechanism itself was as smooth and moved as it would on a new car.

I hope that the solution helps as many of you as possible as this is basically the same repair that is advertised all over the internet for anything up to £200.

 

BarryO' Hi' I've been haunted by a similar problem, going into limp mode when accelerated hard in 1st, then recently more frequently, It was pointed out that, after disconnecting the actuator arm I found that moving it manually, it felt lumpy, I was advised I needed a new turbo and possibly an actuator, in subsequent enquiries I found out about a treatment called 'Revive Turbo Cleaner', I used this today, followed the instructions (easy) limp mode and engine management lights had gone off, actuator to turbo arm has a nice and smooth action, as suggested by Revive took it for a run felt like a different car (for the better), put some diesel in, started the engine up and it went back into limp mode, there is no movement at the actuator arm at all when switching on and off or when revving the engine, I disconnected the arm again and it's really free turbo end a but no movement at the actuator arm with ignition on or off or when the engine is revved! I'm thinking that the problem's in here! Before I remove and open it, can you tell me if, besides the mother board, are there any mechanical parts in the actuator box? any kind of cogs/gear wheels that might have jammed? Sorry, but I couldn't explain this in a shorter way, any help appreciated. Cheers Dave Maines. d.maines46@gmail.com

 

Dave, I'm so sorry, I didn't see your post until now. Never got a notification or anything! I know its probably too late now, you most definitely have the issue resolved, but if not and to help others, there are moving parts in there but nothing that will spring out and/or be impossible or difficult to put back. Basically both halves of the box have their own self contained bits and pieces and nothing should fall out or come unstuck. the part of the box that I (stupidly) didn't photograph, holds the motor for the actuator movement, it connects to the circuitry via the 4 clustered pins that can be seen on my pic on the top of the box. I think, from my own research, that if the turbo was stuck, it might have overheated the circuitry and caused a solder joint to break. I'd bet money on it being a problem similar to mine, check all the joints, others have had similar problems and its not always the same solder joint is loose. Also, given that the problem isn't constant, its an intermittent fault, it does point to it being a loose connection.


Id also like to say that since doing my home repair, haven't had any issues or recurrence whatsoever of the limp mode or flashing glow plug!

 

Hi can you please tell me how long it takes to remove the actuator ?
and also how can i check if its working when all connections seems to be fine.
turbo doesn't move smoothly and is very dirty inside.any suggestions?

 

Hi
Had similar problem ,copy and paste "Stranded in limp mode". The actuator is surprisingly easy to get off /dismantle. Seems on start up the actuator must complete a cycle otherwise flags a fault. If the actuator fails whilst running it flags a fault. since looking at mine which I described I've had no problems ,1000+ miles and hundreds of switch offs and ons.
Hope you clear your problem.
Regards

 

My car was presenting the same faults, when I removed the actuator I found the turbo veins moved smoothly, so I opened the actuator expecting to see broken of dry solder joints but I found all the connections to be good. I gave the motor and PCB a good squirt of WD40 and so far the cars been good, and I've covered about 10k miles since.
Its worth a try for anyone else having similar problems .

 

Hi

This is brilliant - many, many thanks. Turns out the same two wires had broken in my actuator, so I soldered in new (more robust) ones and limp mode has not reappeared... the solder took a bit of an effort to get it to wet the contacts, which I also cleaned down to bare copper.

Just for completeness, my symptoms were that the car started okay (no error lights) from cold, but after it warmed up the "glow plug" light started flashing, and if I left it for a while the EMS light came on constantly (i.e. not flashing). Oh, and of course, limp mode (but the way I drive it was hard to tell unless pulling up a long uphill drag - cruise control wouldn't keep a constant speed). Search for this on "talkFord" for more detailed info -
162803-limp-mode-and-p2263-error/

In response to Spiro Kar (just over a year after the question...), it takes about 5-10 minutes to remove the actuator (one 1/4" e-clip - careful you don't drop it and it doesn't ping away into the depths of your car - I held a sandwich bag over it while removing to stop it flying away), 3x10mm hex bolts and the multiplug. No need to take anything else off, but I removed the negative lead from the battery as well "just in case".

 

Hi. I’m having basically the same problem. The differences being mine is a 2002 X-Type with the 2.5L V6 engine(non turbo) that runs on premium gas (not diesel) here in Florida. I’ve been to 4 shops. Wasted money on repairs that have not taken the car out of limp mode for more than a day.
Besides the repairs a couple felt it was not worth finding the problem. I’m at the end of my rope trying to find the solution.
Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

 

@Doug Kokis, you need to start a new thread with problem, history of repairs, any old and new OBD codes for the forum to give you a good guide on what to do. Your post is WAY too generic to give any advice.

OBVIOUSLY you do not have these codes as they are diesel specific codes.