I'm looking to upgrade the alternator on my Jag (2003 X-type, 3.0L) due to installing an upgraded stereo/amp. The amp I am looking at is going to be pulling about 70 amps all by itself. So, getting an alternator that can handle more power than the factory 120 amp unit is going to be needed. Unfortunately, everything I can find simply states that it is part number 1529, that is it. I am used to say Ford that labels their alternators 1G, 2G, 3G, ..... Does Jag use this same "coding", or what is the style of alternator I need to be looking at. I am looking to upgrade to say a 150 or 175 amp unit. If I can find a good deal on a 200 amp unit, then I will probably use that.

Thanks.

 

70 amps??? Man you sure??? That is HUGE! A house cooking range on runs on 50 amps.

 

JagV6, yes, it is going to be pulling 70 amps under full load. It will be pulling 730 W RMS (1400 peak) from 5 channels (2x85, 2x70, and 1x420 W RMS). I don't see me using that power all the time, but when I want it, I WANT IT!!!! I really don't want to have to buy a used alternator and then take it to a shop to have them fiddle with it for some time. I am hoping that it is a generic base alternator and then I can get it upgraded or find one that is already upgraded.

So, any information on the case style or other "important" information is needed.

As for running at 70 amps for the amp, but only 50 amps for a house range, that is the difference between 12 VDC and 208 VAC. Remember power is voltage times current. So, in the case of a house range, 208 x 50 is 10,040 watts of electrical power where the amplifier will be 14 times 70, or 980 watts. The difference in wattage for the sound output and the power input is what will be lost in the form of heat.

 

thermo i know its 5 years later lol... but what about adding a second battery instead.. would that solve problems?

 

Kashaf, adding a second battery only helps if you plan on running the stereo with the car off. With the motor running, everything should be powered off of the alternator. If you are ducking off the battery, this is where you will see the lights flickering and the battery light coming on.

 

i guess if you are constantly running everything at full power including headlights, heater/ac, sound system, seat heaters, inverter the only thing that's going to get ruined is the alternator since that is the limiting factor only producing 120 Amps at max.

Simple calculations 120Amp x 12V = 1440 watts total at max output. So how do you set up a system safely that requires twice or three times as much power at full use without risking over running the alternator. Is the only way upgrading the alternator to a higher amperage?

Also what about charging and discharging rates of the battery itself. Does it charge quicker than it discharges? or are the rates same?

 

kashaf, with the higher power systems, you need to either get an alternator that will output more power (they can make them output up to about 300 amps now) or you have to set up a system where you are running multiple alternators and they all work in conjunction with each other.

As for battery charging/discharging rates, the rate is a function of how depleted the battery is. IN theory, power going in or out is going to happen at about the same rate for a given voltage difference. There are slight differences, but overall, it is minimal in the big scope of things.