I agree however not all the dogs are sleeping. I still am getting an alternator light on occasion. Measuring currents with the light on shows more current going into the battery than coming out and the voltage at the battery looks appropriate so the charge circuit seems to be working as it should even though the alternator light is on. While I am ok driving it like that I would like to get to the bottom of this and not have the anoyance of looking at a bogus red light.

The only clue I think I have is that the battery voltage indicated in the test mode is somewhat less than the actual voltage at the battery. Actual difference is around 0.4 - 0.7 volts. Does anyone have any insight on this? Can anyone tell me where and how the computer measures the voltage it displays?

I measured the voltage drop on the line from the battery to the fuse block at 20mv while pulling 68 or so amps so that seems to rule out that wire as contributing.