First, I have to admit I don't understand what the CAN bus is,or how to access it for any kind of testing. But as to the re-soldering of the module, my brother did the soldering as I watched. He is a retired pro who has been doing this kind of work for over 50 years. I can solder,but I took it to him because he not only has the correct materials, he has the kind of giant magnifier and lights that reveal every tiny issue. He also re-soldered the blade connectors in the bigger multi-pin connector after he saw flaws in one side of those. His soldering appears to be perfect, but anything is possible.

I do not want to remove that damn module again, but I probably should disconnect/reconnect both the connectors. The big one slid on like butter, and my pics of it before reinstall show no bent pins. The pump wire connection was a bitch to get off, and I could have messed up those "too short" wires at the connector I suppose. But it is in there very tight.

The "incorrect part installed" warning is just stupid. Even if this module was replaced before I got the car, I have been driving it since 2008 with no issues until I stopped driving it very often. Drained battery? Yes, but new one in January and I don't think it ran down since then. It always tests at 12.4 or more after sitting. I do use a 2A trickle charger very often now.

At this point I hope maybe....maybe...it is an ECU issue. Maybe.

 

The CAN bus is the wiring between the ABS/ECM(engine)/TCM(transmission)/IPK(Instrument panel) (and the OBDII port). It also goes through the shift module, but that does nothing active. Yours is a very early version of this, so it's fairly simple. Digital data is passed between all of the modules (like ABS wheel speeds to the ECM, etc) on the bus.

The system is designed to recognize problems with bits of the car and report these codes via an OBDII device/query.

So, it is possible that this is being caused by the ECM in your model year, but it's an odd problem that the ECM wouldn't recognize the message coming from the ABS but still recognizes the messages coming from the TCM and IPK.

On the soldering, did he remove the old solder or just add new solder? But I'm with him, there were multiple flaws in the solder job on every module I've looked at, especially on the connector. They may not have been causing problems (yet), but they looked quite awful for a professional job.

But yes, it is possible that there is a problem with the connectors. I'd thoroughly clean them with connector cleaner.

 

All good questions I will have to pursue. But thinking of the re-installation of the module, I don't remember any specific GROUND wire or strap that might have needed reconnecting. Is there such an animal, or does the grounding come from the two wire lead between the module and the ABS pump??

 

The two wiring connections are all there are.

 

The ABS module does NOT need to be removed if you are using another module to test the system.

I have installed another compatible module to plug into the CAN bus by stuffing the replacement behind the head lamp and plugging it into the car harness.
The replacement module does not have to be physically mated to the pump/valve block assy to make the network 'HAPPY' electronically.

Unfortunately the 1997 XK ABS module is a 'one-off' MY so you are limited to JLM20129 or JLM20130 (5 pipe or 6 pipe) (6 valve or 9 valve) so testing with a 'good-used' is not always possible unless you have access to them.

I used to repair the modules and then find a compatible car to read and clear the DTCs to ensure that the repair went well.
I just substituted the repaired module stuffed behind the headlamp and then attached the connectors to communicate with the module with WDS/IDS.

Once the DTCs were cleared and the modules confirmed a GOOD, I reconnected the original car module.

When I worked at the dealer, the 1998 to 2002 Xk or XJ cars were always around to mate up the correct car.
The 1997 XK8 was the hardest to find. There was not always that MY in the shop for repair so it was a waiting game for one to finally show up to test the module.

 

:O Thanks. Your use of an "extended" module for testing is ingenious. But to my original question, is the C1095 an extension of the P1637 DTC that gives us more information about the fault?

 

They are separate, and from different sources.

C1095 originates from the ABS module, and is specific: 'Pump motor failure' (nearly always the soldering on the ABS module pcb)
P1637 is thrown by the ECM complaining about the ABS module (or CAN connectivity to it)

 

After the hard reset and letting it sit for a day with the battery disconnected I started her up and VOILA! No more CEL! So, I drove it around our backwoods and small highways for at least 50 miles....all still with NO speedo or ODO, and the CEL stayed gone. The other flashing warnings stayed on, and the ABS light never went off. I parked in my driveway and shut it off. Started it up and the CEL and code were back. Tried multiple restarts and it persists. I ALSO NOW HAVE A BEEPING ALARM OF SOME KIND THAT STOPS AFTER i REMOVE THE KEY. WTH IS THAT??? I disconnected the battery again to check later. Battery read 12.86 V before initial restart.

 

I have a 1998 XK8 4.0 and had the C1095 code. When I pulled the ABS unit discovered that the 2 pin power cord to the pump had disintegrated and the internal module pins needed re-soldered. So far no more problems with the ABS!.

 

OH! Did you have to repair or replace the connector itself, or just do the re-solder on the CB? I think I mauled my 2 pin connector trying to get it off when I did the R&R of my module.

 

I had to replace the pump with a used one because the power pin cord had shorted out and destroyed the pump. There seems to be a strange rubber costing on the power cord that is very flimsy.

 

I agree that the pump wiring is stupidly short and unmanageable. My connector was really really hard to get off....had to use a big pair of needle nose pliers and wedge it off. I was afraid I had damaged the wiring, but when we did a continuity check from the end of the connector back to the pump it read approx. 1.5 ohms, or correct for no current flowing through. The end at the circuit board showed OK. So, I guess I didn't damage the actual wiring or the plug.

 

What does it mean when the P1637 code persists, but (according to the Jagshop and their autologic scan tool) there is no "C" code at all. No C1095, even though the ABS module seems to be the center of the problem.

 

My module has been saved by Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again.

 

That lasted about a month. Christmas tree again, CEL on. Bought a whole replacement pump/module assembly.

 

I think the confusion about the pump/module assembly comes from the JTIS pages on how the ABS brake system works and its components. According to them, the module/pump/valve block is sold as one unit (no wonder it costs $3000), and "are non-serviceable". BS! We know the truth about it. They call the assembly the "BCM"......brake control modulator.

 

I finally got back to this obstinate Jag and it's never-ending ABS problems. Yesterday my son and I installed the replacement ABS pump/module as a unit. I found one with an EXACT part number match, and it had already been rebuilt. The pump to module wire was chafed a bit, but looked ok....much better than my original one.

It was a bitch to do the R&R!

So...all hooked up and TOTAL FAILURE. Same lights, same idiotic "incorrect part installed" or whatever it always says.

My son checked the codes. At first it said "0" codes, then the 1637 came back. He cleared the codes and the 1637 came back. So, I'm right back where I started.

What can I try before giving the car away or ripping everything out and starting over??