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Airbag code 33: DIY repair?

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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Default Airbag code 33: DIY repair?

I have just started getting this code on my 04 x-type 3.0. I have the data sheet describing the possible causes. I cannot find info for the Driver Pretensioner, connectors, etc. If it is something stupid,like a bad/loose connection, I can deal with that. If it something more serious I am condemned to go to the dealer. Are there photos or descriptions of the places I should look at for chasing down the real cause.

TIA

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 09:18 AM
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Stephen, I moved your post here, due to posting in wrong section.

I hope you will find your answer here shortly.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 10:05 AM
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The correct way to check the circuit is with WDS/IDS etc.
Using DATALOGGER you can check the continuity of the pretensioner through the SRS module. (DO NOT USE A MULTIMETER TO CHECK RESISTANCE ACROSS AIRBAGS AND/OR PRETENSIONERS)
I have a few 2.1 or 2.2 OHM resistors in various SRS connector plugs from discarded harnesses and I substitute the resistor for the suspected faulty component to see if it is the component itself or a harness/connection.

The only safe way to check that circuit would be to UNPLUG the pretensioner and check continuity from the SRS module to that end connector. If the circuit is OK then it might be the component itself.

A multimeter MIGHT have enough power to set off the pretensioner or airbag if it is attached across the trigger wires.

good luck

bob gauff
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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It may be that I am in over my head here. I can poke around inside cars (I started on my ‘66 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint Veloce), but not this one. Where is the SRS module??

I just noticed that the airbag light starts flashing 33 even before the seat belt is engaged. Does that indicate that the problem is not in the seatbelt latching contacts (someone suggested cleaning the contacts)? or does the code remain in memory until cleared?

Before I go to the dealer, is there anything that I can do - without any WDS/IDS type equipment - that might narrow the source of the problem and, maybe, be amenable to DIY?

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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The DTC is NOT for the seatbelt latch but for the PRETENSIONER. It is a pyrotechnic device that is triggered by the SRS module. It pulls the belt TIGHT in a collision. Latching the belt will not affect the fault.

I would guess that the seat harness might be faulty. It moves as the seat moves and the wires could be damaged.

The SRS module is just forward of the gearbox selector mechanism.

bob gauff
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 04:32 AM
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Bob,

Reading through the thread makes me think this is not one for the DIY mechanic and should be left to you Pro's.

Where Dealer level test equipment is essential and there's a serious risk of triggering pretensioners and/or airbags, the result could be anything from high cost component replacement to personal injury.

Is this a fair comment or am I being a wimp?

Graham
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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You can eliminate the wiring/harness faults leaving only the airbags/pretensioners themselves with ordinary tools but it is easier with the proper diagnostic scan tool.

If the device is disconnected and the wires are checked, then the fault must be the device or SRS module.

bob gauff
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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I am looking elsewhere - dealer?- to get this fixed. Does anyone have an idea what the cost for parts and labor would be, assuming that the pretensioner is faulty/damaged?

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 07:04 AM
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Default New info: Airbag code 33: DIY repair?

The airbag light flashing code 33 is no longer on - at least for now. My wife, who is shorter than I and who moves the seat up close to the steering wheel was claiming that sometimes the light did not come on when she drove. I never witnessed this. Then, yesterday, twice, I drove the car and the light did not flash 33.

During some of my research I saw comments on a bad connector, (bad contact) issue that caused intermittent codes and that correcting (soldering, actually) the contact corrected the problem.

Can anyone comment on this and offer some direction? There are several connectors under the seat (assuming that is where the culprit is) and I do not know which to look at let alone how to dismantle the animal.

Otherwise, I have an appointment to take the car to the dealer on Wed AM.

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 07:40 AM
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That has all the symptoms of a bad contact.

Here's the section from the JTIS covering the pretensioner harness:

JTIS - 2004 X Type Safety Belt & Pretensioner.pdf

Do you also need info on removing the front seats?

Graham
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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Yes, Yes, Yes

I tried finding something on my own and was not terribly successful.

Thank you!

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by stephen11962
Yes, Yes, Yes

I tried finding something on my own and was not terribly successful.

Thank you!

Stephen
Stephen,

File size is too big for forum attachment. I've put it on my MediaFire account and you can download it from this link:

Free Cloud Storage - MediaFire

It has removal / refit procedures and drawings of all the components under the seat.

Graham
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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O M G

Thank you!

What a resource.

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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OOPS

Maybe spoke too soon.

I can see the diagrams of the seats but there is no "It has removal / refit procedures..." info. I mean the diagrams are useful in themselves and will go a long way leading me out of ignorance.

Is there something else I am missing and are there are sequences of procedure that will make things easier and keep me out of trouble?

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:36 AM
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Stephen,

Yes - I meant to merge this with the one you've downloaded from MediaFire:

JTIS - 2004 X Type Seat Removal & Refit.pdf

There's enough warnings in it to keep you not just safe but terrified!

Graham
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:48 AM
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Cool!

Now to work!

Thanks

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 03:00 PM
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Well, I found the problem and now I have others:

The 2004 x-type that I have has the seat pretensioner of a different configuration than shown in "2004 X-Type-Seating-501-10" That diagram shows the pretensioner held onto the seat via a torx screw from inside the seat. Mine has the torx screw on the outside of the seat. I do not know if that causes a real difference except in getting a correct replacement which I will need because: The two wires connecting to what I assume is the activator (not the buckle verification) are no longer connected to the activator. I assume one was broken but touching the contact that would loose contact depending on seat position. I probably broke the other in trying to get the seat out. (As per the instructions I took out the torx before removing the seat. But the pretensioner, ie buckle, is attached only to the seat. With the buckle loose, it can go in a different direction than the seat and stress the wires, but who cares now.) But I assume that this other wire was already weakened. I broke it I buy it.

The piston(?) carries this information:

TYP 95002
BAM-PT1-0479
Kunden-Nr: 1X43-F612009-AELEG
TRW# 33015999
Prod# B28.11.03Z00713343

Does anyone know if this is a valid part description? Does anyone have a source other than the dealer?

Again
Stephen
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 06:22 PM
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Stephen,

There's four different seat buckles listed dependent on VIN:

Jaguar X Type - Seat Belt Buckle.pdf

Are the broken wires at the buckle or at the electrical connector?

Graham
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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The vin is:...D86948. So I guess it is the first one listed "to VIN (J32040)".

But I am a little confused by the drawing - not enough detail. RH is the passenger side, yes? So, mine would be the LH.

There are two pairs of wires to the buckle assembly. The pair that is broken is not the pair that detects whether the belt is buckled or not. It is the pair that triggers the tensioning just before a crash. The wires are broken just at the top of the "dome." To be clear, both pairs are well attached at the connectors. The problem is within the unit itself, clear? It is a peculiar place for something to fail.

Under different circumstances I might try and solder them back on, but I suspect that heat from soldering might lead to a big, unpleasant surprise.

Unless someone with more experience here tells me that soldering them back is safe to do. I could do that and save time and money.

Stephen
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:56 AM
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Stephen,

When describing component locations, LH and RH are always as if you're looking forwards from the rear of the vehicle.

Check your forum PM's.

Graham
 
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