My car started having the ABS/DSC fault, I took it in and had the wheel speed sensors cleaned, problem went away for quite awhile. Fast forward to now, ABS/DSC fault are showing up again. I thought the wheel speed sensors were dirty again so I took it in to the shop and figured they'd just clean the sensors and we'd be good to go, a whole month goes by and my car is still sitting in their lot, and hasn't even been touched. I kept calling and finally got them to look at the car, and they called me back saying they think it is the ABS Module, and that they'd have to replace the part $850 for a used replacement $1500 for a new replacement. I inquired about sending the module out for repair and referenced the forums here. The part that is confusing me now is that I asked for them to send me the part number so I could look online myself either for a place to repair it or a cheaper source for a replacement. They sent me the image of the part they were talking about (see attached) but if I'm correct this looks like it is not the ABS Module but the ABS pump. Shouldn't the ABS Module be the likely culprit? Going through the forums here everything points to the module. I'm not sure they are to familiar with jags so that may play a part, but do they need to have the whole assembly repaired or just the module? They are telling me it would take 5 hours labour on top of it. I was just interested in getting some input from you guys here.

 

Collect your vehicle from this facility immediately. It is obvious from their responses, and 'diagnostic' practices, that they have no knowledge of these vehicles and their quirks. In the end they will not be able to fix your car, and will cause additional problems along the way.

 

++1

Do yourself a favour and get an OBD code reader that will work with your phone - less than $10 on Amazon, and there's good software out there for little money for both Android and iPhone.

When I had this earlier in the year, the codes thrown told me exactly where to look. In my case it was just dirty sensors; that may not be your issue but I'd certainly be looking for the simple stuff before my wallet.

If you post the codes (the actual codes, not any english translation) here you'll be sure to get some great guidance.

HTH,
Mike

 

Agreed to all above...also the wheel sensors are very easy to clean with the wheels on, just takes a 10mm wrench, an old toothbrush and some soapy water. Give it a try.

 

Thank you all for your input, I'm going to get a code reader, and will post back the codes showing up!

 

I Have to agree, they were great when I had my BMW (most of their work is on BMW's) but this has gotten out of hand, my car's been there over a month and they made no progress, they were also supposed to replace a bulb behind the air con buttons on the center console, they told me it would take about 1-2 hours to do and would be about $150-200 I even bought the bulb online before I took it in so they wouldn't be waiting "for parts to get in".

Is their price about right to Replace the bulb (including labour) at 150$-200?

 

You can do this yourself. See and .

On your 2006, the console bezel is easier to remove...it is just 4 screws.

 

Might be talking rubbish here but ...............


I don't think there's a separate "module" and "pump". As far as Jaguar is concerned, the whole unit (electronics and mechanicals) are ONE part :





If the PCB has a wiring issue, it can be separated from the rest of the unit and repaired, but I don't think there are two parts with two different part numbers.

 

The control unit can be replaced separately from the hydraulic module, which has the pump mounted. I did this myself on my 97.

It displayed a left front sensor error which remained after swapping the sensors and harness. I purchased a used unit with matching numbers and transferred the control unit to my module.

rhemler probably needs to have the pump connections in the control unit soldered, but unless he has a reader that will confirm the C1095 error that's just guesswork.

Which brings me to a question: what software do you have on your phone that reads C codes?

 

I use Torque on my old Sammy Galaxy S2 & an ELM327 bluetooth adaptor. Can't remember the code: C1135?, but it pointed to an issue with the rear RHS sensor.

I was surprised at how little gunge there was on the sensors, but it's not reoccurred.

Mike

 

Before jumping in and messing with the more expensive part, check the wiring harnesses leaving the sensors at each wheel (obviously, a code reader would tell you where to start). Reportedly, the harness connection to the sensor can become unreliable with age and wheel movement. Some have located used replacement harnesses, others have re-soldered them at the sensor end (this has been reported as no-longer-available from Jaguar). If in doubt, see if you can swap the harnesses left-to-right and have the code follow the bad harness. Try the same with the sensor itself to eliminate that possibility as well.

In addition, it would not be bad to check the "stupid" stuff, too. Tire pressure, wheel bearings, air in the caliper, etc. Also, the reluctor rings that the sensors pair with need to be solid with the hubs. A simple check with a screwdriver can be done once the sensor is off.

Just my thoughts.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I have been scouring everything I can find on the ABS/TCCM issue that plagues our cars. I did the R&R and re-solder on the MODULE, and I can assure you that there are at least TWO SEPARATE components to the unit you have pictured. The pump is the round unit that forces the fluid into or out of the solenoid chambers.....the black one with the white part numbers on it.

The ABS MODULE is a totally separate part of the entire unit. It is the entire black plastic part that is attached by 4 long reverse torx head bolts to the big solenoid unit that controls the fluid flow (the aluminum part in the middle of the total unit). It has a separate part number on it's case. ALL of the modules I have seen pictured on the forums have been made in the Philippines, and have the part number totally UNLIKE the alleged "Jaguar" part number that some posters say is the "correct" one. I have not seen ANY, or read of anyone having a ABS module with a "Jaguar" part number on it.

It is the ABS CONTROL MODULE CIRCUIT BOARD and the soldering of the two pins from the ABS PUMP that causes 90% of the Christmas tree light-up on our instrument clusters. That ABS MODULE needs to be separated, opened up, and the two power pins re-soldered. The ABS MODULE can be replaced at any time.....hoping to get a matching unit that won't also screw with the reading of all the other modules.

There are dozens and dozens of threads by owners who either had their modules replaced, "rebuilt", or did the re-soldering themselves. It seems to be about a 50% success rate from all the threads I have read. Many owners just give up and either get rid of their cars or drive them with the lights flashing at them. Part of the problem is that the system throws codes like the dreaded P1637 that is so elusive and persistent it makes getting the car "smogged" impossible. I would like to hear from more of the owners who "solved" the problem with their first attempt by doing their own RE-SOLDER, and either never had the issue again, or had it re-occur over time or miles driven.

 

Did my three.

Two had this problem when I bought the cars, one developed the ABS issue shortly after I bought it. All fixed with no problem to date.

I have had other ABS problems (cables) which appear to be often confused for the ABS module problem before reading the OBD codes (or for those who do not have code readers or bad repair shops...).

It's my impression that the 'success rate' around here for this particular problem is quite high, not as low as 50%.

 

No question they are separate.
Jaguar even list the module and the hydraulic unit as two separate part numbers.

 

I have NEVER had a failure to repair the C1095.

I have a few C1155 modules that are FAILED UNITS! The C1155 CANNOT be cleared and follow the module for the fault when I KNOW the car is NOT AT FAULT.
(HARD FAULT)

I discard these modules.

I have posted this before and will post this again.

The numbers on the ABS module case is NOT the Jaguar part number.
The cross reference numbers are documented from my collection of modules. (I have several dozen from collecting faulty modules when I worked at the dealer)

The numbers at the end of each entry is the CASE number printed. The actual Jaguar number is the JLM number

 

Thank you.

Did you have any of these "common" issues of lights, codes, or the stupid "incorrect part installed" warnings after your re-solder fixes?

 

Very interesting and understandable. Do you know why virtually all of us who have run into problems seem to have the modules made in PI, and have the other part number(s)?

 

No.

But I think a number of issues are being mixed up in the existing threads. Some appear to be the wrong module installed (either by people purchasing the wrong one, or repair/recondition people sending the wrong one, like MadHatter's problem), some appear to be other ABS problems (like wiring issues), and some are probably the fault described by Bob (motorcarman) above.

 

How do these "C" codes you mention relate to the P1637 code so many of us are plagued with?

 

P1637 means the module is not communicating with the CAN bus (the module sends a code to the network every 200 milliseconds, if it is not sent for a short period of around a second, trouble results, including your dash warnings). Could be intermittent, could be persistent.

Could be other things, but this is a pretty typical sign that you need to resolder the intermittently disconnecting solder joints in the module.

If someone has just 'fixed' your module or you have just purchased a reconditioned one, this is a good sign you should send it back.