Just replaced the front rotors and pads with new Duralast Gold parts, and now I have scraping at every speed without applying the brakes...

I did not lube the slide pins as they are sealed, but they did move freely when I inspected the calipers. I pushed the pistons in using a simple caliper tool. Possible stuck caliper pistons/bad seals?

I did note that the inner pads were worn almost flat and the inner rotor was glazed badly upon removal...

 

So, just to be on the safe side, I ordered semi-loaded front calipers from rockauto.com. Peace of mind = $130 well spent

 

Quartz, if only 1 side of your pads are wearing, then that is a sign of your caliper pins not being lubed enough or they are sticking. If you are simply getting excessive wear on one side of the car but not on the other (ie, both front pads should have been worn about the same), then that is a caliper issue. Hopefully this will help make it a bit more clear as to what needs to be done.

The other thing that I would tell you to try is some stuff called "pad glue". I got my last bottle at Advance Auto for like $5 and that 5 ounce bottle will be enough to last longer than I will own vehicles. A little bit applied to the mating surface of the caliper and pads (both outside edge to the caliper and the inside edge where the pad touches the piston) and that will garantee that when the piston backs off of the rotor, the pads will come with it. This is also good in minimizing pad squeal. The big thing is applying the glue and then shortly there after having the caliper in a position that you can apply the brakes and squeeze out all the extra glue from between the pad and caliper. This does 2 things for you. 1) ensures the pad will sit flat and will wear evenly, and 2) maximizes the heat transfer from the pad to the caliper (ensures long/hard braking remains as effective as possible for as long as possible).

 

Thanks Thermo! I will get some pad glue for the new setup.

I believe it is a left side caliper issue of some sort. The inner pad and rotor surface was severely worn compared to the others. The outer pad still looked fairly thick in comparison. The left inner rotor surface looked like melted metal. This new scraping sound seems to be more pronounced on the left side with new rotors & pads...did not scrape with the old rotors & pads, but pedal pulsed and steering wheel shimmied upon braking, hence the new basic parts.

Decided to get the re manufactured calipers just because I'd feel better knowing everything up front is new when it comes to stopping...

EDIT - well, I am a douche bag. I removed, cleaned, and greased the caliper pins and pad ear slots. Everything looks groovy...except for that mysterious looking shallow grove on the left rotor, exactly where that small, thin, metal dust cover at the bottom of the knuckle was rubbing against the rotor. That was most certainly the noise I was hearing...It amazes me how I always seem to complicate things unnecessarily...

 

Quartz, atleast you found the problem and hopefully things are working like they should. We all do things like you just did. Smile, correct them and learn from them. I have a nice list of things like that from my days of repairs.

 

Yeah, I've done some silly things in the past, but like you said, learn from those silly mistakes. I'm actually glad I reinspected and prepped the calipers. Makes me feel better that I did it the way I should have in the first place.

The brakes now work perfectly. No noise, no fade, no drag. Bedded them in and they are good to go. No need for those calipers that are set to arrive tomorrow...

 

Rule of thumb I use is: Inside pad wore in excess it's the piston hanging up.If the outside pad in worn in excess it's the sliders (caliper pins).I ALWAYS open bleeders before I push back the pistons or your pushing burnt and contaminated fluid into the system and will eventually creep up to your master cylinder. Your ABS light will come on but after you pressurize the system and drive about a block or two it will go out. I only use silicone grease in the caliper pins. Regular lithium grease reacts with the heat and turns black and hard.Lithium grease + heat+water+ time=rust and black goo. Use the highest DOT fluid possible but don't mix regular with synthetic type.I gravity bleed each wheel until the fluid is clear keeping the reservior full.Using this method I have never had a recall or failure in ANY vehicle I have serviced. As for the rotors if you don't replace at least deglaze them but put a micrometer on them so there not below spec.. The liability is to high not to do it right, if you have an accident and they find it was a brake problem related, well the lawyers will have a hay day.