My X-type was running great, I drove it to a store that was out of town. I parked
Shut it off, go do my shopping. Come out maybe a hour later and it does nothing.
No crank, tcm light on, abs light, temp gauge lights red, check engine light on as well.
I run for codes I have speed sensor code, evap, and the generic OBD II code, thats it. Had it towed
Home, pulled ECM to check for moisture, bone dry, but I go ahead and seal it pretty good and reinstall
It. Something, no crank, same lights on dash. I was having a ground qire issue several weeks ago,
I replaced the negative terminal and the wires and it was fixed, it was kinda giving me the same
Lights on dash I believe and no crank, could this possibly be the positive terminal &/or wires following suite?
Or do I need to pull the TCM check for moisture as well? I am lost and beyond frustrated honestly.
I appreciate any and all help.

 

A remarkable co-incidence if it's not related. Check the negative grounds are still tight and inspect the positive to starter solenoid cable for condition and tight connection.





After that if it persists, I'd suspect battery or alternator.

Graham

 

So I shouldn't harp on the TCM at this point then? When I got the car, November 2020, the older gentleman had replaced the alternator,
But with a 100 Amp not 120 Amp so I replaced the Alternator right after Christmas. I bought a new battery when this issue
Started at the store several days ago, same outcome, no crank, etc. So I put the battery I had back in it. I will chase sown the positive to starter solenoid and give it a good look, check tightness. I may just go ahead and replace the terminal and wires as I did with negative so I can if nothing else
Eliminate that possibility. I will be back in the garage within a hour or so to check your recommendations. Thanks

 

tWally, just because you have a new battery, do not rule it out. Batteries are a touchy item. One good jar and it can shift internally and lead to lots of issues. If you have a multimeter, I can give you a few checks just to see if the battery is possibly the issue. Like was said by Graham, odds are your issue is one of your battery wires, but the battery is a possibility too. I would start with these components before the TCM and other items.

 

I don't disagree with that. I do have a multimeter and will definitely do the checks you recommend.

 

TWally, lets start with a simple check of making sure that the battery is at 12.6 VDC. Measure this voltage on the battery posts, not on the terminals. If not at 12.6 VDC, put the battery on a charger for atleast a few hours. Probably best to simply leave it on till the charger drops to 0 amps being inputted. If at 12.6 VDC, continue.

Now, with the battery known to be at 100% charge (based on voltage), put the multimeter on the battery posts (not the terminals) as someone else attempts to start the car. Note the voltage on the battery as the car is being started. Does the voltage remain at 12.4+ VDC? If so, then the electronics are not commanding the starter to engage (further troubleshooting is needed). Does the voltage drop below 11.0 VDC? If so, then odds are, you have a bad cell in the battery and this is causing the starter to not get enough power to roll the engine. Replace the battery. Whatever the voltage is, note it and post it here.

At this point, we are down to pretty much 1 of 2 components being bad. What you are going to do now is move the multimeter leads to any metal spot on the engine (preferably the head or engine block or one of the brackets bolted straight to them) and to the larger terminal on the starter. Again, attempt to start the car. Is the voltage here within 0.5 VDC of what you recorded earlier? If yes, then you starter is bad and needs replaced. If no, then one of your battery terminals is bad. This is where you can put your hands on the battery terminals as someone holds the key in the START position and after about 5 seconds of holding it there, one of the battery terminals should be starting to get warm. That is your problem wire.

 

Ok, I am waiting on a buddy to get off work and come over to give me a hand with the voltage tests, as I am
Home alone at the moment. But I have been able to get it started, it starts now without hesitation, repeatedly, BUT
this is what my dash is showing and these are the codes I'm getting. Not sure if this helps you or not, it doesn't me as
I am completely new to working on these Jags and its a bit of a learning curve compared to the American made vehicles
I'm accustomed to wrenching on.

 

TWally, based on the pic of the instrument cluster, I would have to believe that your problem is a failed instrument cluster. This would also explain the lack of start. The X-Types are known for a connector on the instrument cluster developing broken solder joints, leading to random issues. A test that you can try is to turn the car on, get the instrument cluster lit up and then thump just above the instrument cluster with your hand. If the indications change, tada, broken solder joints.

 

Well as I stated it is starting with no problem whatsoever, over & over again. Just keeps lighting my instrument panel up
Like a fully lit Christmas tree 🎄 🤷‍♂️

 

I had an unusual failure giving those symptoms. Check if the stuff that should work when the key is in the run position is working. Wipers, cigarette lighter, PRND indicator lights etc. If that stuff isn't working, let me know, and I will go into more detail.

 

Run as in not started, correct?

 

Jaguar speak is position I, II and III. In US, accessory, run and start is common. So, check to see what's getting power in position II or run.

 

+1

Lack of odometer numbers indicates loss of communication with ECM.

Graham