Sounds like someone left the cable detatched from the latch assembly...

 

The door stopped working and stayed shut...the door was shut and hasn't opened since...it used to work but not now??? I hate these kinds of problems...

 

Yeah, I would hate not having the ability to USE A MAJOR COMPONENT OF THE CAR! I understand your frustration, but I would cut the door off and buy a new door. I personally don't give a ****, I would saw that **** out. Then, when I get to the hinges, I'd have space to unbolt them and then I'd mount the new door up!

 

Genius I've never thought about that before...oh yeah I probably want the door to match the color of the rest of car! I generally like the body panels to match!

 

If you're serious about doing this, I would just be careful with the saw and I'm sure you can cut the door without getting to the interior panel. How much do you think a door for the explorer would cost. I know that for a 2002 G20 the door cost about $250, but I'm sure that it would cost quite a bit more at the dealer. I'd look to see if maybe a junk yard has one.

 

I was being extremely sarcastic! I'd rather give the dealership some money to tell me whats wrong with it...sure it wouldnt' cost $250 bucks...

 

Who knows. If they tried to rip me a new ******* I would seriously do that. Then again I know it's extremely crazy.

 

Well I don't paint, don't know a good painter and would rather not hack into it and than snag some wires! I'll get it fixed somehow or someway! Just figured rudy could help but oh well!

 

Alright - now I feel bad. Asked somebody different, and he said the lock lever on that dooris probablystuck in between positions and jamming the latch. You should be able to fiddle with it enough to get it un-stuck. If not, it is possible to take the seat bottom out and take the trim panel off the inside so you can get at the latch and see what's REALLY going on. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the help Rudy...i'll try it next time I get a chance...I'll have to try taking the panel off and check her out the seat flips up without taking it apart so the rear upright of the rear seat can lay down so I'll check that out...I'll keep you up to date...

 

Man Aquill...........I felt your sarcasm across the pond.......lol
Either Biggie didn't and took you serious or he played out your sarcasm..................jury's out on that one though...lol

JC

 

Yeah no doubt...pretty sure he was serious about that though...i'd do it if I could find the same door in color and trim and all...

 

I was serious, but whatever. I could easily do it on my nissan because cars the same color are easily found. I wouldn't last a week without being able to open my door.

 

Not being able to open your car dooris a bad thing, I think we're all agreed on that one.
You still no further forward Aquill?

JC

 

No not any further no time! I'm working on my in laws house right now...turning their bricked fireplace into a cultured stone centerpiece of the living room! In the process adding their 46" lcd I found for them! Man its turning out to be more work than I imagined but I don't chince on anything... By the way its the rear door so its not as big of a deal on the escape...but it is irritating!

 

So what is the status with the header installation on your car?

Could you give us some details about what ford injectors and regulator you are using? Are they from a mustang, contour, taurus, etc..... Did your check engine light come on after installing the headers?

If you have a problem with the check engine light due to eliminating the cats before the 2nd O2 sensors you can use an 02 simulator to get the light to go away. I had the same problem on my Stealth R/T twin turbo when I removed the precats and the O2 simulator got rid of the problem.

Here's a link:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...?idProduct=769

 

I should add that I am very interested in all your current modifications because I am currently in the middle of building the spare 3.0L X-type engine in my garage. As of right now I have found a very reputable company that is designing me a set of pistons that will drop the compression from 10.5:1 to 8.5:1, which if far better suited to forced induction. The pistons will be forged aluminum and the sides will be anti-friction coated and the tops will be heat treated. I think that with the lower compression the car will be able to safely run a twin turbocharger system capable of over 400 hp. I'll be happy at the 325-350 hp mark because I don't want to be replacing my transmission every 2 months.

Any info that you would be willing to share about your modifications would be very helpful. I do have some pretty detailed questions about your fuel system setup if you would be willing to answer them. From what I understand there is no fuel return line from the fuel rails in the X-type. I believe that fuel pressure is maintained to an ECU mandated pressure by rasing/lowering the voltage of the fuel pump until the desired pressure is achieved.

The easiest way to deal with adding more power to a car with minimal fuel system modifications is to add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and bump up the base fuel pressure so more fuel is injected during each injector pulse. Although a rough fix it usually works until more expensive electronic fuel controllers are fitted. I do not think this will work on the X because the ECU will simply compensate for the added pressure by dropping the voltage to the fuel pump until it reaches the factory pre-set pressure. Using larger injectors is fine when at 50%+ throttle, but anything under 50% throttle the car will be running very rich and fould the plugs/02 sensors faster, not to mention probably throw a check engine light.

My friend is an electrical engineer and I am having him come by with some of his equipment and we are going to see if there is a way to tap into and modify the ECU signal that designates the fuel pressure in the lines. If there is a way to intercept this signal and use some sort of electronic switch or perhaps boost-actuated switch fuel pressure can be adjusted based on boost or another variable, such as throttle position.

Please feel free to input anything you may have learned in your experiences modifying the X. I applaud you for your current headway in what seems to be the poorly explored world of Jaguar X-type performance tuning. There is no reason these cars cannot compete with the newer model luxury cars that are coming out, like the new BMW 335xi, twin turbo V6. When my car is complete I will rebadge it with Type R logos as I feel it will be a good representation of what Jaguar should have produced- an X-Type R.

 

Hey Tokay, when I saw this resurrected, I got very happy in thinking that RacerX had come back from the dead. Unfortunately he's been gone from the dead. I do know that every thinkable mod that can be done to an X, he's done it. Arden ECU, headers, intake, performance clutch, and simple crap like that. Even though I doubt he ever actually reached 300HP, he did get quite close, because just the ECU gives you about 40hp, and then ad 15(optimistically) from the headers, and 5 from the intake. The clutch will help put that power down efficiently and I say he were around 290hp and well put to the wheels at about 240ish. About the check engine light, he doesn't really care about it, because he drives with it lit all day anyways.

As for Twin Turboing the Jag...I can't wait to see pictures of progression. I think that it's a brilliant idea and I'd like to know a bit more on the $$$ it's taking from your wallet for the pistons. Good luck and hope you enjoy the forum. Welcome by the way!

 

Hey tokay, welcome to the forum bud.........Although I see you're new I'm sure I have seen you around the uk site.
Usually with very impressive and informative posts too, so its all good.
Do a write up of your mods as and when completed tokay...........Cheers

Jim

 

bigdreams05,

Ok, well I can guarantee you that he did not get the Arden ECU upgrade. Arden does not just sell a chip for this procedure. They require that the car be shipped to them and it costs over $9,000.00! They tune it differently depending on what mods are on the car.

If he messed with the ECU it was most likely a piggy-back system which would not do much justice. Totally re-mapping the ECU (what Arden does) is very expensive and very risky if you do not get the right people to do it.

The headers will make the X louder but won't give much more power as the stock headers are more than sufficient. I guarantee this guy would not get over 260hp with his mods.