Hi,

I’m looking for some help/advice on my 2.0 L Diesel X-type (2006) that has a problem with the brakes.

The front and back pads and disks were worn so, having hurt my hand playing sport, I took it to a local garage (not a jag dealer) to have them changed rather than do them myself. The garage did this plus replaced a rear hose and the brake fluid. Driving it home I felt the brakes were dragging so I took it for a short drive and they started to bind on badly (the van driver behind me was not amused from his hand gestures!).

Took it back to the garage the next day; they reckoned it was the master cylinder so they replaced it but it didn’t fix it. Looking at some posts on the forum it looked more likely to be the brake servo/booster. They agreed and replaced the booster, not charging me for the labour (they seemed to accept some responsibility for the problem which I thought was good of them).

Driving it around for a while after picking it up on Saturday the brakes bound on again; worse than before, so I dropped it off at the garage again just before they closed. Before handing it over I had a quick look around the engine bay and I think the brake reservoir was over filled. I thought about his on the walk home and wondered if this could be the cause. The problem starts after I’ve applied the brakes a few times heating up the callipers and hence fluid. If there isn’t air at the top to compress/escape then when the fluid expands with heat it hasn’t got anywhere to go so will pressurise the system.

Would appreciate anyone’s thoughts on this, or what else the problem could be/experience with this fault.

Jim

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-84009/page2/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2006-a-247859/

 

Hi Dell,

Thanks very much for the links, they look a likely cause. I'll ask the garage if they can adjust the length of the rod from the servo/booster.

Do you know if it's just a "trial and error" adjustment?

Kind regards

Jim

 

Post #18

 

Thanks Dell,

I'd missed the "3 to 4 turns"; I'll tell the garage tomorrow.

Kind regards

Jim

 

I went to the garage this morning. They told me they had already adjusted the servo/booster rod travel before they gave it back to me.

Given its all four wheels binding after a a mile or so I'm not sure what else it could be.

Would appreciate any thoughts.

Jim.

 

I had similar problems (3.0 Petrol). When trying to adjust the rod I noticed the rod could catch in the bore before bottoming out. I carefully refit the master cylinder while my wife pressed the pedal a bit to ensure the rod was properly positioned. That improved things by 90%. Final fix was new flexible lines all around. Instant performance improvement and 5 MPG better fuel economy. HTH, Dave

 

I know this is 99% of the time the fix. Was discussed by member Brutal who is an old time Jag tech. One guy a few years ago argued incessantly that it was not going to fix the problem. Went on for quite some time back and forth refusing the advice and finally adjusted the rod, and damned if it didn't fix all 4 wheels binding. Weird how that works. I appreciate that it seems counterintuitive as I too have never experienced changing brakes causing this particular oddity on any other of the many, many cars I've owned, but X's are known for this "hairball" hiccup.

 

Hi Dave, Dell,

Thanks for the information above.

The garage assures me they have already done the rod adjustment on the booster. I guess I'll have to wait and see if they come up with a fix.

Kind regards

Jim

 

I had the same problem after a corroded brake pipe split and I lost all the brake fluid on my 05 x type estate. I replaced the corroded brake pipe and bled up the brakes. Took it for a test run and found the brakes binding, getting worse the further I drove.
After I returned home, I put the car up on stands to try and resolve the issue. However, the car had been stood an hour or so by this time, and surprise surprise, all the wheels turned freely.
Ok, so I started the engine, and little by little, the brakes were being applied, without me touching the brake pedal , to the point where the wheels were locked.
If I stopped the engine, pressed the brake pedal a couple of times get order I the wheels were free to turn again.
Luckily for me, I have a doner vehicle. I firstly changed the master cylinder to no avail. Secondly I tried adjusting actuator rod. Still no avail. Lastly I changed the servo unit. Great news, problem solved.
I did a fair amount of research and THINK that the problem was two fold, caused by over extension of the brake pedal ( touching the carpet ). It damaged the servo unit, and flipped the seals in the master cylinder.
Have you changed both the servo and master cylinder, it is not clear from your post.
Good luck, and Hope this helps.
I now only ever depress the brake pedal around 2/3 of its travel distance when bleeding the brakes.

 

Hi Iffsam,

Thanks very much for your input/advice. The garage replaced the Master Cylinder (MC) first and then the booster, and also adjusted the rod from the booster to the MC.

Kind regards

Jim

 

Hi Dell, Dave and Iffsam,

Eventually got my car back. The garage adjusted the rod again and, although the brakes feel a little spongey, they don't seem to be binding anymore. So probably another one to add to the "rod adjust fix" list, I'm a bit wary that it may return so only doing short journeys at the moment.

There was a leak into the passenger side footwell when I washed the car but the windscreen scuttle? board wasn't fitted back well, I've re-seated it hoping that was the problem.

Thanks again for all your help and advice,

Jim

 

Hi All,

My brakes seemed OK having used the car for short (<10 mile) journeys for around 80 miles since the above post when I thought the brake binding issue was fixed. I haven't used my car for the past 4 days. I drove it today for about 3 miles and the brakes seemed very hard, engaging after a very short pedal travel. When I got back the discs were extremely hot although I didn't notice any significant drag while driving.

When I was steering around roundabouts (i.e. 270 degree turns) there was a strange whirring noise from one of the front wheels. I'm not sure if it's connected to the brake issue but I didn't have this before.

Has anyone experienced this problem returning after a relatively short while? Could the whirring noise be related to the brakes getting warm?

I'm taking it back to the garage tomorrow but would appreciate any thoughts/advice.

Jim

 

Looks like you have replaced one rear hose. Do the other flex hoses look OK? Replacing all the hoses fixed my sticky brake issues. I don't know why, but it did the trick. Good luck!

 

Hi Dave,

Thanks for your thoughts. The garage did inspect the hoses, told me only one needed replacing and the others looked OK. I suppose the hoses could be degraded internally thus weakened and may expand a little under pressure.

Could it have been the re-bleeding (after the pipe replacement) that fixed it rather than the pipe replacement itself?

I haven't heard back from the garage today; they probably haven't had chance to investigate it yet.

I'm not sure what the whirring noise would be but maybe a result of the discs overheating the bearings or maybe the disks have distorted.

Kind regards

Jim

 

So here is a bit of a lengthy post but read through it to "Jaguar's" finding of the push rod.

https://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/73...xtype-jag.html

 

I was thinking that in my case the hoses could have collapsed restricting the flow when the brake pedal is released, causing binding. I have no idea if that's a real failure mode BTW. As you point out - this could be coincidental, and the "real fix" might have been re-bleeding the system. Who knows - its complicated! Regarding whirring and bearings - no idea there. I doubt if a bit of binding could cause temperature problems - its high temp grease and robust bearings. Warped discs are often accompanied by regular pulsing at the pedal when the brake is applied. The warped rotor(s) cause the pads to move in and out. Good luck!

-Dave

 

Hi Dave and Dell,

Thanks very much for your thoughts and information.

The pushrod adjustment seemed to have fixed it 2 weeks ago; I can't think what would have changed to have made it re-occur. The brakes being hard after a very short push on the pedal makes me think there is hydraulic pressure retained in the system and (or because) the clearance between the pushrod and master cylinder piston has reduced. What made it change during use is a concern given it could happen again if they backed the rod off more to try and fix it. Or possibly worse it could go back to how it was two weeks ago and increase the clearance too much. Maybe the return spring in the booster (assuming it has one) has weakened and the rod has moved closer to the master cylinder. Or some debris from the brake fluid has got into the master cylinder preventing it returning fully. Maybe I should ask them to flush the fluid out and refill/blead the system again.

I'm still waiting for the garage to complete its investigation; they have talked to Jaguar specialists and looked at on-line for help.

Kind regards

Jim

 

Hi All,

The garage stripped the brake system down and adjusted the booster rod again. The brake engagement point seems very high compared to how it was originally but, so far, after 250 miles it has been OK. Fingers crossed it will continue.

Thanks again for all your help and advice.

Kind regards

Jim

 

Hi all,

I think I jinxed the car posting the last update. I've been driving it now for 4 weeks (250 miles of short journeys) with the engagement point high but no extremely hot disks after driving and no noticeable drag. Today however the engagement point for the brakes seemed even higher (maybe 1/2 inch travel) and I felt it was not rolling forward when I stopped with my foot off the brake pedal (as if I was still applying the brakes lightly). When I checked the disks they were extremely hot again. Called the garage and they had no mechanics free so I'll have to call them back after Christmas. I can't think what may be shifting to make the brakes tick on unless it is the return spring in the booster, springs in the master cylinder. Hope they can find something.

Kind regards

Jim