Here's my latest weird one for consideration by the learned members of the Forum. For a couple of weeks I've been getting random ABS/TRAC faults that go away after a hard battery reset, not to be seen again for a week or more before returning. I have a nearly new battery that is on a NOCO Genius 2 Amp trickle charger whenever the car sits for more than a day. So far I've pulled and cleaned all the wheel sensors and reluctor rings, ohmed out all the sensors, both at the ABS module plug and the sensor-to-harness plugs, and got consistent readings throughout. I've tugged and tweaked all the sensor cables trying to highlight any internal cracks/breaks that are making intermittent contact but no joy there either. Seems likely that the ABS module might be the culprit but from what I've read on here if the solder joint failure is the issue it doesn't temporarily 'heal' itself with a hard reset.....or does it? Before I rip into the module or get a reman unit I though I'd ask you folk for some input. Any ideas?

 

Why not just interrogate the module and see what DCT it is logging as the fault???
Quick scan with a dealer lever reader and you can save hours of throwing parts at it.

 

Embarrassed to admit no OBD scanner in my tool kit. This Jag is my first foray into 'modern' car repair after decades of 'flat tappet-points and condenser' wrenching. Looks like I'll have to pony up for a suitable gadget!

 

Yes, even a cheap ELM327 clone will be a useful addition to your toolkit, although it most likely won't help you with this particular issue.

When my ABS module started its tantrums, I'd get an ABS fault at the system check on start up. It would initially go away for a while after a wiggle of the pump power connector. I think C1095 DTC is a pointer to the connector issue.

 

I did the solder fix on mine some time ago. A reset certainly did seem to fix the issue until the next time it would appear so you may well be having the same problem.
l went into my module directly over the joint area with a very carefully weilded hole saw of no more than 20mm and after the fix sealed up with a rubber grommet. The module does need to come out though.

 

If I recall I had the same issue, I cleaned the wheel speed sensors on all four wheels (used 400 grit sand paper, very light sanding). And the issue went away.

 

my random ABS/TRAC fault occurs about 10% of the time when I first turn the ignition key after the car has sat overnight or longer. As soon as the key is turned farther to crank the engine the fault light goes away and does not
come back after the engine starts. To me that sounds like low voltage, however the car is always on a Delran Battery Tender + when parked overnight or longer. No fault codes are listed.

it’s a little aggravating, but something I can still live with for as long as I have the car.


Z

PS Already have done (about a year ago) the module solder fix on the incoming positive and negative wire / circuit board junction. That fix eliminated the constant ABS/TRAC fault message and accompanying OBD-2 fault.

 

Have you had the ABS/TCCM fail light come back? How about that dreaded P1637 DTC?

 

I’ve had no fault codes, and no serous ABS / Traction Control warning issues. Very infrequently I’ll get a momentary flash of the ABS light as I’m turning the ignition key for the first start of the day. But very infrequently. Maybe once a month on a car that’s used multiple times daily.

Of course, before the module soldering the light would come on and stay on. Since then, not a
problem except as noted above.

Overall, the car is showing its age very gracefully. (Better than I am, but the mileage and years on my carcass is substantially greater

Z

 

Congratulations! You must be one of the blessed ones. So far, my R&R and re-solder has only resulted in more and new lights flashing. So, I'll back up and start over when I have time. Glad yours is working again.

 

I’m doubly fortunate as I bent a dozen pins when latching the connector carelessly. They all straightened out OK. But I held my breath waiting for them to snap off during the straightening.


Z

 

HOLY COW! How far over did they bend? Did the connector still close up? :O

 

I’ve tried to drink that incident off of my mind, so it’s a little fuzzy. As best as I can recall. The latch didn’t get near closing because of the pins jamming up the works. They were bent over maybe 90 degrees. To this day I’m shocked that I could straighten them all vertical with just using a skinny screwdriver to force them back into position one at a time. There were at least a dozen bent up .

Z

 

You dodged a bullet for sure. My module has been saved by Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again.