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ABS Every Time Al- Of-The-Time

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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 11:06 AM
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Default ABS Every Time Al- Of-The-Time

I have a 2005 X-Type Sport with DSC. The ABS kicks in every time I slow down and stop, but no codes are thrown. Had a mechanic run a diagnostic on the ABS module which showed all of the wheel sensors with the same readings, so I'm assuming that it probably isn't a dirty wheel sensor. Leaning toward the ABS module, but don't like throwing parts at a problem without being able to identify it. Anyone else run into the same problem?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 01:39 PM
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Default ABS Every Time All-of-the-Time NEVER MIND

After some additional research I found that this is not an uncommon problem, and probably involves a wheel sensor which drops out at low speeds (2-3 mph) and fools the ABS module into thinking that that wheel is skidding. Apparently it doesn't trigger dash lights or throw a code. Probably time to clean them all anyway.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 03:29 AM
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I had this exact problem about 3 years ago. I found out the reluctor ring on the left rear was rust jacking out of round and touching the sensor at one point. At very low speed the reluctor ring "twangs" the sensor and the ABS module "thinks" the wheel is skidding. No ABS light and scanner shows good. If you remove the sensor you can look in the hole and you will probably see a shiny spot on the reluctor ring, where it has been touching. I put a couple of 8 mm washers under the sensor to space it off from the ring. The sensor seems very tolerant of the gap. Worked perfectly since. This is an easy fix and you do not have to raise the car or even take the wheel off. I would be interested to know how you get on. Obviously this is not the technically correct fix, which would be to change the reluctor ring. These are not expensive, but a lot of work.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 10:52 AM
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Thanks Dave,

Yours is the second post I've seen with that solution which is one I would consider if I knew which wheel sensor was the culprit. I saw a video on YouTube where the problem was similar, but diagnosed with a different result. Apparently the magnet in the wheel sensor had deteriorated somewhat and the signal from that wheel would drop out at low speeds. The ABS module thought that that wheel was skidding and energized the system. I had previously replaced the right rear sensor which my scanner showed was faulty which took care of the DTC message.
You mentioned that the sensors are accessible without jacking the car up and removing the wheels. I'm considering cleaning all of the sensors and checking the reluctor rings for rust and/or damage but am finding it hard to motivate myself due to the amount of physical work involved (I'm a healthy 78, but those wheels are heavy! I wouldn't mind jacking the car up if I didn't have to remove and re-install the wheels. Can both the front and rear sensors be accessed without removing the wheels? Would certainly help my motivation.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 02:56 AM
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IMHO The chance of it being one of the rears is very high. You will need a small mirror to look in the hole if you don't take the wheel off. You will probably see witness marks on the end of the sensor if it has contacted the ring.
The front reluctors are inside the bearing.
 

Last edited by DAVESPACEBAT; Apr 22, 2020 at 03:01 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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Thanks Dave.
I was able to pull and check three of the wheel sensors yesterday. The remaining wheel (right rear) is the one with the wheel sensor I replaced, but I'm going to check it anyway. I'm also going to compare the strength of the magnet on that wheel with the left rear sensor. Not scientific, but it's worth a shot since there are no codes being thrown.

As I mentioned previously post, I'm 78 years old, and my mind tends to writes checks that my body can't cash; wheel removal and replacement being high on the list. My solution isn't rocket science, but it saves my back. Bought the cheapest furniture dolly I could find at Harbor Freight. To remove the wheel I loosen the lug nuts, jack up the car, put a jack stand in place, remove the lug nuts and roll the dolly under the wheel. Then I let the wheel down until it just touches the dolly, pull the wheel off and roll it out of the way. If I don't rotate the wheel hub or the tire, they line up almost perfectly when it comes to re-mount the wheel (you may have to play with the jacking height a bit),but the wheel should slip right on. Works for me in any case.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2020 | 10:30 AM
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Sorry to be reviving this post, but need the benefit of someone's experience. The left rear reluctor ring is bad and will have to be replaced (1/8-inch washer didn't help). I was considering replacing the entire axle, but aftermarket reluctor rings are available and can (supposedly) be replaced with the axle remaining on the car. You can also purchase and change the outer CV joint (comes with the reluctor already installed on it). Has anyone done either of these projects this, and how difficult and involved a job are they (aside from the usual rusty bolts)?

Thanks,
 
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